Thermostat Cycle Rate for Steady Room Temperature
- Lightning
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 14669
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
- Location: Olean, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
- Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite
Oh that's Bonez, our Great Dane. He's a gentle giant lol. He does move a lot of air when he's panting. The worst is the tail though.. Our grand daughter is just at the right height that she gets slapped upside the head when we come home and he's happy to see us
- CoalisCoolxWarm
- Member
- Posts: 2323
- Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
- Location: Western PA
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
- Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
- Other Heating: Oil Boiler
What I am planning to do some day on the concrete slab is:
2 layers of 1" xps foam, staggering and taping the joints, then following this site's example.
https://ibuildit.ca/projects/installing-and-finis ... -flooring/
https://youtu.be/Dxmx7qxR-nk
2 layers of 1" xps foam, staggering and taping the joints, then following this site's example.
https://ibuildit.ca/projects/installing-and-finis ... -flooring/
https://youtu.be/Dxmx7qxR-nk
- McGiever
- Member
- Posts: 10130
- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
We do know that Plywood bleeds temperatures well enough that the PEX below plywood will readily warm the space above it.
- McGiever
- Member
- Posts: 10130
- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
This is NOT to suggest radiant in this situation but rather that the plywood has near nill insulation to heat movement as plywood does allow for radiant installation from a basement below.
- Lightning
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 14669
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 16, 2011 9:51 am
- Location: Olean, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: Modified AA 130
- Coal Size/Type: Pea Size - Anthracite
My IR gun went missing or I'd hit the floor with it to see how cold the floor is.. I can tell you though that's its not terrible on bare feet.
- McGiever
- Member
- Posts: 10130
- Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
- Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
Oh plywood has a “R” value so we know it slows the heat movement.
- hotblast1357
- Member
- Posts: 5661
- Joined: Mon. Mar. 10, 2014 10:06 pm
- Location: Peasleeville NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
- Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace
I don’t want to hijack the thread… but I’ve been reading of a lot of people that are not insulating there slabs, or only insulating around the edge, maybe a 4’ sheet wide… now idk about this… but at over $40/sheet I do wonder what your saving… and it would most certainly matter what type of ground your on, I would absolutely not do it on a clay and or wet area, but on a good high centered gravel that doesn’t have any moisture, maybe…?
Only reason im into this is im in the early planning of my garage/shop and it’s a huge thought, I am on straight gravel, absolutely no moisture in the ground, I’m looking at around $3500 for 2” board with current prices.. it’s making me strongly consider a modine, and is probably the biggest hang up on actually starting the project.
- Rob R.
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 18004
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
- Location: Chazy, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
You are correct that the radiant insulation is more important around the perimeter, but I would not skip it in the center. Ideally the slab and frost wall would be insulated even if you were using a Modine heater. The under-slab insulation is something you only get to do once, and it pays you back every day. I went through the same evaluation with our addition and decided to listen to the engineer's recommendation, which I have attached. It takes practically nothing to heat the new structure.
Attachments
- hotblast1357
- Member
- Posts: 5661
- Joined: Mon. Mar. 10, 2014 10:06 pm
- Location: Peasleeville NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
- Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
- Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace
I’m considering a monolithic, I can completely understand an addition or something, but talking myself into this is hard lol but I don’t want to regret it, it is just a garage, but at 40x60x16 I do also want to insulate best I can, but I also don’t want to build something better than my house.. lol
With the drawing you displayed, I’m supposed there’s no insulation between the wall and side of slab, usually there is.. in that illustration your actually sending heat into the ground via the slab to wall contact and no insulation on the inside of the footer wall, or no insulation in between the slab and footer wall, your sending heat up into the stud walls.
I am considering ICF forms if I do a footer wall then insulation under slab, in a perfect world with no option to money.
Also another worry I’ve always had, a week long cold snap power outage or circulator or fan malfunction…
With the drawing you displayed, I’m supposed there’s no insulation between the wall and side of slab, usually there is.. in that illustration your actually sending heat into the ground via the slab to wall contact and no insulation on the inside of the footer wall, or no insulation in between the slab and footer wall, your sending heat up into the stud walls.
I am considering ICF forms if I do a footer wall then insulation under slab, in a perfect world with no option to money.
Also another worry I’ve always had, a week long cold snap power outage or circulator or fan malfunction…
- Rob R.
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 18004
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
- Location: Chazy, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
I had all of the same thoughts. I was assured the system would perform well and it does. PEX is set back from the perimeter a bit, so the heat transfer into frost wall is minimal. Ground is well drained item 4, and stud wall is full of spray foam. 90 degree water, runs a few minutes per hr to keep room 72F, and the room temperature is very stable.hotblast1357 wrote: ↑Sat. Dec. 04, 2021 7:45 am
With the drawing you displayed, I’m supposed there’s no insulation between the wall and side of slab, usually there is.. in that illustration your actually sending heat into the ground via the slab to wall contact and no insulation on the inside of the footer wall, or no insulation in between the slab and footer wall, your sending heat up into the stud walls.
Lee, how is your throttled heat exchanger working?