Restored 1959 Axeman 130

StokerDon wrote: ↑

Tue. Nov. 29, 2022 7:17 pm

If I could figure out a good way to insulate the boiler I would do that too. But I don't think I would love looking at it anymore.

-Don

Yeah for real, it's a classic antique, not a modern hipster high efficient tree-savin' heater...
Are you fixing it to the pavers/blocking or do you just have it 'gravity mounted'...

StokerDon wrote: ↑

Tue. Nov. 29, 2022 7:17 pm

If I could figure out a good way to insulate the boiler I would do that too. But I don't think I would love looking at it anymore.

I think that automotive insulation I used on mine turned out ok. I bet you could even do better.

I read somewhere once that Axeman Anderson only sold a few boiler covers since they started building the boilers.

StokerDon wrote: ↑

Tue. Nov. 29, 2022 7:17 pm

If I could figure out a good way to insulate the boiler I would do that too. But I don't think I would love looking at it anymore.

-Don

Such truth as I absolutely love looking at my boiler! As far as insulation, my first modern day boiler was insulated but what confuses me is the temperature is still the same in the boiler room as the insulated model? And the Axeman uses less coal!

StokerDon wrote: ↑

Tue. Nov. 29, 2022 6:35 pm

I'll pretend I didn't hear that...

Well it looks like I didn't get lucky with this leak.

IMG_0060.JPG

I had problems with this solder joint when I first installed it. I'll drain the water out and try to resolder it first.

IMG_0062.JPG

If that don't work I'll cut it out and solder a new piece in.

-Don

I was looking back on the original install post of the AA you just removed and did find it kind of funny that the leak you are battling now is the same one from the last install. From reading the old post I also found out why that radiator bleeder valve was in you 90* fitting in your video that had me scratching my head for a little.

Retro_Origin wrote: ↑

Tue. Nov. 29, 2022 9:09 pm

Are you fixing it to the pavers/blocking or do you just have it 'gravity mounted'..

The piping, the auger and gravity holds it in place plenty good enough.

lincolnmania wrote: ↑

Wed. Nov. 30, 2022 12:42 am

I read somewhere once that Axeman Anderson only sold a few boiler covers since they started building the boilers.

The covers aren't for insulation like on a normal boiler. There more to protect you from all the mechanical bits that can grab you.

Idlorah wrote: ↑

Wed. Nov. 30, 2022 4:59 pm

I was looking back on the original install post of the AA you just removed and did find it kind of funny that the leak you are battling now is the same one from the last install. From reading the old post I also found out why that radiator bleeder valve was in you 90* fitting in your video that had me scratching my head for a little.

Wow, you actually read back that far!
I think Rob pointed out that I shouldn't have put those 2 joints that close together. You can't solder one without melting the other. I think I soldered it 5 times before I got it to stop leaking.

Yah, that radiator bleed valve went in there to plug a defect in that cheap import 90. I didn't have an 1/8" plug, but I had radiator valves, so that's what I used.
It's actually useful to help get air out of the header.

-Don

Leave it and enjoy a warm workshop is my vote. As you tinker with whatever new over engineered thing, you can look at kisss in action.

Well, resoldering that joint for the 6th time didn't make it leak any less.

I don't have any more copper to fix it with so I decided to use up some of my scrap, leftover 1" black iron. Not near as fancy but it will do the job! Its all pressured up again with hot Van Wert water. No leaks so far! Tomorrow will be installing the cyclone cone (before I forget) and putting the fan assemble on. If there's time we'll see what other trouble we can get into.

-Don

Today we did a little paint work on the boiler, installed and sealed the cyclone cone, installed the AHS fan assembly, fan motor, lubed the grate rollers and mounted the controls.

First thing we did was tape up and do some light paint work. Then we installed and sealed the cyclone cone. Then we had to do a little clearance grinding on the AHS fan plate. This one spot was actually being scraped by the cam on the auger. A quick grind and paint and we're good to go. Then onto the grate rollers. I drilled the cotter pin holes out to the next size so the the cotter pins are easier to pull out. Then slathered the heck out of the rollers with anti-seize. Blew the grate off and re-installed it. Put an arrow on the ashing gear indicating where the grate is in its travel. That's it for today!

