Losch 350 Questions
- Shawn3318
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I think this is the spot. I have a couple questions that I’m hoping someone or someone’s can help answer for me.
I have an old losch 350 (size) serial number 847A steam is 15# and water is 30#( not sure if that matters)
Question 1) were the cold water goes in when it’s cold looks like I have a small leak when it warms up the leak goes away. I am thinking that a may have a leak in the pipe or a leak in the gasket. Before I get into it later this summer is there a gasket or is it metal to metal with some sorta sealer? Any kind of feed back on that would be great so I know what I need to get before I open it up.
Question 2) I have a hold fire box that the timer sticks on it (R883B) series 80 is there something on the market that I can replace that with maybe something more modern? Or is there a way to have the timer part fixed?
Question 3) I have two thermostats also series 80 RA89A can that be replaced with something more modern
Again any kinda help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you and happy new year
I have an old losch 350 (size) serial number 847A steam is 15# and water is 30#( not sure if that matters)
Question 1) were the cold water goes in when it’s cold looks like I have a small leak when it warms up the leak goes away. I am thinking that a may have a leak in the pipe or a leak in the gasket. Before I get into it later this summer is there a gasket or is it metal to metal with some sorta sealer? Any kind of feed back on that would be great so I know what I need to get before I open it up.
Question 2) I have a hold fire box that the timer sticks on it (R883B) series 80 is there something on the market that I can replace that with maybe something more modern? Or is there a way to have the timer part fixed?
Question 3) I have two thermostats also series 80 RA89A can that be replaced with something more modern
Again any kinda help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you and happy new year
- Rob R.
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Welcome. The leak you described sounds like it is at a threaded connection, but a picture would be helpful. If the leak is minor and the metal is in a good shape a treatment with boiler seal would likely take care of it.
As for the timer, there are several options for replacement. Do you happen to know how often the timer runs?
As for the timer, there are several options for replacement. Do you happen to know how often the timer runs?
- StokerDon
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The Domestic Hot Water coil is sealed to the boiler with a rubber gasket. When the gasket leaks, you normally don't see it because the boiler is hot and the water evaporates before it gets to the floor. Over time, this leak will eat right through the boiler. In your picture there is a lot of rust above and below the coil. I would pull one of the top covers and pull the front cover out as far as you can to see what is leaking.Shawn3318 wrote: ↑Wed. Dec. 25, 2019 12:39 pmQuestion 1) were the cold water goes in when it’s cold looks like I have a small leak when it warms up the leak goes away. I am thinking that a may have a leak in the pipe or a leak in the gasket. Before I get into it later this summer is there a gasket or is it metal to metal with some sorta sealer?
A lot of people on the forum covert to an electronic timer. This eliminates the possibility of the timer sticking. The Tork EJWT percentage timer is what some of us use. One member used a GRT8-S1/W240. He gutted the original timer box and mounted the new unit inside. These are very inexpensive but you have to mount them in a box.
New Solid State Timer
-Don
- McGiever
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That timer looks like it is a pilot for a 3rd zone, and so is a combo unit.
As for any timer considerations watch that it's contacts are rated high enough amps to handle total burner amp draw or else a heavy relay would be needed added to be piloted by timer and then heavy relay runs the burner.
As for that combo sticking, a good cleaning and some oil for the clock motor may fix it and give another 50 years of service...
As for any timer considerations watch that it's contacts are rated high enough amps to handle total burner amp draw or else a heavy relay would be needed added to be piloted by timer and then heavy relay runs the burner.
As for that combo sticking, a good cleaning and some oil for the clock motor may fix it and give another 50 years of service...
- coaledsweat
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Hit all those nuts that hold the hot water coil in place every day for a week with some good penetrating oil. Find a piece of pipe that fits larger than the threads and solidly on the bolt face. Each day you oil it, give each nut a love tap on the pipe with a hammer. Don't wail on it, just a decent smack. When you've done that for a week, go around with a box wrench and give them a little snuggling. Don't get carried away, just a little. If you wire brush everything you will notice if it continues to leak. If so, give it another snugging. Boilers breath and this works any waterside gasket. They need to be snugged up at least once a year.
- coaledsweat
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If it continues to leak you're going to have an adventure changing that gasket.
- McGiever
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- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
- Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
- Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar
Seems I missed this for a time now...aerosol contact cleaner CRC makes one....as in electrical contacts