Where to mount

MINO · Post by **MINO** » Fri. Apr. 29, 2022 11:41 am

After experimenting and hooking up a manometer which truly pressurizes the chimney for 30-40 seconds and spews out some co2 out the damper until it starts pulling draft (after heat cycle it’s .2) so chimney drafts when heated and during long duration of a heat cycle so other than extending chimney I bought a draft inducer to wire to the combustion motor on startup and shutdown as to the chimney performs as it’s supposed to except on startup…..where would you mount the inducer in reference to the baro? I know the inducer with go close to the chimney…. Top pic drawing or bottom pic drawing…. I e exhausted all avenues I tried to plug the damper but it was windy yesterday and it was keeping the flapper sucked shut on heavy wind gusts and over firing the boiler…..

Post by **Rob R.** » Fri. Apr. 29, 2022 11:56 am

Personally I would have removed the baro before spending money on an inducer. With your short chimney you may never have issues with temperature over-shoots due to excessive draft.

If you want to install the inducer anyway, it needs to be mounted between the baro and the chimney, otherwise you will have the same problem (it will push gasses out of the flue). I don't think it matters which side of the pipe the baro is on, the way you have it now seems fine to me.

MINO · Post by **MINO** » Fri. Apr. 29, 2022 12:03 pm

Rob R. wrote: ↑
Fri. Apr. 29, 2022 11:56 am
Personally I would have removed the baro before spending money on an inducer. With your short chimney you may never have issues with temperature over-shoots due to excessive draft.

If you want to install the inducer anyway, it needs to be mounted between the baro and the chimney, otherwise you will have the same problem (it will push gasses out of the flue). I don't think it matters which side of the pipe the baro is on, the way you have it now seems fine to me.

I did that... I plugged it solid and I still had draft pulling the flap on the boiler shut when wind gusts came... naturally it would release after but it was then pulling the air thru the firebed than over the firebed .... with damper in it was not doing this.....

Post by **Lightning** » Fri. Apr. 29, 2022 3:43 pm

In my humble opinion, I'd skip the draft inducer. I'm not certain it will prevent the positive pressure upon start up or not. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to try. I think a better solution would be to just keep a couple CO alarms in the immediate vicinity of the boiler to see if leakage is that much of a problem. You might find that it's not.

Maybe it's even possible to do away with the baro and seal the entire stove pipe so it can't leak, like Rob suggested. Maybe the draft break plate could be adjusted so that it isn't so easily pulled shut by wind pressure.

Some things to consider about the inducer.. Would it be wired to come on with the combustion fan? Or would it run 24/7? Don't forget it will add to your electric bill.. If it does run 24/7 it will be pulling heated room air out of the building thru the baro, so that will add to the coal bill too.

Oh ok, I reread and see that you want to wire it to the combustion fan..

Which draft inducer did you get? I tried an AD-1 (If I recall correctly) on my hand fed years ago and wasn't very pleased with it..

MINO · Post by **MINO** » Fri. Apr. 29, 2022 8:54 pm

Well it ain’t to pretty with the high temp silicone but it works I can hide the sins with black tape I kind of hurried thru it to see if it works and alas it does yes combustion fires the inducer just have to wire it a little cleaner I just have it pig tailed for now I have my turkey fryer probe drilled in pipe and a hard run I’m around 275 I was worried about the heat on the unit even tho it’s rated much higher ….. it definitely don’t need a 10 second head start before unit fires it’s much more improved like I said before at idle chimney is fine even in crazy wind it doesn’t back draft but it seems to be the fix …. Only thing that sucks like everything else it’s another unit mechanical part I will have to stock on the shelf and hopefully never have to use ….. because when I need it it will be -5

MINO · Post by **MINO** » Fri. Apr. 29, 2022 9:03 pm

Lightning wrote: ↑
Fri. Apr. 29, 2022 3:43 pm
In my humble opinion, I'd skip the draft inducer. I'm not certain it will prevent the positive pressure upon start up or not. I suppose it wouldn't hurt to try. I think a better solution would be to just keep a couple CO alarms in the immediate vicinity of the boiler to see if leakage is that much of a problem. You might find that it's not.

Maybe it's even possible to do away with the baro and seal the entire stove pipe so it can't leak, like Rob suggested. Maybe the draft break plate could be adjusted so that it isn't so easily pulled shut by wind pressure.

Some things to consider about the inducer.. Would it be wired to come on with the combustion fan? Or would it run 24/7? Don't forget it will add to your electric bill.. If it does run 24/7 it will be pulling heated room air out of the building thru the baro, so that will add to the coal bill too.

Oh ok, I reread and see that you want to wire it to the combustion fan..

Which draft inducer did you get? I tried an AD-1 (If I recall correctly) on my hand fed years ago and wasn't very pleased with it..

it’s a D3 tjernlund

Post by **Rob R.** » Sat. Apr. 30, 2022 10:37 am

MINO wrote: ↑
Fri. Apr. 29, 2022 12:03 pm
I did that... I plugged it solid and I still had draft pulling the flap on the boiler shut when wind gusts came... naturally it would release after but it was then pulling the air thru the firebed than over the firebed .... with damper in it was not doing this.....

Did it make the boiler get hot? That 260 has a lot of mass, I doubt an occasional wind gust would make it overheat but I guess it is possible. I would have hooked up a dump zone before trying a draft inducer.

MINO · Post by **MINO** » Sat. Apr. 30, 2022 10:58 am

Rob R. wrote: ↑
Sat. Apr. 30, 2022 10:37 am
Did it make the boiler get hot? That 260 has a lot of mass, I doubt an occasional wind gust would make it overheat but I guess it is possible. I would have hooked up a dump zone before trying a draft inducer.

I would imagine it would of overheat at some point due to the flap getting sucked shut longer than it was open I could have played with the spring a bit more..I don’t have a dump zone yet…. It’s a constant circulation loop…. I’m running 170 for now and it seems to be working very well at that temperature… I would have loved to solve the problem without the inducer due to it now being a part that can fail….

Post by **Lightning** » Sun. May. 01, 2022 6:18 pm

What kind of tape did you use to seal your pipes up with? I haven't seen black before..

MINO · Post by **MINO** » Sun. May. 01, 2022 8:07 pm

Amazon … I didn’t know it came in black until I searched… just don’t ask me to caulk your tub surround … lol

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Sun. May. 01, 2022 11:03 pm

Would not the tape worked alone for sealing the joints?

Where to mount

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