which boiler?
I been running an EFM 700 for bout 10 yrs now. I bought it refurbed for 4 thousand dollars + 1000 to install. Boiler started leaking 2 yrs ago, fixed with Silver King. It let go with a much heavier leak 3 days ago. I'm going to try the Silver King again. I was told that maybe I did not use enough the last time. I bought 1 bottles, hopefully to get through the winter. Either way, the boiler needs replaced.
I have the option of getting another refurb, base and boiler for about 3,800 + 1,200 = installed. My question is: should I do this again? I like the EFM, but it has had some issues. I'm leaning toward a new furnace/boiler, but would really appreciate some recommendations.
I have the option of getting another refurb, base and boiler for about 3,800 + 1,200 = installed. My question is: should I do this again? I like the EFM, but it has had some issues. I'm leaning toward a new furnace/boiler, but would really appreciate some recommendations.
- Rob R.
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The issues you have had with your EFM are likely due to the age and condition when you received it. You could have the same issues with another used boiler - although the type of leak you described in your other post is pretty uncommon.
If your base and stoker is in good shape, I would try to find another 700 boiler from someone with experience checking them over.
If your base and stoker is in good shape, I would try to find another 700 boiler from someone with experience checking them over.
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Like Rob said you may have the same issues with a used boiler. A new EFM DF520 will set you back around $12,000 just for the complete boiler. I don’t think EFM makes the 700 anymore. I would have somebody who know what to look for in on these boilers.
- Rob R.
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I have nothing against used boilers, but you either need to know what you are looking at, or buy from someone that does (and buy at a price that matches the risk). If sticking with an EFM 700, the later models are plate boilers rather than tube boilers, and usually command a higher price.
Another thought - if you are only running the 700 at 4 or 5 teeth, you could do the same job with an EFM 520. It should not be too hard to find an EFM dealer that would take a nice 700 stoker and base on trade.
Another thought - if you are only running the 700 at 4 or 5 teeth, you could do the same job with an EFM 520. It should not be too hard to find an EFM dealer that would take a nice 700 stoker and base on trade.
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+1 ^^Rob R. wrote: ↑Mon. Jan. 11, 2021 9:15 pmI have nothing against used boilers, but you either need to know what you are looking at, or buy from someone that does (and buy at a price that matches the risk). If sticking with an EFM 700, the later models are plate boilers rather than tube boilers, and usually command a higher price.
Another thought - if you are only running the 700 at 4 or 5 teeth, you could do the same job with an EFM 520. It should not be too hard to find an EFM dealer that would take a nice 700 stoker and base on trade.
A 520 can heat more than most ppl use them for, plentiful, and about as robust a heating unit as you can get .
- franpipeman
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in reality at todays pricing a condensing gas /propane boiler costs less than a new efm and at 90% efficiency compared to a coal boiler efficiency it makes the cheaper fuel price propane ,not coal.
a suggestion if you purchase do not over size this unit know your heat loss .
https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/produ ... erview.pdf aprox 4200$ plus labor
a suggestion if you purchase do not over size this unit know your heat loss .
https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/produ ... erview.pdf aprox 4200$ plus labor
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When my boiler gives it up, I will do a condensing boiler for sure.franpipeman wrote: ↑Tue. Jan. 12, 2021 9:14 amin reality at todays pricing a condensing gas /propane boiler costs less than a new efm and at 90% efficiency compared to a coal boiler efficiency it makes the cheaper fuel price propane ,not coal.
a suggestion if you purchase do not over size this unit know your heat loss .
https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/produ ... erview.pdf aprox 4200$ plus labor
franpipeman wrote: ↑Tue. Jan. 12, 2021 9:14 amin reality at todays pricing a condensing gas /propane boiler costs less than a new efm and at 90% efficiency compared to a coal boiler efficiency it makes the cheaper fuel price propane ,not coal.
a suggestion if you purchase do not over size this unit know your heat loss .
https://s3.amazonaws.com/s3.supplyhouse.com/produ ... erview.pdf aprox 4200$ plus labor
If this is true, would wall mounted ventless units be even more efficient? I've read contradicting opinions on coal vs oil vs propane -no nat gas here where I am. If I'm spending 3000 dollars a yr on coal, would I really be able to keep it around that number? Boy ... that would be fantastic!
non-condensing oil @ 85%+ is generally still cheaper than propane @95%.
If you think you'll get away from annual maintenance with a condesing gas boiler over oil - guess again. depending on the heat exchanger material, the mfgr may require a water treatment and test to maintain their warranty. Also, count on needing generally primary secondary piping. Oh, and full replacements every 10-15 years with the occasional heat exchanger or circuit board in between.
And, if you want to actually achieve that 95% rating, you'll need to have less than 130F return water temps, not likely if you have baseboard.
yes, wall mounted ventless units are more efficient, but I wouldn't put them in my home. I see enough sevice calls come through for co alarms on those things to know better.
Bear in mind, efficiency and cost are not the same thing. Electric resistance is ~100% efficient, but may still be ~2-4 times the cost of oil to heat the same home.
If you think you'll get away from annual maintenance with a condesing gas boiler over oil - guess again. depending on the heat exchanger material, the mfgr may require a water treatment and test to maintain their warranty. Also, count on needing generally primary secondary piping. Oh, and full replacements every 10-15 years with the occasional heat exchanger or circuit board in between.
And, if you want to actually achieve that 95% rating, you'll need to have less than 130F return water temps, not likely if you have baseboard.
yes, wall mounted ventless units are more efficient, but I wouldn't put them in my home. I see enough sevice calls come through for co alarms on those things to know better.
Bear in mind, efficiency and cost are not the same thing. Electric resistance is ~100% efficient, but may still be ~2-4 times the cost of oil to heat the same home.