Help with my 90,000 btu
Hello everyone I bought a house that came with a 1989 90,000 but keystoker coal stove. When I looked at the house last year the basement where the coal stuff was about 85-90 degrees and the living space was about 80 degrees. I can’t seem to get the basement now hotter than 69 degrees and the living space about 67 and it’s only 40 degrees out side. Can I please have help I also can place my hand on the top of the stove for about 7 seconds before it burns.
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Last edited by mule2701 on Fri. Dec. 02, 2022 10:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
- nepacoal
- Member
- Posts: 1696
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 21, 2012 7:49 am
- Location: Coal Country
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4 / "Kelly" and an EFM 520 at my in-laws
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF-260 - retired
- Coal Size/Type: Buck
Did you complete all the cleaning and maintenance before you fired it up?
1. Stovepipes vacuumed
2. Vacuum under the grates?
3. Clean out burn holes with 1/8" drill bit
4. Vacuum/ brush off fan blades
5. Oil motors
6. Scrape/brush inside stove walls
1. Stovepipes vacuumed
2. Vacuum under the grates?
3. Clean out burn holes with 1/8" drill bit
4. Vacuum/ brush off fan blades
5. Oil motors
6. Scrape/brush inside stove walls
- coalkirk
- Member
- Posts: 5185
- Joined: Wed. May. 17, 2006 8:12 pm
- Location: Forest Hill MD
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1981 EFM DF520 retired
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Jotul 507 on standby
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite/rice coal
Looks like all new vent pipe. You’re going to get flyash buildup in the horizontal pipes at the bottom and top of the vent. Using T’s instead of 90’s would allow you to clean them out. Also looks like a new baro. Was it set with a manometer?
- nepacoal
- Member
- Posts: 1696
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 21, 2012 7:49 am
- Location: Coal Country
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4 / "Kelly" and an EFM 520 at my in-laws
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF-260 - retired
- Coal Size/Type: Buck
Some motors are sealed ball bearing and do not require oiling... Most Keystoker motors need oiling. If they look like attached photo, they'll need a few drops of 20 weight oil once or twice per year. Just 2 or 3 drops... Don't over oil. Those oil ports may be on the bottom (mine are)You should also oil your stoker motor if it has a felt pad... You can saturate the felt pad on it.
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- nepacoal
- Member
- Posts: 1696
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 21, 2012 7:49 am
- Location: Coal Country
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4 / "Kelly" and an EFM 520 at my in-laws
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF-260 - retired
- Coal Size/Type: Buck
Your fire should be straight across. That smiley face shape usually means the grates are rough or the furnace cement is sticking up and also rough. That would cause the coal to slow down along the edges, causing the smiley face. You can sand your grates with sandpaper to smooth it out.
If that fire in the picture is after a 30 minute or longer run, you can turn the white nut on the stoker motor 1.5 to 2 turns clockwise to increase the fire. Wait several hours before readjusting again as it takes a while for coal adjustments to settle out.
If that fire in the picture is after a 30 minute or longer run, you can turn the white nut on the stoker motor 1.5 to 2 turns clockwise to increase the fire. Wait several hours before readjusting again as it takes a while for coal adjustments to settle out.
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- nepacoal
- Member
- Posts: 1696
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 21, 2012 7:49 am
- Location: Coal Country
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4 / "Kelly" and an EFM 520 at my in-laws
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF-260 - retired
- Coal Size/Type: Buck
One more question and I'll shut up... Is the combustion fan blowing in that photo? The flames should be hitting the top of the stove if that fire has been running for more than a few minutes.
Here's mine after 15 minutes or so.
Here's mine after 15 minutes or so.
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Try to answer all the questions lol, I bought a manometer but I can’t find a the metal prob for it. Also the picture of my coals was with the fire running for about 2 hours and my combustion fan is running in that picture and hasn’t turned off yet since the stove has been running. I can turn it off when I get home and maybe reclean everything again but I thought I did a pretty good job.
- nepacoal
- Member
- Posts: 1696
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 21, 2012 7:49 am
- Location: Coal Country
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4 / "Kelly" and an EFM 520 at my in-laws
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF-260 - retired
- Coal Size/Type: Buck
I use a small brass brush to clean my fan blades every fall. Dirt and grime on the leading edge of the fan blades can cut the air by quite a bit. If the combustion fan is making any weird groaning noises when it starts or stops, oil may help.
If your feed is already turned all the way in clockwise, you may have a large rock or piece of coal blocking the feed throat. You'll have to empty the hopper to check that.
If your feed is already turned all the way in clockwise, you may have a large rock or piece of coal blocking the feed throat. You'll have to empty the hopper to check that.
- nepacoal
- Member
- Posts: 1696
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 21, 2012 7:49 am
- Location: Coal Country
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4 / "Kelly" and an EFM 520 at my in-laws
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF-260 - retired
- Coal Size/Type: Buck
That blue 3 in 1 oil is readily available. I got mine at Lowes. Zoom oil is another option and may make oiling the convection fan motor easier. It has an extendable spout but may be a little harder to find local.
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- Member
- Posts: 3756
- Joined: Fri. Aug. 16, 2019 3:02 pm
- Location: Oneida, N.Y.
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harmon Mark II
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: Looking
- Baseburners & Antiques: Looking
- Coal Size/Type: Nut
- Other Heating: newmac wood/coal combo furnace
It's kind of an if then type of scenario. You have to work from the changes you make.