Stack pipe on coal gun

Question 2 of the day tore out a keystoker k6 and upgraded to a s260 chimney never had a problem at all with drafting after the install of the coal gun it seems like my chimney is pressurized when combustion fan is running I’m getting hints of sulfur co detector didn’t chime at all due to garage doors open and windows …. Also this is the first time using the heavy black smoke pipe and seems like there are joints that swivel so I sealed them with the high temp tape after seeing fly ash by the joins stoker is only lit cpl hours into the day on a new install….. I guess a manometer is in order….I don’t know what it is pulling…. Also do I have to do what the “Axe man’s do with the chimney” drive the pipe halfway thru the other tee of the dampener? If I have to get the thinner stack pipe I will but figured go heavier to help with longevity…… glad I waited until after the winter for this

What do you have for a chimney?

Chances are that it will draft better in cold weather. Those sharp 90° turns in the stove pipe aren't helping, especially on combustion fan startup.

Inertia of the gases in the whole exhaust system cause the temporary positive pressure on startup. My Axeman will go positive pressure in warm weather just briefly until the gases gets moving.

As far as the baro is concerned, getting half way past the damper with a pipe inside the tee is probably a best case scenario, I haven't tried it yet.

I was just trying to copy off of what AHS has in their manual as to piping… but chimney is mason block and 6 inch flu … probably about 15 ft higher than where the stove pipe is located in the wall total height is 20 it’s about 6ft below where pipe enters wall…. It was put up in 2009 when garage was built… I can handle an efm 520 I have one now … keystoker k6 just took out and upgraded to a whole new unit to do all…. Still trying to wrap my head around the control settings … I shut it down to sit the night until I solve the timing of the ash I started at factory setpoints and seemed like the fire was getting close to where fresh coal enters the chamber…. I did put almost 3/4 tub of ash down when I started it from my 520 …

Lightning wrote: ↑

Sat. Apr. 23, 2022 3:30 pm

What do you have for a chimney?

Chances are that it will draft better in cold weather. Those sharp 90° turns in the stove pipe aren't helping, especially on combustion fan startup.

Inertia of the gases in the whole exhaust system cause the temporary positive pressure on startup. My Axeman will go positive pressure in warm weather just briefly until the gases gets moving.

As far as the baro is concerned, getting half way past the damper with a pipe inside the tee is probably a best case scenario, I haven't tried it yet.

ditto. also my ahs 260 only pulls .02 draft at idle, on warm days chimmeny pulls less till heat up.

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Sat. Apr. 23, 2022 7:53 pm

Those two tee's are adding a lot of resistance to the flue gasses. I understand why you did it that way, but with a cold chimney that might make the difference between some gasses leaking into the room, or not.

I believe the recommendation for the baro is to mount it on 7" pipe, and reduce down to 6", with the 6" pipe entering to the center of the baro.

Thanks for the input!

Jkohanski wrote: ↑

Sat. Apr. 23, 2022 8:18 pm

ditto. also my ahs 260 only pulls .02 draft at idle, on warm days chimmeny pulls less till heat up.

Check your PM’s I sent you one earlier in the day….

Just wondering, besides the 2 visible clean out tees and a 90* turn up at thimble, is there also chimney cap up top? All those turns add up and by equivalents reduces your 6” to a smaller diameter number…

As was said, with well heated up chimney it will bump up the draft some higher at that point.

Re piped it this way and seems to be doing much better … still might have to slip a pipe behind damper half way like the axeman….. getting a bit of fly ash build up on the baro but it only seems to do it on startup….. 2 problems solved by forum members so far…. This ahs is a new beast for me to master….. manometer is ordered from Amazon should be here in 2 days to really see what’s going on

Oh hell yeah.. that's much easier pathway for the exhaust stream. Nice work!

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Sun. Apr. 24, 2022 3:15 pm

That looks a lot better. I bet you can remove the baro and screw a cut piece of pipe in there to act as a baffle to direct the flue gasses past the baro (same effect as having the pipe slid halfway past the baro).

Exactly what plan on doing….. lol

Lightning wrote: ↑

Sun. Apr. 24, 2022 4:14 pm

Oh hell yeah.. that's much easier pathway for the exhaust stream. Nice work!

I planned on doing it this way from the get go then I made a mistake by reading the instructions !!! I tried piping like manual showed

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Sun. Apr. 24, 2022 3:15 pm

That looks a lot better. I bet you can remove the baro and screw a cut piece of pipe in there to act as a baffle to direct the flue gasses past the baro (same effect as having the pipe slid halfway past the baro).

I ended up doing that ….pictures are tough to see but I sealed up all the joints and put a piece of pipe on the inside with cpl zip screws and sealed off with high temp silicone and on startup I get some shove still out of the damper…. After about legit 5 seconds it starts pulling draft…. Pics are hard to tell but I do have about an inch or better of clearance and it is windy and the baro is doing it’s job after shutdown…. I will have to get the manometer hooked up to see exactly what’s going on… and of course it’s on delay thru amazon…. But hard parts are done it’s just fine tuning the small stuff….

looks good