axeman anderson wiring

im wondering if anyone on here that has an axeman anderson 130 could take a picture of their aquastat wiring for me?

I'm assuming this is a hot water boiler. The 130 and 260 use the same wiring.

coaledsweat wrote: ↑

Mon. Jan. 20, 2020 12:53 pm

I'm assuming this is a hot water boiler. The 130 and 260 use the same wiring.

20200120_125048.jpg

Yes hot water thank you for such quick response! I am going to have alot of questions for awhile!
I have this boiler now online with system and a makeshift metal chimney up. I tried to startup boiler last night just to hear it run but i found that the relay was bad on the aquastat. So i was looking for a picture like you sent just to look at another... pictures are easier for me than wiring schematics!

Ok so now for my next question... I thought i read somewhere on this forum boiler sequence... please tell me if i have this wrong. so boiler always keeps a temp between say 140 to 180 .. and when thermostat calls for heat only the circulator turns on.. but what if i want my circ to run constant? that would mean the house always has 180 degree water and no cool down period! ? or can i just lower high limit to say 150 and that might be good enough thanks in advance for any responses.

You will probably cook yourself if you run the pump continuously. What is your circulation system? Does it have zones or just a pump?

If just a pump, wire the thermostat to the TT terminals and it will fire the pump on a call for heat.

As far as set points 140° or above for low and 160° or above for high. You want them at least 20° apart with solid fuel. Keep in mind, oxygen disassociated from water at 153° so do not go lower than 140-145°.

coaledsweat wrote: ↑

Mon. Jan. 20, 2020 3:07 pm

You will probably cook yourself if you run the pump continuously. What is your circulation system? Does it have zones or just a pump?

If just a pump, wire the thermostat to the TT terminals and it will fire the pump on a call for heat.

As far as set points 140° or above for low and 160° or above for high. You want them at least 20° apart with solid fuel. Keep in mind, oxygen disassociated from water at 153° so do not go lower than 140-145°.

My system has one pump that runs it all.
Yes I was afraid of cooking myself outta the house! What I use for heat now is a handfed that usually runs 120-150. On constant circulation it heats house And garage well.

dbsuz05 wrote: ↑

Mon. Jan. 20, 2020 2:08 pm

when thermostat calls for heat only the circulator turns on.. but what if i want my circ to run constant?

On a remote boiler setup, with constant circulation, you would normally just run on the LO side of the triple aquastat. Unless you have thermostat wires run from the house to the Axeman, you don't even need a triple aquastat since there is no way to switch between the LO side and the HI side.

For a constant circulation system like yours I would just connect the pump to 120 volts, leave the T T terminals on the aquastat disconnected and run the LO side of the aquastat at the temperature you need.

If I remember correctly, you have a lot of radiators and run relatively low boiler temperatures???

-Don

StokerDon wrote: ↑

Mon. Jan. 20, 2020 4:01 pm

On a remote boiler setup, with constant circulation, you would normally just run on the LO side of the triple aquastat. Unless you have thermostat wires run from the house to the Axeman, you don't even need a triple aquastat since there is no way to switch between the LO side and the HI side.

For a constant circulation system like yours I would just connect the pump to 120 volts, leave the T T terminals on the aquastat disconnected and run the LO side of the aquastat at the temperature you need.

If I remember correctly, you have a lot of radiators and run relatively low boiler temperatures???

-Don

ah man you are one smart cookie! Thank you Don ... im printing out the manual for this triple aquastat that i bought today. It might be more than i needed, but i guess it has a few more features.... I will try to figure out through the manual how to run just the low side like your saying.. And i will probably re-read what you wrote a dozen times or so and then ask more questions.. Thanks for all your help so far! im ready to get this boiler heating !

dbsuz05 wrote: ↑

Mon. Jan. 20, 2020 4:32 pm

ah man you are one smart cookie! Thank you Don ... im printing out the manual for this triple aquastat that i bought today. It might be more than i needed, but i guess it has a few more features.... I will try to figure out through the manual how to run just the low side like your saying.. And i will probably re-read what you wrote a dozen times or so and then ask more questions.. Thanks for all your help so far! im ready to get this boiler heating !

Don i already got another question by thinking what i really wanted to happen.. i want to run a thermostat wire into the house have a thermostat on wall when the stat calls for heat it will turn the boiler "on" it will then run to 180 degrees. then the timer will just run for once an hour to maintain a fire.. Does this sound like something that can be done?

The aquastat will control the boiler's temperature, the thermostat controls the temperature in the house. The two don't relate to one another.

coaledsweat wrote: ↑

Mon. Jan. 20, 2020 4:59 pm

The aquastat will control the boiler's temperature, the thermostat controls the temperature in the house. The two don't relate to one another.

Ok. I understand that. Now how about can you just make the boiler run basically like an oil boiler would work? Stat in house calls for heat. Boiler maybe maintains at least say 120 all the time. But then when a heat call happens it runs the whole way up to 180 Then circulator just runs constantly? I do understand your advice of not going under 153 degrees because of oxygen. But this is an imperfect system that I just need to work until spring. I can upgrade parts and make things better as I go by all of you guys help. Thanks!
Ps. I’m pretty sure I need constant circulation because of my 6 foot of underground pipes between house and garage where boiler is located.

OK, go with the constant circulation if you so desire. The boiler temperature is not controlled in any way by the thermostat. When the temperature in the boiler reaches the low set point on the aquastat, the boiler will start and run until it reaches the high set point. The boiler doesn't care about the thermostat, it takes its orders from the aquastat. That's how an oil boiler works too.

dbsuz05 wrote: ↑

Mon. Jan. 20, 2020 5:33 pm

. I’m pretty sure I need constant circulation because of my 6 foot of underground pipes between house and garage where boiler is located.

Are they well insulated?

Like the others have said, your best outcome (in my opinion) would be to let the aquastat keep the boiler between 160-180 then have your house thermostat turn on the circulator when you need heat. The Axeman don't need a timer. Are you using it for DHW also??

dbsuz05 wrote: ↑

Mon. Jan. 20, 2020 4:41 pm

i want to run a thermostat wire into the house have a thermostat on wall when the stat calls for heat it will turn the boiler "on" it will then run to 180 degrees.

Now that is a really good idea!

With your constant circulation system and a thermostat, your boiler will be circulating low temperature water until the thermostat calls for heat. Then the Axeman will push the boiler temperature up until it hits the HI set point, or the heat call is met. This will result in less stand-by heat loss.

I am 90% sure you won't need a timer. Running constant circulation pumps heat out of the boiler continuously resulting in very regular stoker runs.

-Don

I’m new to my Aa 130 and by all means these guys know their stuff. From my little experience with this boiler with the massive amount of radiators I have even in a drafty house I can’t believe it won’t become uncomfortably warm with a constant circulation. Are you running through another furnace to the baseboards or direct?