Transition from oil to coal
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- New Member
- Posts: 3
- Joined: Wed. Dec. 02, 2020 1:29 pm
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM DF520
- Other Heating: EFM DF520 coal and oil boiler
I've been at my home for roughly two years now only running my DF520 off oil. I have everything setup to begin using coal however there is a hinged plate on top of the coal basket that is large and will not fold up in order to be remove. Any ideas?
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- Rob R.
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 17977
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
- Location: Chazy, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
Try some penetrating oil on the hinges and a few whacks with a hammer. If that doesn't work try using a torch to heat things up. If all else fails, get a 4.5" grinder with a cutoff wheel and cut the hinges.
- davidmcbeth3
- Member
- Posts: 8505
- Joined: Sun. Jun. 14, 2009 2:31 pm
- Coal Size/Type: nut/pea/anthra
Muratic acid, applied via paint brush in small amounts. Caution: the acid, available at most hardware stores, is mostly HCl acid, very volatile, very hazardous. Small = very small
The acid will eat away rust quickly but it would, if left on in large quantities will dissolve the good metal too. So small applications, going down spine, should free the movement at some point. If all the metal is basically rust, I would guess the pieces would fall apart..then repair should be easy.
Suggest having plenty of paper towels to soak up the solution from the metal parts as best as possible , goggles (not safety glasses but goggles) , nitrile or latex gloves (suggest extra rubber gloves too ... in case one glove failure to to sharp metal pokes), topped garbage can for paper towel disposal (open can will allow HCl into room---topped can, open outside for HCl to release prior to dumping into garbage can).
If not happy using HCl, then vinegar can also be used will less safety concerns (its acetic acid, much weaker than HCl but still will dissolve rust). Vinegar will just take longer. Much longer..but if in no rush vinegar might be a better choice for you. Never went to the hospital for vinegar exposure....have for strong acids (due to equipment failure). Glacial acetic acid would also work faster and be safer than muratic acid but its not available at a hardware store and its much more dangerous than vinegar.
The acid will eat away rust quickly but it would, if left on in large quantities will dissolve the good metal too. So small applications, going down spine, should free the movement at some point. If all the metal is basically rust, I would guess the pieces would fall apart..then repair should be easy.
Suggest having plenty of paper towels to soak up the solution from the metal parts as best as possible , goggles (not safety glasses but goggles) , nitrile or latex gloves (suggest extra rubber gloves too ... in case one glove failure to to sharp metal pokes), topped garbage can for paper towel disposal (open can will allow HCl into room---topped can, open outside for HCl to release prior to dumping into garbage can).
If not happy using HCl, then vinegar can also be used will less safety concerns (its acetic acid, much weaker than HCl but still will dissolve rust). Vinegar will just take longer. Much longer..but if in no rush vinegar might be a better choice for you. Never went to the hospital for vinegar exposure....have for strong acids (due to equipment failure). Glacial acetic acid would also work faster and be safer than muratic acid but its not available at a hardware store and its much more dangerous than vinegar.