Putting my AA130 to use

Post by **Lightning** » Mon. Dec. 20, 2021 7:19 pm

lzaharis wrote: ↑
Mon. Dec. 20, 2021 10:55 am
The first is "PUMPING AWAY", the second is "CLASSIC HYDRONICS" and the third is "HOW COME".

I have a couple of these.. They were very helpful and fun to read

Retro_Origin · Post by **Retro_Origin** » Mon. Dec. 20, 2021 7:22 pm

McGiever wrote: ↑
Sun. Dec. 19, 2021 10:54 pm
Retro, if you indeed have a 130M you’re set with that 50:1 gearbox.
But, if a 260M you’ll need a different 25:1 gearbox.
You’ll feed not enough coal with a 50:1 on a 260M as both have same auger size.

It is a 130 so good to go on that!

lzaharis wrote: ↑
Mon. Dec. 20, 2021 10:55 am
Hello and good morning,

As you are just getting started with your plumbing I would like to recommend three paperback books to you.

The first is "PUMPING AWAY", the second is "CLASSIC HYDRONICS" and the third is "HOW COME".

These three paper back books were written by Dan Holohan who is a retired plumber, heating and cooling trouble shooter and former sales rep for TACO and Bell and Gossett.

Dan brings many decades of plumbing and heating experience to the reader in his writing and his makes the reading easy to understand for the layperson and the journeyman plumber.

Dan goes into great detail about hydronic heating systems and how they work and how they can be made more efficient too.
He also talks about his experiences in the plumbing business with many stories in his writing making the reading fun too.

You can purchase these paperback books directly from Dan through the www.heatinghelp.com web site through the bookstore page using the secure purchasing system they use and all profits go to the author. Dan ships the paperback books
you buy directly to you with no middleman involved.

If you can find someone with a steam cleaner to clear away all the dirt and green rust in the steel on the outer shell and the inner steam jacket you will have a better time in getting it ready for next year.

It may be much wiser to have it sand blasted or preferably find an auto repair shop that uses dry ice sandblasting to clean it with much less damage to the steel shell and the weldments.

Rick 386 may be the best contact to talk to about this as he has an AA that is heating a two family farmhouse with hot water heat and he owns an autobody repair shop.

You have a lot of corrosion damage/green rust due to moisture exposure that needs to be tended to and at least painted with a high temperature corrosion resistant paint after the steel has been cleaned.

Dry ice sand blasting is less damaging to steel than dry sand or the black beauty metal slag used for sand blasting. Renting a dry ice sand blaster is an option too.

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Green_rust

The boiler needs to be elevated off the slab to reduce any more corrosion from occurring.
You could do what Don did with his AA by using half blocks and mortaring them all together to create a solid block floor.

I actually have two of his books on my Christmas list! Although I read a few reviews saying he wasn't extremely technical, but rather more experiential. The reviews didn't say he doesn't know or understand things, but things should always be explained rather than just stated. I was actually about to ask for some good book material, we'll see if I get them! Good call on the dry ice blasting, we have a sandblaster at work that I can do any small/med sized components. Other than that I was just going to use the 4-10 and stand plenty far away

Retro_Origin · Post by **Retro_Origin** » Fri. Feb. 18, 2022 5:43 pm

So took a few hours this afternoon to get some progress on the axe. My wife said "no" to naming our next boy "Anderson"...stupid me for naming the source...now I'll go sulk and work on the only Anderson I'll ever have....

So planning to make an order with AA soon for replacement parts. I'd love any advice you'd have on extra things to check (still need to test the anthrastat). And if anyone has spare parts they're looking to sell I'd be interested.

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Had to cut this thing to get it out! It was SO jammed in there. Just using the plate with a new gasket (need to order) not going to use a coil for now. (though how much is a coil?)

Shone the flashlight in the boiler, looks clean..at least not terribly rusty! Can I fill the boiler with anything to help clean it until a few weeks when I get electric to it and all my parts installed?

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Two of four of the rollers siezed up. Getting the pins out of that and the sled assembly pusher arm was NOT easy...those things were resilient! (need to order new rollers)

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Sled looked in good shape to me! There was a lot of ash and coal on it, so I'm assuming that probably absorbed any moisture that would have worked on the metal but due to the known caustic affect of ashes...maybe not such a good thing?

