Eshland s130 install

 
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Cdawg
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Post by Cdawg » Sat. Sep. 04, 2021 3:36 pm

So I finally pulled out the old Tarm wood/coal and installed the s130. Everything went well I will be installing the manometer today. I am using the hydrostatic 3150 that came with the boiler and also using a taco sr506 relay control. In the past I would wire xx on the taco relay to tt on the boiler control. I don’t believe that will work with the hydrostat as that would only start a circulator wired to that control. So... do I just run the boiler off the high limit of the hydrostat? What am I missing??
Pictures included.
Thanks
Mike
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nepacoal
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Post by nepacoal » Sat. Sep. 04, 2021 5:10 pm

You would use the "alternative wiring" diagram from Taco which uses the ZC/ZR terminals on the hydrostat instead of the TT. You'll also need to program the hydrostat to tell it to use the ZC/ZR as the trigger for the burner circuit instead of the TT. Note that the ZC/ZR wiring is 110V and not thermostat wiring like the TT uses

Wiring it this way will not let the pumps connected to the Taco run below LL-10°. This protects the boiler from low temperature condensing and also protects DHW temps if using the tankless coil.

 
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Cdawg
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Post by Cdawg » Sat. Sep. 04, 2021 5:22 pm

Thank you!!

 
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Sep. 05, 2021 9:04 am

Where is your expansion tank and air scoop?

The wiring suggested above will work, but these boilers usually come with an analog aquastat that keeps the boiler at a steady temperature (without any regard for heat calls).

Also - for some reason the Hydrostat aquastats are not reliable when used on coal boilers. I have had replace 80% of the ones I installed 8-10 years ago. If it were my boiler I would replace that Hydrostat with a Honeywell L4006A or something similar.

 
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Cdawg
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Post by Cdawg » Sun. Sep. 05, 2021 9:34 am

Expansion tank and air scoop are behind the boiler. I tried to keep as much space as possible for maintenance.

 
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Cdawg
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Post by Cdawg » Sun. Sep. 05, 2021 9:43 am

Great advice on the aquastat, I have read a lot of bad things regarding the hydrostat! I have a 4006 I could put on, the wiring on the boiler is a mess and needs to be completely redone. I also have an inkbird controller for the ash dump. I may tackle the entire project before winter sets in. I just want to get it running to see how it will do. This is my first official coal boiler install. I also have a efm df-520 to install remotely just for “fun”.
Thanks for all the great advice from all!

 
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Post by Cdawg » Sun. Sep. 05, 2021 11:19 am

nepacoal wrote:
Sat. Sep. 04, 2021 5:10 pm
You would use the "alternative wiring" diagram from Taco which uses the ZC/ZR terminals on the hydrostat instead of the TT. You'll also need to program the hydrostat to tell it to use the ZC/ZR as the trigger for the burner circuit instead of the TT. Note that the ZC/ZR wiring is 110V and not thermostat wiring like the TT uses

Wiring it this way will not let the pumps connected to the Taco run below LL-10°. This protects the boiler from low temperature condensing and also protects DHW temps if using the tankless coil.
It appears that I don’t have a programmable hydrostat 🤷🏼‍♂️ There is no test button and I can’t access any program function by the low limit dial??
08987EEE-A2DF-4E74-8BC7-should I just run it? Thanks Mike B322BE3D8B49.jpeg

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nepacoal
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Post by nepacoal » Sun. Sep. 05, 2021 11:51 am

Check the manual... You use the low temp dial to access the programming mode. See pages 5 and 6. It's supposed to be just past the off position.

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HydroStat-3150-Instructions-web2.pdf
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Cdawg
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Post by Cdawg » Sun. Sep. 05, 2021 1:34 pm

ImageYes I did download the manual & tried many times shoots from off right to 110* nothing in between.

 
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Cdawg
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Post by Cdawg » Sun. Sep. 05, 2021 1:55 pm

2408AB79-A321-4F08-9D40-7B348AC5A842.MOV
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ImageYes I did download the manual & tried many times shoots from off right to 110* nothing in between.

 
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Cdawg
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Other Heating: Fireplace

Post by Cdawg » Sun. Sep. 05, 2021 1:57 pm

Rob R. wrote:
Sun. Sep. 05, 2021 9:04 am
Where is your expansion tank and air scoop?

The wiring suggested above will work, but these boilers usually come with an analog aquastat that keeps the boiler at a steady temperature (without any regard for heat calls).

Also - for some reason the Hydrostat aquastats are not reliable when used on coal boilers. I have had replace 80% of the ones I installed 8-10 years ago. If it were my boiler I would replace that Hydrostat with a Honeywell L4006A or something similar.
I do have the l4006a it is wired as a safety limit by previous owner.

 
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Post by Cdawg » Sun. Sep. 05, 2021 1:58 pm

I have an l8124c I could put on?

 
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Post by lzaharis » Sun. Sep. 05, 2021 2:16 pm

As long as you wire it in properly following the owners/installation manual directions it should work fine.
I have my l8124 set at 150 low 170 high with the dump temperature set at 190.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Sep. 05, 2021 2:48 pm

lzaharis wrote:
Sun. Sep. 05, 2021 2:16 pm
As long as you wire it in properly following the owners/installation manual directions it should work fine.
I have my l8124 set at 150 low 170 high with the dump temperature set at 190.
The manual for an S130 won't have a schematic for a triple aquastat. They typically come with a single aquastat for operating temperature, and a separate dual aquastat with a low limit (use to keep circulator from running at low temperatures) and a second high limit for safety.

 
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Cdawg
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Location: Canaan New Hampshire
Stoker Coal Boiler: efm df520
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Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning
Coal Size/Type: Nut,Stove,(buckwheat soon)
Other Heating: Fireplace

Post by Cdawg » Sun. Sep. 05, 2021 3:01 pm

Rob R. wrote:
Sun. Sep. 05, 2021 2:48 pm
The manual for an S130 won't have a schematic for a triple aquastat. They typically come with a single aquastat for operating temperature, and a separate dual aquastat with a low limit (use to keep circulator from running at low temperatures) and a second high limit for safety.
Speaking of manuals....is there a manual for the s130 or is the newer has manual all there is?


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