New P&R Valve

 
Kungur
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Post by Kungur » Tue. Mar. 26, 2024 8:17 am

The above has started a bit of dripping so I want to replace it. I have the new one as of yesterday. Shut down the stoker last night to let it cool.
So what is the best process for the swap? Obviously turn off the feed but anything else?
Thanks!


 
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nepacoal
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Post by nepacoal » Tue. Mar. 26, 2024 8:59 am

If you have valves to isolate the boiler, shut them and drain enough water so the pressure goes to zero. If not, you'll likely have to drain the entire system or be really, really quick with the swap. It's also a good time to replace hy-vent type air valves if you have one on the boiler unless you use ball valves on the air vents.

 
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Post by Kungur » Tue. Mar. 26, 2024 9:21 am

The valve is on the topside of the boiler so I shouldn't have to drain much.

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Tue. Mar. 26, 2024 9:27 am

You will need to depressurize the boiler and drain off a bit of water to replace the PRV. Before you do that, try to determine why the PRV is leaking. Often it is due to a water logged expansion tank.

Do you have a diaphram style tank, or a steel tank mounted overhead?

 
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Post by Kungur » Tue. Mar. 26, 2024 12:38 pm

I was definitely leaking. But I had to stop because I found I only had a1/2" of Teflon tape! Off to the store!!

 
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Post by Kungur » Tue. Mar. 26, 2024 4:45 pm

Rob, you were right . I think the expansion tank is water logged.
How do I remedy this?

 
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Post by Kungur » Tue. Mar. 26, 2024 5:00 pm

Rob addressed this but thought I'd start a new post to get all the info necessary!
I "thought" it was just the p&r valve. But Rob thought it might be the expansion tank. After tapping on it it is indeed full.
So what is my plan of attack?
Thanks!


 
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Post by lzaharis » Tue. Mar. 26, 2024 6:06 pm

1. boiler off
2. water feed valve off
3. let water cool down for several hours
4. drain off 2 gallons of water
5. carefully remove blown expansion tank using open end wrench if it has wrench flats (it may just spin off by hand)
6. drain the blown expansion and put it in the steel scrap bucket

The next things are up to you if you do not have a ball valve to shut off the water to the old expansion tank.

You need pipe fittings and a ball valve to match up to your air scoops tapping

pipe nipple

ball valve

pipe nipple long enough to let the ball valve handle pass without restriction to shut off the water.

pipe coupler

bladder tank

If you have teflon tape wrap two wraps of tape on the male threads starting one thread back from the end when putting it back together. make sure you wrap the tape in the opposite direction of the threads.

NOW you have to have the correct air pressure in the bladder tank to maintain the point of no pressure change.
The new tank should have a chart for the correct air pressure needed for a multistory home if that is what you have and the instructions supplied in the box will tell you what is needed. If you have an air compressor to fill tires and a tire pressure gauge great otherwise you may need ask a neighbor to help you or visit a gas station for the air needed if the tank is not the correct pressure.

Thread the new tank into the pipe coupler until snug and a 1/4 turn more.

All done.

Open fill valve

Start stoker fire

Start stoker

Have heat

 
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nepacoal
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Post by nepacoal » Tue. Mar. 26, 2024 6:45 pm

What type of expansion tank do you have? Small bladder tank or big steel tank?

 
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Post by Kungur » Tue. Mar. 26, 2024 6:57 pm

It is a Amtrol30 4 gallon.So it appears that once they flood they are shot? If that is the case will order one in the morning.

 
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Post by nepacoal » Tue. Mar. 26, 2024 7:19 pm

Yes, once a bladder type goes bad, it needs to be replaced...

 
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Post by Rob R. » Tue. Mar. 26, 2024 7:35 pm

They should sell a float vent, relief valve, and expansion tank in the same box…typically they all go bad at the same time.

The air pressure in the tank needs to match the static fill pressure of the system. If you ever get the chance, one of these valves makes changing a tank a 5 minute job.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Webstone-41672-1-2-Pr ... in-600-WOG

 
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Post by Kungur » Tue. Mar. 26, 2024 8:30 pm

20240326_202755.jpg
.JPG | 373KB | 20240326_202755.jpg
Here is a pic of my setup

 
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Post by Hambden Bob » Wed. Mar. 27, 2024 6:09 am

My Friend, the most direct answer to Your Dilemma is
"SPEND MONEY"..!! No jokes..!! I think that You've received sound advice between the two seperate Topic Threads that You've got running for both problems..!! You're already shut down and cooling,so go after it..!!
How long can You afford to be down..?? If a while,Supply House.Com has been helpful to many here. Otherwise,start the "Drive & Scrounge Process" in the Cleveland area. Active Plumbing in Painesville,and Cleveland Plumbing just East of Middlefield on SR 87 may be of value in a local search. You may just be back in business by Easter..!! Good Luck,And Good Hunting..!!

 
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Post by lzaharis » Wed. Mar. 27, 2024 10:45 am

Good morning,

If all you want to do right now is change the tank, shut the power off, let the water cool and then close the ball valve next to the bladder tank and use the right size open end wrench to loosen it and have a helper hold a bucket under it while you remove it.

If the new expansion tank is ready to install with the proper pre charge pressure and taped threads you can thread it in slowly in the air scoop casting hand tight and then 1/4 turn more with the open end wrench.

After that is done open the ball valve and then restart the boiler and light the fire.


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