cast iron radiators and flooring

 
lincolnmania
Member
Posts: 2681
Joined: Fri. Jan. 26, 2007 9:55 pm
Location: Birdsboro PA.
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: reading allegheny stoker
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: alaska kodiak stoker 1986. 1987 triburner, 1987 crane diamond
Coal Size/Type: rice

Post by lincolnmania » Tue. Nov. 03, 2020 10:43 pm

i have several rooms with older carpet. the newest carpet is 25 yrs old. the kitchen and dining room floor are close to 30 yrs old, they all need to be replaced.
the only rooms i have new flooring installed is the bathrooms and the laundry room. also worried about the weight of the radiators pushing thru the vinyl flooring. and thru the pine tongue and groove flooring, it was reclaimed from another house the original house was built out of used lumber. my floors are also not very level. tried jacking up the house and the doors would not close.

thinking of setting the radiators on hardwood planks, i could shim them level and then the carpet and tile could go up to them. not sure what species of hardwood would be best.

other option is shim them with large washers. how would the carpet be installed around the feet tho?


 
lzaharis
Member
Posts: 2358
Joined: Sun. Mar. 25, 2007 8:41 pm
Location: Ithaca, New York
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Wed. Nov. 04, 2020 11:36 pm

Your making more work than you need to worry about. You may as well purchase dimensional hardwood for the radiator legs and be done with it as you have to keep in mind the weight is going to be distributed between the 4 legs of each radiator.

Leveling the radiator is a so so detail with a hot water radiator where maintaining pitch for draining condensate is more important with steam radiators not hot water radiators.

YOU need to worry more about properly plumbing the radiator wherein the hot water enters the base of the radiator and exits from the top to drain downward to enable the entire thermal mass potential to be used as the heat in the hot water is going to want to rise so taking advantage of simple thermodynamics will save you work and coal.

Investing in TRV's for each radiator is up to you but that is going to depend entirely what kind of plumbing job/mess you have to build.

If you invest in painted radiator covers the worry about radiator appearance stops at the painted screen of the radiator cover and it is a non issue.

 
User avatar
gaw
Member
Posts: 4429
Joined: Fri. Jan. 26, 2007 2:51 am
Location: Parts Unknown
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Coal Size/Type: Rice from Schuylkill County

Post by gaw » Thu. Nov. 05, 2020 12:58 am

I have seen it done where oak was used. It was a nice appearance along with the oak trim wood for the rest of the room it fits right in. This oak board sits against the wall and is just a little bigger than the footprint of the radiator. The flooring is then just fit up to and around it.

 
User avatar
McGiever
Member
Posts: 10128
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Thu. Nov. 05, 2020 9:57 am

As for leveling goes think fridge and washing machine...do rad feet have room for threaded holes?

 
lincolnmania
Member
Posts: 2681
Joined: Fri. Jan. 26, 2007 9:55 pm
Location: Birdsboro PA.
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: reading allegheny stoker
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: alaska kodiak stoker 1986. 1987 triburner, 1987 crane diamond
Coal Size/Type: rice

Post by lincolnmania » Thu. Nov. 05, 2020 6:57 pm

lzaharis wrote:
Wed. Nov. 04, 2020 11:36 pm
Your making more work than you need to worry about. You may as well purchase dimensional hardwood for the radiator legs and be done with it as you have to keep in mind the weight is going to be distributed between the 4 legs of each radiator.

Leveling the radiator is a so so detail with a hot water radiator where maintaining pitch for draining condensate is more important with steam radiators not hot water radiators.

YOU need to worry more about properly plumbing the radiator wherein the hot water enters the base of the radiator and exits from the top to drain downward to enable the entire thermal mass potential to be used as the heat in the hot water is going to want to rise so taking advantage of simple thermodynamics will save you work and coal.

Investing in TRV's for each radiator is up to you but that is going to depend entirely what kind of plumbing job/mess you have to build.

If you invest in painted radiator covers the worry about radiator appearance stops at the painted screen of the radiator cover and it is a non issue.
good idea but those iron plugs have been in the tops of those radiators since 1938. wouldn't removing them risk breaking a radiator?
the floors are soft, that's my concern. this house had major moisture issues until i was able to install sump pumps and repair the basement walls. the main beams have sags in them, the floor pitches towards the center of the house, jacked up the center a few yrs ago and the doors would not close. i was concerned using cast iron rads because i was not sure if they would want to lean over (stress on the piping) these radiators are low and wide, only two taller ones and they are just too large for my bathrooms. i will order some new smaller cast iron radiators and will pipe them with the returns on the top then.

 
User avatar
freetown fred
Member
Posts: 30292
Joined: Thu. Dec. 31, 2009 12:33 pm
Location: Freetown,NY 13803
Hand Fed Coal Stove: HITZER 50-93
Coal Size/Type: BLASCHAK Nut

Post by freetown fred » Thu. Nov. 05, 2020 7:34 pm

L, can you get to the floors from the basement & possibly scab some support 2X's horizontal in places where you're putting the radiators--I'm talkin 1st floor?

 
lzaharis
Member
Posts: 2358
Joined: Sun. Mar. 25, 2007 8:41 pm
Location: Ithaca, New York
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Fri. Nov. 06, 2020 3:31 am

About the plugs and the valves, you should have a webstone spud wrench on hand to do any repairs ($30. 00) amazon.

The new WD -40 thread penetrant and the aerkroil? thread penetrant are very good from what I understand and you should have a can handy to use.

You could probably rent a 3/4 drive socket set to remove those plugs, make sure you have a 12 point socket of that size to use.

