I feel stupid.

Thanks Chad. That small aquastat is for a dump zone. When the boiler reaches the temperature on the dial of that aquastat, it will start the circulator just like you turned up the thermostat. Don's suggestion is spot-on, set that small aquastat to 210.

Chad520 wrote: ↑

Sun. Dec. 12, 2021 5:58 pm

I bought my house from my grandparents about 7 years ago and this thing has pretty much run itself... Suddenly... I'm baffled by the fires going out. I've even used it for hot water through a couple of summers. Now I can't keep a fire in winter going. I've gotta get this figured out.

Some coal is a lot more forgiving on the timer cycle. You may have just been lucky for the last 7 years. Have you cleaned the boiler and flue pipe annually since you moved in?

There are 2 things that cause a stoker like yours to go out.

1. Lack of coal.
2. Lack of air through the coal.

Lack of coal can be caused by a feed obstruction, incorrect feed setting, or by insufficient run time of the stoker.
Lack of air through the coal can be caused by bad draft, air leaks, an incorrect air setting, or insufficient run time of the stoker.

The settings recommended by EFM are time tested and work well in most situations. 2 minutes every half hour on the timer will usually run the stoker enough to keep a reliable fire without making the boiler get too hot. The reason for the 200 degree high limit setting is so that you don't "skip" timer cycles. The timer cannot operate the stoker if the boiler temperature is over the high limit setting on the aquastat.

The low limit setting of 160 does a few things - the big one is it prevents you from getting a cold shower, but the other is in the event the timer alone does not keep a lively fire and the boiler cools off - the low limit will make the stoker run for 15 minutes or so to get the boiler back to 160. This will also reestablish a nice fire in the stoker.

Right now you have a high limit that is likely causing skipped timer cycles, a low limit that is too low to produce hot water reliably, and the stoker likely has too high of an air settings for the amount of coal you are feeding. Assuming there are no other issues if you make the adjustments outlined above you should be good.

Thought I posted earlier - must be in cyberspace.
Any way, check for air leakage
Fire door gasket, ash door gasket and seal between boiler top and base.
These are cheap and easy to fix and check.
If you're loosing air thru any of these you will have outfire issues

Did everything you guys suggested above (THANK YOU!) As of now I've got a great fire still going from last night. Actually, the best looking one I've had all year. I do think I had too much air and I have no idea why my aquastat settings were the way they were. Only thing I can't do is your suggestion to run the small AS at 210 as the max is 200 on it. Should that be good?

200 is fine for the dump aquastat.

Chad520 wrote: ↑

Mon. Dec. 13, 2021 3:48 pm

Only thing I can't do is your suggestion to run the small AS at 210 as the max is 200 on it. Should that be good?

You should be able to bend or snip off that tab on the dial and set it at 210. If not, leave it at 200 and see how it goes.

Generally you want at least 10 degrees between the operating limit, and the dump zone setpoint. A dump zone is not really needed at all with your boiler, but unless you are ready to do some wiring it seems best to leave it.

Where did you end up for feed and air settings?

Chad520 wrote: ↑

Mon. Dec. 13, 2021 3:48 pm

As of now I've got a great fire still going from last night.

That's great news, good job Chad!

If the fire is staying lit and the house is warm you are well on your way to recovery and a normal life.

I read through this some more and it sounds like those crazy aquastat settings we like that when you go the house?

-Don

Is the L6006 being used as a safety shut off?

Holdencoal wrote: ↑

Mon. Dec. 13, 2021 8:51 pm

Is the L6006 being used as a safety shut off?

No. It is wired to the TT contacts on the L8124.

Ok, I can barely see the double wires from the pictures.

Retro_Origin wrote: ↑

Sun. Dec. 12, 2021 7:47 pm

I've never seen a recommendation for anything lower than 160 for the low.

I'ved used 160/140 in the summer on a Van Wert without any regular issue but that has a draft setting on it.

Richard S. wrote: ↑

Mon. Dec. 13, 2021 11:49 pm

I'ved used 160/140 in the summer on a Van Wert without any regular issue but that has a draft setting on it.

The stoker in your 1200 is pretty large compared to this EFM. I don't think Van Wert even recommended a timer for the 1200 and larger units.

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Tue. Dec. 14, 2021 7:14 am

The stoker in your 1200 is pretty large compared to this EFM. I don't think Van Wert even recommended a timer for the 1200 and larger units.

It has gone out on occasion during summer operation but I can count on two hand how many times over 30+ years. We used the same settings on smaller Van Wert my Uncle owned and that had tendency to go out more often especially during the shoulder seasons but that happened regardless of aquastat settings.

In any event you can try and see if it works well enough for EFM.

Richard S. wrote: ↑

Mon. Dec. 13, 2021 11:49 pm

I'ved used 160/140 in the summer on a Van Wert without any regular issue but that has a draft setting on it.

Did you use significantly less coal than if you were going with 180/160? Since your domestic was probably between 120 and 140 anyway that seems like the preferable range! Wish I could have gotten it to work! Don't some people run theirs 180/200? Would that be more for cast iron radiators or something that has a large volume of water to prevent drastic boiler temp drop when circulation begins?

add , ..... use dry coal when adding to your hopper . and , clean out old , built-up fines in the bottom of your hopper.