EFM 350

Does the timer turn when powered?

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Sun. Jun. 06, 2021 2:37 pm

Does the timer turn when powered?

unplugged the stoker motor and gave the system power. I don't hear anything! assuming i should be hearing the small gear motor on the timer.

Yes, you would definitely hear it if it was running.

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Sun. Jun. 06, 2021 2:58 pm

Yes, you would definitely hear it if it was running.

Check valve on the heat exchanger zone pump must have some crud in it. there was some hot water getting to the heat exchanger making harder work for the air conditioner. I closed the valves to the zone and shut off the primary pump and that is when my troubles started.

i wired the timer according to the diagrams. guess i'll check with the voltmeter to make sure it's getting power.

what's the options if it's non working? pretty sure mercury switches are no longer made.

i just assumed the timer worked because i would hear the stoker running when i would go downstairs throughout the day.

You could use one of these if your old timer is shot...

New Solid State Timer

if it's the timer you posted a pic of a few months back, give it power to leads 1 (hot) and 2 (neutral). lead 4 goes to ZR on the aquastat. lead 3 is jumpered to 1.

when you apply power to 1 & 2, you should see the little gear in-line with the motor shaft start spinning. it's not fast but it is visible if you watch it for a few seconds. you might also feel it vibrate and or hear it. mine is perceptible if you focus on it but not buzzy (if that makes sense). the little gear is behind the plate that's behind the gears and setting dial. maybe a stripped/broken gear?

you could also make a witness mark on the setting dial and come back in 5-10 minutes to see if it moves.

if the timer was never working, you might have been getting away with it due to heat calls.

wire must be hooked up for timer to function lol

Well, There's your problem right there!!! Glad it was an easy fix...

I assumed you had verified power at the timer. Always start with a multimeter and go from there.

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Mon. Jun. 07, 2021 12:35 pm

I assumed you had verified power at the timer. Always start with a multimeter and go from there.

i did have voltage at the timer, problem was i had 120v where the neutral should be for some reason too. that's when i turned it all off and checked the connection which was bad. still not sure if the timer works. about frustrated with the whole house. the relay for the a/c fan went bad today too. 28 dollars later at least that is fixed.
got carpenter ants too they are coming out around the chimney.
still not sure if the timer works. gotta go run mom around now, sure hope the fire is still lit when i get home

I like having a 120 volt LED or Xeon pigtail
wired to the switched/load side as that indicates every “ON” cycle. Then for troubleshooting one would simply advance the timer manually just against the tripper and then wait to see if timer motor moves to complete the “trip” and show the light. No light means no advance of timer motor. A continuous light means timer motor stuck at “run” position.
Not difficult to set up...Amazon has small pigtail light to use.

just got home, fire is out again.
the timer does not work

lincolnmania wrote: ↑

Mon. Jun. 07, 2021 6:26 pm

just got home, fire is out again.
the timer does not work

Don't forget, if you are running the timer through the ZR terminal on the aquastat (you should be), the stoker won't run when the boiler is over the high limit. You should have the high limit set at 200.

It very hot out right now so it will be a challenge to keep the boiler below the high limit. This can lead to skipped timer cycles and eventually an outfire.

-Don

Yes what SDon says!!
This is another case for a pigtail light indicator...when HIGH/HIGH limit is open a indicator light displays.
I know this is very easy with a separate aquastat with SPDT...L6006A I think it is...