Buying/renting long pipe wrenches to use is much safer than using a cheater pipe and safer.

You should plan on laying the radiators down to avoid having them tip over while removing the plugs.

The radiators should be flushed out from both ends too to assure that they are clean and free of sludge.

If the plugs are stubborn you can use an oxyacetylene torch with a long feather flame to heat the cast iron to enable you to remove the plugs.

Do you have a dehumidifier in the basement??


 
User avatar
hotblast1357
Member
Posts: 5657
Joined: Mon. Mar. 10, 2014 10:06 pm
Location: Peasleeville NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1984 Eshland S260 coal gun
Coal Size/Type: Lehigh anthracite pea
Other Heating: air source heat pump, oil furnace

Post by hotblast1357 » Fri. Nov. 06, 2020 6:04 am

My radiators are plumbed through the bottom fittings, they work excellent.

 
User avatar
Rob R.
Site Moderator
Posts: 17965
Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
Location: Chazy, NY
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr

Post by Rob R. » Fri. Nov. 06, 2020 6:23 am

hotblast1357 wrote:
Fri. Nov. 06, 2020 6:04 am
My radiators are plumbed through the bottom fittings, they work excellent.
Same with mine.

 
User avatar
nepacoal
Member
Posts: 1690
Joined: Wed. Nov. 21, 2012 7:49 am
Location: Coal Country
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4 / "Kelly" and an EFM 520 at my in-laws
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: Harman SF-260 - retired
Coal Size/Type: Buck

Post by nepacoal » Fri. Nov. 06, 2020 6:42 am

hotblast1357 wrote:
Fri. Nov. 06, 2020 6:04 am
My radiators are plumbed through the bottom fittings, they work excellent.
Yep, mine too. They were installed in the 1940's...

 
franco b
Site Moderator
Posts: 11416
Joined: Wed. Nov. 05, 2008 5:11 pm
Location: Kent CT
Hand Fed Coal Stove: V ermont Castings 2310, Franco Belge 262
Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114
Coal Size/Type: nut and pea

Post by franco b » Fri. Nov. 06, 2020 6:48 am

Leave the plugs alone.

 
lincolnmania
Member
Posts: 2681
Joined: Fri. Jan. 26, 2007 9:55 pm
Location: Birdsboro PA.
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: reading allegheny stoker
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: alaska kodiak stoker 1986. 1987 triburner, 1987 crane diamond
Coal Size/Type: rice

Post by lincolnmania » Fri. Nov. 06, 2020 7:09 am

i bought a spud wrench. every brass fitting came out of the radiators.
going to try to get the iron pipe out of the return elbows. they are white brass, prob 10x better than modern fittings.
not sure about saving the valves, some are broken from removal.
got limited time before it gets stupid cold. got major cleaning to do before i can even get these in the rooms. (this old house meets hoarders)
no i do not have a dehumidifier. plans to get one but other stuff always comes up.

i'm 3.5 yrs in fixing 20+ years of neglect.

 
lincolnmania
Member
Posts: 2681
Joined: Fri. Jan. 26, 2007 9:55 pm
Location: Birdsboro PA.
Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 350
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: reading allegheny stoker
Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: alaska kodiak stoker 1986. 1987 triburner, 1987 crane diamond
Coal Size/Type: rice

Post by lincolnmania » Fri. Nov. 06, 2020 7:20 am

i appreciate the conflicting advice.
i hope some do not get too frustrated with me.
sometimes i text scrapper to get his advice too.

was looking under the carpet where 19 yr old me fixed the rotted floor in my sons room. it was my room 30 yrs ago, i fixed the floor with a piece of the old baseboard, all the old windows leaked on the floor and the crappy air conditioners leaked too. i nailed 2x4 pieces to the floor joists back then.

the big ugly radiator has really rusty holding rods. can they be replaced? was going to use as basement radiator but afraid the rod may break and it leak. the water would run to the sump but would have a huge leak if it happened. or am i being paranoid that it didn't break moving it in and out of the truck.

 
lzaharis
Member
Posts: 2358
Joined: Sun. Mar. 25, 2007 8:41 pm
Location: Ithaca, New York
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Fri. Nov. 06, 2020 11:22 am

You may very well not require new rods and as far as I know you can still buy replacement radiator section connecting rods for it as they still make cast radiators of all sizes that need them.

Don't make any decision about that radiator or radiators until you have it off the truck and flushed out and pressure tested. If you can flush the radiator out from both sides you will have a better chance of having a clean radiator.

 
User avatar
CoalHeat
Member
Posts: 8862
Joined: Sat. Feb. 10, 2007 9:48 pm
Location: Stillwater, New Jersey
Stoker Coal Boiler: 1959 EFM 350
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Harman Magnafire Mark I
Baseburners & Antiques: Sears Signal Oak 15 & Andes Kitchen Range
Coal Size/Type: Rice and Chestnut
Other Heating: Fisher Fireplace Insert

Post by CoalHeat » Fri. Nov. 06, 2020 9:08 pm

hotblast1357 wrote:
Fri. Nov. 06, 2020 6:04 am
My radiators are plumbed through the bottom fittings, they work excellent.
Same here, and was the same way in the house I grew up in. Convection will do it's job inside the radiator. If the top of the sections doesn't get hot then you just need to bleed the air out.
Some people prefer to connect to the bottom on one end and then connect to the opposite end at the top, the pros and cons of either will be debated forever. With that plumbing method you don't need an air bleeder.


Post Reply

Return to “Stoker Coal Boilers Using Anthracite (Hydronic & Steam)”