Stack pipe on coal gun

 
MINO
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Post by MINO » Sun. May. 01, 2022 2:26 pm

lzaharis wrote:
Sun. May. 01, 2022 11:04 am
Hello MINO,

A chimney extension with a rain cap would help you a lot.

I have high winds where I am located and I have had one on my 8 by 12 block/clay tile lined chimney for over 7 years now and it has been a tremendous help when dealing with high winds, stopping downdrafts and keeping the rain out.

The 34 inch chimney extension I purchased from Rockford Chimney Supply has a stainless steel base that is screwed into the concrete chimney cap using concrete TEK screws.

The 34 inch Chimney extension is hinged and the locking pin can be removed and the extension laid on its side to clean the chimney it is mounted on. You would need a precast concrete chimney cap to mount it. They also have models that attach to the clay liner with a clamp but with high wind speeds I do not think it is a model you would want to use. I have not had any problem with mine as my chimney extension which has the crown mount screwed to a precast chimney cap.

rockford-chimney-supply-extenda-flue-flat.jpg

It is supplied with the 3/4 inch mesh and costs $332.99 the 5/8 inch mesh is $20.00 more. sales tax and freight are not included in the purchase price.

The bolt on type has the crown mount and is $99.00 more so you would need a precast chimney cap and 2 of the small bags of mortar mix from Lowes to secure it to your chimney.

The little bags of mortar mix I bought from Lowes 2 years ago to mud in the new cleanout door I bought from Rockford Chimney Supply were in a small heavy wall plastic bag that you also used to mix the mortar in after pouring water in the bag and sealing the bag with the zip closure they also gave you a heavy thick spatula to use with it to spread the mortar at no extra charge and you would need two of them to properly mud in the precast concrete chimney cap.
Thanks for the information….

 
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nepacoal
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Post by nepacoal » Sun. May. 01, 2022 6:01 pm

swyman wrote:
Sun. May. 01, 2022 10:19 am
Please do, that would be very beneficial to a few of us that need to put them in!
Not a video, but this method works great for installing new barometric dampers...

1. Bolt the baro frame on the stovepipe.
2. Draw line around inside of frame. (I use silver marker to see it better).
3. Remove frame and draw a second line 1/2" to 3/4" inside existing line. The two sides will be squared off so it looks like a birds mouth shape...
4. Cut inside line using a jigsaw, then cut 1/2" tabs from the inside line to the outside line using tin snips (don't go all the way to the outside line, leave a little so the tabs can bend up inside frame). Prebend tabs slightly. Re-mount frame, bend tabs up against baro frame with small gas pliers.
5. Probably not needed, but I use black RTV to seal the baro frame to the stovepipe.
Last edited by nepacoal on Sun. May. 01, 2022 6:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. May. 01, 2022 6:12 pm

nepacoal wrote:
Sun. May. 01, 2022 6:01 pm
Not a video, but this method works great for installing new barometric dampers...

1. Bolt the baro frame on the stovepipe.
2. Draw line around inside of frame. (I use silver marker to see it better).
3. Remove frame and draw a second line 1/2" to 3/4" inside existing line. The two sides will be squared off so it looks like a birds mouth shape...
4. Cut inside line using a jigsaw, then cut 1/2" tabs from the inside line to the outside line using tin snips (don't go all the way to the outside line, leave a little so the tabs can bend up inside). Prebend tabs slightly. Re-mount frame, bend tabs up against frame with small gas pliers.
5. Probably not needed, but I use black RTV to seal the baro frame to the stovepipe.
That is exactly how I did mine, minus the RTV.


 
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McGiever
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Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Sun. May. 01, 2022 11:13 pm

nepacoal wrote:
Sun. May. 01, 2022 6:01 pm
Not a video, but this method works great for installing new barometric dampers...

1. Bolt the baro frame on the stovepipe.
2. Draw line around inside of frame. (I use silver marker to see it better).
3. Remove frame and draw a second line 1/2" to 3/4" inside existing line. The two sides will be squared off so it looks like a birds mouth shape...
4. Cut inside line using a jigsaw, then cut 1/2" tabs from the inside line to the outside line using tin snips (don't go all the way to the outside line, leave a little so the tabs can bend up inside frame). Prebend tabs slightly. Re-mount frame, bend tabs up against baro frame with small gas pliers.
5. Probably not needed, but I use black RTV to seal the baro frame to the stovepipe.
Perfect 👍

Now quit using a stove pipe tee fitting to mount a baro in. Buy the Fields Baro with the collar piece. Cut it in and eliminate 2 extra crimp joints.
BTW: Fields Type M kit with longer collar piece and baro will fit 2-3 different stove pipe diameters…like 6, 7 and 8 or something.

 
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swyman
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Post by swyman » Mon. May. 02, 2022 7:19 am

nepacoal wrote:
Sun. May. 01, 2022 6:01 pm
Not a video, but this method works great for installing new barometric dampers...

1. Bolt the baro frame on the stovepipe.
2. Draw line around inside of frame. (I use silver marker to see it better).
3. Remove frame and draw a second line 1/2" to 3/4" inside existing line. The two sides will be squared off so it looks like a birds mouth shape...
4. Cut inside line using a jigsaw, then cut 1/2" tabs from the inside line to the outside line using tin snips (don't go all the way to the outside line, leave a little so the tabs can bend up inside frame). Prebend tabs slightly. Re-mount frame, bend tabs up against baro frame with small gas pliers.
5. Probably not needed, but I use black RTV to seal the baro frame to the stovepipe.
Thank you for this info! So in doing this method you don't need that inside diverter to go past the halfway point to eliminate a puff of fly ash on startup?

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. May. 02, 2022 7:37 am

MINO wrote:
Tue. Apr. 26, 2022 9:18 pm
Even made sure when I relocated chimney thimble/croc “keystoker “ was piped lower I made sure not to cement it in deep
What size is the flue in your chimney?


 
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nepacoal
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Coal Size/Type: Buck

Post by nepacoal » Mon. May. 02, 2022 10:20 am

swyman wrote:
Mon. May. 02, 2022 7:19 am
Thank you for this info! So in doing this method you don't need that inside diverter to go past the halfway point to eliminate a puff of fly ash on startup?
No, you'll still need to do the AHS/AA diverter thingamajig to prevent the initial puff. This was just for the baro itself.

 
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McGiever
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Mon. May. 02, 2022 1:51 pm

Rob R. wrote:
Mon. May. 02, 2022 7:37 am
What size is the flue in your chimney?
He stated on page 1 that it is 6” in masonry.

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. May. 02, 2022 2:56 pm

McGiever wrote:
Mon. May. 02, 2022 1:51 pm
He stated on page 1 that it is 6” in masonry.
Thank you. Unfortunately AHS does not list a recommendation for the liner size in their manual (at least not that I saw), but I am thinking 6" is on the small side.

For comparison, Axeman Anderson recommends a 12x12" flue 15' high for their 260.

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