2 Weeks Burnin' the AA 130

 
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Flyer5
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Post by Flyer5 » Fri. Oct. 03, 2008 8:06 pm

I am ashing at 3 teeth . Seems to be the sweet spot . Very little ash . I was getting some unburned coal for a couple days after my little fiasco . I let it cool down for a day and ran it hard . I did not have to relight it after 11hrs just flipped the switch . Now just a fine ash in the pan mostly I am running on the timer and low setting on the aquastat that is set for 150 low and 180 high . My anthrastat was calibrated by the AA instructions and I have it set at 130 . I will bump it up for the cold weather . But for the most part the anthrastat is not getting warm enough to shut off the ash cycle . I measure it with a IR gun the most I normally see it at is 120 . Dave

 
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Post by Flyer5 » Fri. Oct. 03, 2008 8:36 pm

cArNaGe wrote:
Flyer5 wrote:The coal I received seems to burn completely to ash . Will keep posted . Dave
Thats the stuff from Beaumont? I hope to get some next week.
Yea, it seems to be nice coal . I have noting to compare to as this is my first running with the AA130 . Recovery seems fast and burns thoroughly. Dave

 
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Post by biggreen1 » Fri. Oct. 03, 2008 11:15 pm

Pete axeman told me usually 2 or 3 teeth will get you where you need to be.

 
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Flyer5
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Post by Flyer5 » Sun. Oct. 05, 2008 9:03 pm

Sad to say I almost cant wait for the colder weather to try this thing out . Maybe just 1 week of cold then it can warm up again . :D
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Post by pret » Sun. Oct. 05, 2008 10:02 pm

+Sure is purdy! I see yours is a '48 model... didn't AA start production in '48?? Or maybe is was '46... anyhooo, mine is a '54 - just as purdy! :D :lol: :D :lol:


 
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Post by Flyer5 » Thu. Oct. 09, 2008 9:02 pm

Actually this one is much newer . I have to say the welds on the older one looked nicer . These still look good but not as nice . I think the steel seemed better on the older one as well . Probably all those recycled tanks and ships back then .I have all the records on this one as well . It was first put into service in 1987 -2001 . Then again in 2008 :D . Dave

 
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Post by mikeandgerry » Sun. Oct. 12, 2008 2:43 am

pret wrote:
mikeandgerry wrote:Only the heaviest loads require three teeth.
Am I to understand that for summertime use, 3 teeth is too much ashing? The heat load on my house is less than half the max BTU output of my AA-130. Two questions: should I adjust the ashing to less or more teeth for summer time use (heating DHW)? Should I adjust the ashing to less or more teeth during the winter? I live in Central Pa, so the winters are not hard like up North.

Also, the ashing temp sensor I have does not have temperature settings, but numbers 1 - maybe 7 or 8... I have it set at 3.5?? I will get the manufacturer of the sensor and report with I get home tonight...

Thanks... Pret
As for the number of teeth, two is most likely the right number unless you are maxing out the capacity of the boiler in which case 3 teeth (or possibly 4) will be required. In my experience, one tooth was possible for my home in the winter which has a requirement of only about 75k btu/h. However, one tooth in the summer was insufficient to build a substantial enough fire for the light load to prevent a fireout on a no load day (like going away for a couple of days). I used 130 degF in the winter and 120degF in the summer for the anthrastat.

As to the 1-8 graduations on an older anthrastat, check with Pete Axeman for translation or get a new anthrastat. I think with my light loads I could fire and forget at two teeth and 130degF. I don't think the difference in coal usage as a result of using those settings would be significant. It is frustrating to have some unburnt coal but I don't think it's worth it to sift it and use it.

The best thing for making your summertime usage more efficient is to increase the load on the unit, i.e. heat your swimming pool along with your DHW! It most likely won't cost you much to heat that load unless you have an olympic-sized pool or the like.

 
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Post by U235a4 » Sun. Oct. 12, 2008 9:41 am

I have a manual from my 1958 260M which covers the 130m also, if you would like a copy since it cover the old style fenwall antrastat let me know.

 
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Post by McGiever » Sat. Dec. 24, 2011 5:29 pm

U235a4 wrote:I have a manual from my 1958 260M which covers the 130m also, if you would like a copy since it cover the old style fenwall antrastat let me know.
Old thread from 2008 8-)
Anybody still have one of these Fenwal Anthra-stats in service?

Just wondering how well they lasted, I have one that will go back into service sometime soon on a 1959 A-A. :)

 
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Post by coalboy » Tue. Dec. 27, 2011 9:29 am

I do,I refurbed a 1949 130 in 08.Calibrated the fenwal and it has been working like a champ ever since.


 
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Post by McGiever » Tue. Dec. 27, 2011 11:31 am

Wow, 1949 and still crank'in on a Fenwal. :!:

The Fenwal Anthrastat appears to be a well made device. They are still available today from Fenwal, but A-A changed to another mfg'r at some point. I don't know, maybe it was a cost savings thing that prompted that change, the Fenwals are not cheap in cost. Besides that the device doesn't have a temperature scale...just 1 thru 7 setting which leaves some guess work as to making adjustments. :?:

Anyhow, I'll calibrate mine to 140* and note some nearby temperature scale marks above and below. :)
Anthrastat.pdf

Fenwal Part

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Post by mozz » Sat. Dec. 03, 2022 1:49 pm

Bringing this thread back from the dead. Does anyone know the model or series of the Fenwal anthrastat? Maybe a picture. I just want to know in case i ever run across one and would keep it for a spare.

 
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Dec. 05, 2022 9:23 am

Curious…no interest in an alternative solid state digital model controller?

 
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Post by mozz » Mon. Dec. 05, 2022 8:43 pm

Yeah i would do that. Give me part numbers and a schematic. I think i have a few solid state relays that switch 30 amps, but the input may be 24-30v. Also would like to know if you were at 140 with the anthrastat what would you be at with the digital? I'm also guessing it reacts a lot faster. I would want it on a tube such as the original. Maybe a stainless tube with the thermocouple inside crimped over at the end.

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