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I just pried this out. Screw it, I'm replacing it, no point in even wondering.

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A terrible picture but you can see someone welded in a partial piece on the ring (is this called the fire ring or what?)

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AHhh! The moment I was waiting for, now I can see where the fan blows in!

Pretty much surface rust, I've decided I definitely need to wire brush it heavily before starting it up. Anyway, to repeat, my long term plan is the get this slammer into my house. It's way cool. I think I could convince a hipster green liberal to burn coal if he saw this.

Jkohanski · Post by **Jkohanski** » Fri. Feb. 18, 2022 8:13 pm

looking good

Post by **StokerDon** » Sat. Feb. 19, 2022 9:12 am

Retro_Origin wrote: ↑
Fri. Feb. 18, 2022 5:43 pm
Getting the pins out of that and the sled assembly pusher arm was NOT easy...those things were resilient! (need to order new rollers)

Drill the cotter pin holes out to the next bigger size. Next time they will come out a lot easier.
And, It's Not A Seld Dammit! It's A Grate!

The grate will survive a nuclear blast so not problem there.

So far, this thing actually looks real good! If the fire chamber ring is burnt, cracked, broken, cut it out and weld in a new one or patch weld together what you have.

-Don

Retro_Origin · Post by **Retro_Origin** » Sat. Feb. 19, 2022 9:18 am

StokerDon wrote: ↑
Sat. Feb. 19, 2022 9:12 am
Drill the cotter pin holes out to the next bigger size. Next time they will come out a lot easier.
And, It's Not A Seld Dammit! It's A Grate!

The grate will survive a nuclear blast so not problem there.

So far, this thing actually looks real good! If the fire chamber ring is burnt, cracked, broken, cut it out and weld in a new one or patch weld together what you have.

-Don

Where did I hear the term sled, I wonder? Doesn't a grate usually have holes?

I've been reading through "the annals" of your project, Don, it's been really helpful! I did see the note in there about drilling the cotter pins oversized, good idea. I think I'm going to make bronze bushings to slip over the old pins and then make new rollers. I suspect a round hole is going to get caught up on that pin and create a flat spot...my pins aren't very round anymore! Hope to get at it more today and post some more pics!

Post by **Lightning** » Sat. Feb. 19, 2022 10:04 am

Retro_Origin wrote: ↑
Sat. Feb. 19, 2022 9:18 am
Where did I hear the term sled, I wonder?

That'd be me probably

AA calls it a reciprocating grate but it appears to act more like a sled.

lzaharis · Post by **lzaharis** » Sat. Feb. 19, 2022 10:23 am

Per The Random House Websters Concise Dictionary; Second Edition;

On Page 288 The first definition for the word grate;

grate n. 1. is defined as a frame of metal bars for holding burning fuel, as in a fireplace. 2. a framework of parallel or crossed bars used as a framework or partition, guard, or cover.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

On Page 621 for the word sled;

sled n., v., sled-ded, sled-ding 1. a platform on runners, used by children for sliding over snow or ice. 2. a sledge -v.i, v.t. to ride on or convey by sled. 3. to ride on or convey by sled

sledge (slej), n. a heavy vehicle on runners for conveying people over snow or ice.

The definitions above are not complete as to pronunciation marks, italics, superscript, subscript as I do not know how to use all the functions on my keyboard, I probably should learn how to use them anyway.

Retro_Origin · Post by **Retro_Origin** » Sat. Feb. 19, 2022 10:29 am

lzaharis wrote: ↑
Sat. Feb. 19, 2022 10:23 am
Per The Random House Websters Concise Dictionary; Second Edition;

On Page 288 The first definition for the word grate;

grate n. 1. is defined as a frame of metal bars for holding burning fuel, as in a fireplace. 2. a framework of parallel or crossed bars used as a framework or partition, guard, or cover.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

On Page 621 for the word sled;

sled n., v., sled-ded, sled-ding 1. a platform on runners, used by children for sliding over snow or ice. 2. a sledge -v.i, v.t. to ride on or convey by sled. 3. to ride on or convey by sled

sledge (slej), n. a heavy vehicle on runners for conveying people over snow or ice.

