AA130 under heavy load.

 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Feb. 09, 2020 8:28 am

If it were me, the simple and easy way seems to be to use the the triple aquastat to cut the circulator on low water temp like hotblast suggested.


 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Feb. 09, 2020 8:31 am

lsayre wrote:
Sun. Feb. 09, 2020 8:19 am
I haven't researched how they do it, but I believe that the standard means of home heating in Europe is to keep water minimally but continuously flowing through the homes various heat emitters. This was the original reason for the invention of the variable speed ECM circulator. And why such circulators came about in Europe long before they ever came to America.
That would be done via trvs at each radiator.

 
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Post by KLook » Sun. Feb. 09, 2020 8:39 am

Pulse system like Tekmar and outdoor reset.

Kevin

 
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Post by lsayre » Sun. Feb. 09, 2020 8:40 am

Lightning wrote:
Sun. Feb. 09, 2020 8:28 am
If it were me, the simple and easy way seems to be to use the the triple aquastat to cut the circulator on low water temp like hotblast suggested.
I must have been so far behind that I thought I was in the lead.

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Sun. Feb. 09, 2020 8:44 am

lsayre wrote:
Sun. Feb. 09, 2020 8:40 am
I must have been so far behind that I thought I was in the lead.
Larry I never suggested that lmao

 
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nepacoal
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Post by nepacoal » Sun. Feb. 09, 2020 9:16 am

Lightning wrote:
Sun. Feb. 09, 2020 8:28 am
If it were me, the simple and easy way seems to be to use the the triple aquastat to cut the circulator on low water temp like hotblast suggested.
This plus a simple boiler bypass would be my choice... If money were no object I'd go with the thermostatic bypass valve on a system bypass in conjunction with P/S plumbing
Last edited by nepacoal on Sun. Feb. 09, 2020 9:57 am, edited 2 times in total.

 
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Post by Pat63 » Sun. Feb. 09, 2020 9:32 am

nepacoal wrote:
Sat. Feb. 08, 2020 12:22 pm
A system bypass with a thermostatic mixing valve would likely solve most of the issues, depending on the entire systems water volume... This setup in conjunction with primary/secondary piping would probably be one of the best solutions.
I agree, installing something like a Danfoss mixing valve will keep excessively cold water from entering the boiler. The water just keeps looping until it's up to your desired temp before it heads to your emitters. Wood burning boilers use them a lot to keep the firebox walls from corroding due to condensation from the cold water entering the boiler on fire-up. Just my 2 cents...LOL

Pat


 
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Lightning
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Post by Lightning » Sun. Feb. 09, 2020 9:34 am

lsayre wrote:
Sun. Feb. 09, 2020 8:40 am
I must have been so far behind that I thought I was in the lead.
Oh sorry, :lol: my bad... I've only had one coffee so far.

 
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Post by Dave 1234 » Sun. Feb. 09, 2020 3:22 pm

Had to run up to Vt. for work so missed all of this discusion. Lots of ways to skin a cat for sure.

After taking 2 undersized boiler out of cold, uncomfortable houses I can say, size matters.... a lot.

And a larger boiler is only going to eat as much coal as you need for heat. The only down side is they are heavy, and harder to find when you want one.

Both houses were large. Both always cold..... With bigger than needed boilers installed,the temps are steady, and plenty of DHW.

Dave 8-)

 
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Post by CapeCoaler » Sun. Feb. 09, 2020 4:15 pm

Use what ya got...
A surge tank that has primary secondary built in..
And the controls setup to maintain higher temps...
Will do wonders in the shoulder seasons...
http://bellgossett.com/hydronic-plumbing-accessor ... literature

 
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Post by Egghead » Sun. Mar. 01, 2020 1:36 am

We had an interesting occurrence happen today.Our new load of coal bridged the auger and I was out of town for the day. Anyway the furnace burned itself dry of coal so to speak. All three apartments were below 60 and it was windy and 28 outside. Pretty sure this 130 can handle anything at this point! Took some time to get a full burn again and some more to climb back up to 180 but it fully handled it and brought them all back up to the set temperature at the thermostats. It was impressive.

 
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Post by dbsuz05 » Sun. Mar. 01, 2020 9:55 am

Wet coal doesn’t work for axemans!
I was thinking of something for your heat controls. Being you said so much cold water comes back to boiler from the apartments. What if you turn the anticipators on the thermostats alittle closer. So that thermostats detect just one degree of room temp? Most times they are set to about 2 degree swing up or down. If thermostats check for heat more often in turn I would think your water wouldn’t be as cold when it returns to boiler. Just a simple thought.

 
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Post by lzaharis » Sun. Mar. 01, 2020 12:12 pm

From What I remember of Mr. Holohans writing about when he was visiting a trade show in Europe he stated that the heating regulations in Germany mandated that the hot water heating systems operated at no higher than 160 degrees at all times. They do not need higher temperatures since the homes and businesses there are highly insulated buildings down to the smallest home. Apparently steam heating is no longer allowed in residences there due to concerns from burns.

 
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Post by David... » Sun. Mar. 01, 2020 4:37 pm

The size of the emitters ( radiators, baseboard, etc.) are what determine the water temperature.

David

 
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Post by Egghead » Tue. Oct. 27, 2020 6:40 pm

It seems I’m that rare case where I actually need a timer to keep this running during this weather we have been having. Should I just go with whatever AA is selling or is there something better. I got tired of searching as I ended up reading post after post of it not being needed.


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