Here is some "How To" video action!


Next weekend we will probably have it ready to fire up!
-Don

You should paint the auger like a barber pole.

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Sat. Dec. 03, 2022 8:23 pm

You should paint the auger like a barber pole.

Sorry, this one is already painted. You'll have to go look at Lee's if you want to see the spinning barber pole.

The Epoch of the Axeman

Here's the midweek update!

Sunday evening I went over to Jan's place and picked up the auger for this boiler. It turned out that the transfer head didn't fit the mounting holes on this boiler well at all! I had to die grind the transfer head holes by about a half inch. Now it fits. The gearbox is full of 80/90 oil and is mounted along with the auger motor. This time I used a 12 inch long 1/2 pipe nipple to put the ash temp sensor in. Not sure how the sensor will work in the iron pipe but we'll find out soon. Since it is all plumbed in and has hot water running through it, I decided to do an experiment. I put all the doors and covers on, covered the exhaust hole. All the sensors are wired up and the controls are powered.

As you can see, with a boiler temperature of 167 and no fire in the chamber, the ashing temp is 105 degrees! This means that once you set and ashing temp below 110 to 115 degrees, you can end an ashing cycle off the boiler temp alone with no regard to the ash temp.

The only real engineering project left to do is to come up with a better way to mount the 800 RPM motor and 1765:1 gearbox to run the ashing gear. The wooded mount worked fine but was not pretty. Roll the video!


-Don

StokerDon wrote: ↑

Tue. Dec. 06, 2022 7:22 pm

As you can see, with a boiler temperature of 167 and no fire in the chamber, the ashing temp is 105 degrees!

I've noticed that the boiler temperature will influence the ashing sensor.. it's picking up radiation from above. It's also led me to wonder if the ashing sensor should actually be strapped to the bottom of the ash sled, of course their would be a different dynamic for ashing temperature.. Did you seal the iron pipe nipple where the probe wire exits?

Lightning wrote: ↑

Tue. Dec. 06, 2022 9:53 pm

I've noticed that the boiler temperature will influence the ashing sensor.. it's picking up radiation from above. It's also led me to wonder if the ashing sensor should actually be strapped to the bottom of the ash sled, of course their would be a different dynamic for ashing temperature.. Did you seal the iron pipe nipple where the probe wire exits?

Thats a darn good question about temp sensor on the sled. If the probe wire was safe seems like a good place to put it.

Lightning wrote: ↑

Tue. Dec. 06, 2022 9:53 pm

It's also led me to wonder if the ashing sensor should actually be strapped to the bottom of the ash sled,

Heat goes up, not down. And, since the sensor is looking at infrared radiation, it needs to have line of sight to what you want to measure. And, IT'S NOT A SLED, DANG IT! It's a grate.

Lightning wrote: ↑

Tue. Dec. 06, 2022 9:53 pm

Did you seal the iron pipe nipple where the probe wire exits?

I put a cap on it today. It's reading about 4 degrees less now. I don't know how well this black iron is going to work.

We are just about done! This afternoons job was to figure out how to run the ashing gear with a separate motor, like we did on the other Axeman. After a lot of play'in around with different configurations, I ended up bolting the wooden mount we made last year to the front of the base. I used the pillow blocks and shaft from the AHS ashing assembly that I got with all the fans and fan plates. This is WAY more complicated than I had originally intended. 2 more chains and 2 more sprockets than we were running.

It all works just fine though. A quick refresher, we're running an 800 RPM motor into an old Yellow Flame 1765:1 gearbox just like on the last Axeman. The sprocket on the ashing gear is slightly larger so the final drive give us 15.11 Grate Cycles Per Hour.

Here's the black iron cap. I also got some painting done. Fire door and transfer head cover, High Heat Black. Ash door, Shiny Black. Not much left to do except put the stove pipe on. Should be ready to fire tomorrow!

Roll the video Son!


-Don