The definitions above are not complete as to pronunciation marks, italics, superscript, subscript as I do not know how to use all the functions on my keyboard, I probably should learn how to use them anyway.

Therefore, Keith is either faulty in the use of the English language or currently sitting at the top of a snowy hill on his 'sled' going absolutely nowhere....

lzaharis · Post by **lzaharis** » Sat. Feb. 19, 2022 10:58 am

Hardly faulty Kieth, you are enjoying the view from the top of your hill.
Just be aware that Hobbes may be sneaking behind you to push your sled over the crest of the hill and you will end up in the creek or on the other side of it hanging in the tree by your coat or snow pants.

Retro_Origin · Post by **Retro_Origin** » Sat. Feb. 19, 2022 2:17 pm

Did some more today, took the gearbox off and opened it up. Looks pretty good inside, though I need to change the oil, took it into the basement to do so. Anybody want to chime in on how high to fill it? Looks like the gears were in good shape and pulling oil up from the bottom pretty well, the level was covering the cross worm/shaft and then barely touching the bottom teeth of the upper two gears. Sorry no picture, flashlight was in the garage and I was in the basement!

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At first I thought this was a crack! But while trying to get the transfer head off I took it apart and saw it was a split ring.

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Pretty cruddy

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Took the SINGLE bolt out that was 'holding the transfer head to the boiler' (that is called the transfer head right?)

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I could not get this to come loose, seems rusted fast I even disconnected the whole auger tube to be sure it wasn't somehow seized up on that. Any suggestions? I don't want to just beat on it till it loosens up..that would be stupid!

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Took the fan assembly out, wow the fan looked worse than the one laying on the ground next to the boiler. At first I was pretty scared, but all that loose stuff came off pretty well, I need to bring my vacuum out and really get at it. Anyway, if I hadn't taken this off and just fired up the fan haha that would have been DIIIIRRRRTTTYYY!

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Sat. Feb. 19, 2022 7:43 pm

Supposed to be 2bolts holding transfer head…might be why it’s not free after one removed.

Post by **StokerDon** » Sat. Feb. 19, 2022 8:54 pm

Retro_Origin wrote: ↑
Sat. Feb. 19, 2022 2:17 pm
Took the SINGLE bolt out that was 'holding the transfer head to the boiler' (that is called the transfer head right?)

There are 2 transfer head bolts. It does look pretty crusty. Get some penetrating oil down there and then gently whack it with a hammer. It's steel so it won't brake, just don't bend it.

If you have it apart and you are ordering stuff get a packing ring and a wick for the oiler.

If I remember correctly the gearbox takes 1 pint. Since it sits at an angle, there is no way to check it when installed. For maintenance, I drain it then put a pint in.

Retro_Origin wrote: ↑
Sat. Feb. 19, 2022 2:17 pm
Took the fan assembly out, wow the fan looked worse than the one laying on the ground next to the boiler.

Make sure all the bolts are in the fan. Sometimes they break and go into Never Never Land. Also check to see if there are any cracks radiating out from the bolt holes.

-Don

Post by **Lightning** » Sun. Feb. 20, 2022 8:37 am

Retro_Origin wrote: ↑
Fri. Feb. 18, 2022 5:43 pm
Just using the plate with a new gasket (need to order) not going to use a coil for now.

You can use a plate exchanger for domestic hot water. That's what I plan to do when/if my coil fails.

Retro_Origin · Post by **Retro_Origin** » Sun. Feb. 20, 2022 3:27 pm

Lightning wrote: ↑
Sun. Feb. 20, 2022 8:37 am
You can use a plate exchanger for domestic hot water. That's what I plan to do when/if my coil fails.

Preach to me brother, this sounds viable, I'm not crazy about a coil (since they're not expected to last more than 10 years). Do you have a link you can refer me to?

McGiever wrote: ↑
Sat. Feb. 19, 2022 7:43 pm
Supposed to be 2bolts holding transfer head…might be why it’s not free after one removed.

Welp, there's three holes and there was only one bolt. I'll have to soak it in some pb blaster / equivalent and let it for a day, also can you put me on the right track to getting a glass sight door? After seeing some pictures on here I'm not settling for not being able to see the fire.