Coalpail.com Forum

I removed some by heating with oxy/acy torch and then spraying with wd-40,and some oil.May take a couple of trys.I would try tapping on it with a hammer too.

Today a friend of mine recieved his brand new Coal Gun S130 boiler. I grabbed the install manual to give it a read before he could. The boiler has two returns, just like my Axeman Anderson. My Axeman manual mentions nothing about how to pipe the returns, but the coal gun manual says..... and I can't quote for copywrite reasons.... it says to put a boiler drain in the return that you do not use for piping.

I stand firm with wide shoulders....I'd leave that bad boy where it's lived for the last 55 some years. I think Mr. Spock from Star Trek would say "It's only logical that 55 yrs of use have proved it does not need balanced flow".

Success! 3.5 hours it took to get that plug out. necessary or not. it gives me a good spot for my draing if nothing else and most likely its going to be return plumbing anyway. heck all that work deserves something. Threads look good! I'm happy...

Thanks guys for all the hints. ended up using a sawzall and hacksaw blade after drilling some holes and removing the center.

Just because something not right, worked for 550 years doesn't make it right

Good job Mark!

Good satisfaction in making steel do what you want. Congrats on getting that bad boy out! I'm proud of you for not bunging up the threads. Now you can use it for the return & plug the other side.

There is very little sediment visible for the bottom of the boiler. Must have been well maintained.

How do you prevent and/or remove sediment from the inside of the boiler?

Thanks,

Dave

Stokerman

I agree I was very pleased to see very little sediment in there. a boiler frmo 1953 has seen is fair share of use. I feel sure. what was there in that shot I got the shop vac and got it out of there. there really wasn't much at all in there though.

thanks!

Freddy. I thought that to myself to about plugging the other side. just as a joke. But I will certainly pipe it according to the EFM manual now. it would be rediculus not too after all that! I think I went thru 2 sawzall blades and a drill bit that'll need a good sharpening.

And not to rant but where the heck can you buy GOOD QUALITY drill bits now a days. so they even exist????

You buy the good stuff from an industrial supply house. Here's the one I have an account at:

http://www.mscdirect.com/

Fair prices and great service.

Mark (PA) wrote:Stokerman

I agree I was very pleased to see very little sediment in there. a boiler frmo 1953 has seen is fair share of use. I feel sure. what was there in that shot I got the shop vac and got it out of there. there really wasn't much at all in there though.

thanks!

Freddy. I thought that to myself to about plugging the other side. just as a joke. But I will certainly pipe it according to the EFM manual now. it would be rediculus not too after all that! I think I went thru 2 sawzall blades and a drill bit that'll need a good sharpening.

And not to rant but where the heck can you buy GOOD QUALITY drill bits now a days. so they even exist????

Hi Mark I wish I would of seen this sooner I could of saved you some time and effort saw blades & bits you do not
have to use both ends for returns that is way most of the boilers have a plug in them you only need one what you could
of did was make a manifold out of black pipe with tees in it for your pumps and at the end put the boiler drain in and
also with a tee on the supply line on top of the boiler you could of pipe it to one of the tees on the manifold to make a
bypass loop with a ball valve on the loop You can also buy a manifold at HD with three hook ups already in plus at the other end screw in a drain The manifold sells for 42.00 1" black pipe with three 3/4" pipes sticking up

Hey Jay

its ok. its done now! Hehe. My house has 1" hot water baseboard. Its industrial stuff. works well! I did look at manifolds etc out of black pipe. I just decided to build a manifold to suite. as I have 2 zones with 1" and 1 zone with 3/4" I do like the manifolds... hopefully mine will turn out OK.

pictures to come probably next week if all goes well.

the boiler looks good!!!! Thanks as always Jay...

Mark (PA) wrote:Stokerman
...

And not to rant but where the heck can you buy GOOD QUALITY drill bits now a days. so they even exist????

Home Depot or your local hardware store will carry Cobalt drill bits, they are acceptable for most work if you are careful. Solid Carbide bits are really good but they are very expensive. HSS cheapo made in China bits are good for nothing, maybe woodworking.

Drilling steel, good bit or not so good bit, the important thing is to turn it at the right speed, with the right amount of pressure and the right amount of lubrication. If using a drill press, I seldom get all three right, and with a hand held drill probably never.

General rule, the smaller the bit, the faster it should spin.

Congrats Mark. Wasn't that a fun little project? Not something I'd like to do again in the near future.

Mark (PA) wrote:Setting up the EFM high boy..

Question on piping to the returns on the bottom rear of the boiler. The one on my boiler is plugged and quite probably has been since installed in 1953. Tried to unplug and it wouldn't Budge... Thus I am left to ask is it OK to continue and only use the one return side on this boiler? instead of teeing and going into both returns? Please let me know! Thanks.

I service many EFM stokers and maybe 1 out of a 100 have the two returns tied together. I have never had any problems with cold shock useing one return. I have already used both returns on multiple zone applications. I have installed stokers teeing both returns together and it was a little trickey hooking them both together, don't forget a union has to go between the returns