Back at it again

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RON1958
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Location: Port Matilda, Pa. Area (Stormstown)
Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert 600
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Coal Size/Type: chestnut , buck

Post by RON1958 » Mon. May. 02, 2022 9:39 pm

Well after a couple months of dealing with life's crap I'm back to installing the 600. I pressure tested and have it in place where she will live, gonna paint tomorrow. The pex has arrived along with conduit. Need to bust some concrete floor and dig ditch so I can plant grass. Gonna work on a flue throughout the summer. I was wondering if someone would have a pic or diagram showing how to plumb the boiler for two pump system. I can plumb I just don't know what goes where. I looked through a ton of pics on here but couldn't find anything. I will say some of you are artist amazing work. The Van Wert manual has a suggested plumbing diagram and I understand it. Its for single pump and I'm not sure how to add the second? Enough rambling, If anyone could show the way it would be great.


 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. May. 02, 2022 9:43 pm

Welcome back.

You have two zones in the house and want a separate pump for each?

 
RON1958
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Joined: Sun. Jan. 23, 2022 9:34 am
Location: Port Matilda, Pa. Area (Stormstown)
Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert 600
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 30-95
Coal Size/Type: chestnut , buck

Post by RON1958 » Tue. May. 03, 2022 7:50 am

Hi Rob. I put the 600 inside a section of my shop. It can radiate heat in that area and I will run short lines through the wall to a hanging heater from one pump. Then have the second pump to run water up to house approx. 120ft.

 
lzaharis
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Post by lzaharis » Tue. May. 03, 2022 10:49 am

Hello Ron,

To help you with this you can purchase a copy of "PUMPING AWAY" from amazon to show you how to plumb up your VA600.

You need black iron pipe for the close boiler plumbing to reduce any chance of leaks to near zero percent.

You need to plumb in two header pipes the same size as the sump drain of the VA 600 to keep the flow as simple as possible to deliver hot water to the two zones with the least trouble and the cooler return water from both zones to the boiler sump.

The header pipe plumbed into the circulator using isolation valves is used to feed hot water pumping away from the stoker to the two heating loads to heat the two zones separately.

The return sump header pipe returns the two cooler water return lines to the sump of the boiler to be reheated.

NOW to make things very simple to use and manage you can do the following for plumbing the two loops; Use only one circulator to feed each zone with boiler bypass/flow regulating valves.

The most hot water flow you want to feed both zones is 6 gallons per minute in total being 3 gallons per minute to each zone if the zone piping is 3/4" copper.

You can use two boiler bypass valves set and locked to deliver three gallons per minute to each zone with the overflow returning to the boiler sump in a loopof black iron pipe to the stoker boilers sump.

If you use 1" black iron pipe for the header pipes you can use a single 8 gallon per minute circulator to feed the two zones using 2 zone valves and 2 boiler bypass valves and at the same time returning 2 gallons per minute to the boiler sump in a loop pipe to keep the plumbing as simple as possible and trouble free.

If you are going to use the shop as the dump zone for excess heat the garage heater will make that even simpler as the control for the dump zone is wired to the garage heater loop.

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Wed. May. 04, 2022 7:21 am

RON1958 wrote:
Tue. May. 03, 2022 7:50 am
Hi Rob. I put the 600 inside a section of my shop. It can radiate heat in that area and I will run short lines through the wall to a hanging heater from one pump. Then have the second pump to run water up to house approx. 120ft.
Ok, that is simple enough. If you plan to circulate water to the house all of the time, you don't need the bypass loop shown in the diagram. Is there another boiler in your house?

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Wed. May. 04, 2022 7:22 am

lzaharis wrote:
Tue. May. 03, 2022 10:49 am

You need black iron pipe for the close boiler plumbing to reduce any chance of leaks to near zero percent.
Copper works fine as well.

 
RON1958
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Location: Port Matilda, Pa. Area (Stormstown)
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Post by RON1958 » Wed. May. 04, 2022 8:15 am

No other boiler in the house. Will be connecting 600 to the heat exchanger on oil/air furnace. The wood boiler up there will be disconnected and the 600 replacing it. Now that I think about it that boiler pump run constantly to supply water. Can I keep it that way for there and as for the heater in the shop as well?


 
lzaharis
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Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Wed. May. 04, 2022 9:38 am

RON1958 wrote:
Wed. May. 04, 2022 8:15 am
No other boiler in the house. Will be connecting 600 to the heat exchanger on oil/air furnace.
The wood boiler up there will be disconnected and the 600 replacing it.
Now that I think about it that boiler pump run constantly to supply water.
Can I keep it that way for there and as for the heater in the shop as well?
=======================================================================================================

There is no reason you cannot do this as long as the plumbing and wiring is done correctly.
Do you have room to hang a steel compression tank in the ceiling to provide the point of
no pressure change for your circulator??

Purchase a copy of PUMPING AWAY and or CLASSIC HYDRONICS to help you design and
install your near boiler plumbing correctly.

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Wed. May. 04, 2022 9:46 am

You’re going to love not being a slave to to that wood boiler!!!

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Wed. May. 04, 2022 9:55 am

RON1958 wrote:
Wed. May. 04, 2022 8:15 am
No other boiler in the house. Will be connecting 600 to the heat exchanger on oil/air furnace. The wood boiler up there will be disconnected and the 600 replacing it. Now that I think about it that boiler pump run constantly to supply water. Can I keep it that way for there and as for the heater in the shop as well?
This can be a very simple install. You can actually do this with a single circulator. You would have constant circulation to the furnace in the house, and also through your hanging heater. Use a line voltage thermostat to turn the fan on in the hanging heater.

 
RON1958
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Coal Size/Type: chestnut , buck

Post by RON1958 » Wed. May. 04, 2022 3:15 pm

Nice. To do this with one pump what pump would be recommended ?

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Wed. May. 04, 2022 3:17 pm

What size is your pex going to the house?

120’ one way?

 
RON1958
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Location: Port Matilda, Pa. Area (Stormstown)
Stoker Coal Boiler: Van Wert 600
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 30-95
Coal Size/Type: chestnut , buck

Post by RON1958 » Wed. May. 04, 2022 3:25 pm

I'm using one inch.

 
RON1958
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Location: Port Matilda, Pa. Area (Stormstown)
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Coal Size/Type: chestnut , buck

Post by RON1958 » Wed. May. 04, 2022 3:32 pm

Also on the Anthratherm manual piping layout it shows a flow control valve, Is that needed?

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Wed. May. 04, 2022 3:53 pm

RON1958 wrote:
Wed. May. 04, 2022 3:25 pm
I'm using one inch.
A Grundfos 15-58 on high speed should give you about 6 gallons per minute through that 1" pex. You will have to decide if that is enough to heat your house.

Realistically you can't put more than 8 gpm through that pex anyway, and even that would require a pump that costs 3x as much (like a Taco 011).


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