Axeman Anderson 260-M adventures!

Lightning wrote: ↑

Thu. Oct. 28, 2021 3:22 pm

If I recall correct I just squashed a rope gasket in there.. High Heat Silicone would work there also but seems like it would make it more difficult to remove.

It wasn't bad removing it, I'll give the rope gasket a try!

Fired up the boiler Sunday, the rope gasket on the exhaust pipe was a bust. Had fines leaking on top of the boiler so I put a bead of silicone around it again and this fixed the issue. I did not get everything done I wanted to but it's running like it's boring self. If you want lots of heat and nothing really to do but carry out ash then these boilers are not for you! Still in total amazement on how well these boilers work!

Base burners are beautiful, but these are works of art!

hotblast1357 wrote: ↑

Tue. Nov. 02, 2021 8:47 am

Base burners are beautiful, but these are works of art!

I still can't figure out how it works so damn good! I have 4 heat exchangers hooked to it and the one in my furnace is grossly oversized, plus 200' of underground and with all of them going at once, I still cannot put enough load on the boiler to get it to run continuously without cycling!

And to put the icing on the cake, your coal usage seems very reasonable to me!

swyman wrote: ↑

Wed. Nov. 03, 2021 9:22 am

I still can't figure out how it works so damn good! I have 4 heat exchangers hooked to it and the one in my furnace is grossly oversized, plus 200' of underground and with all of them going at once, I still cannot put enough load on the boiler to get it to run continuously without cycling!

Snow melting!!

McGiever wrote: ↑

Wed. Nov. 03, 2021 11:01 am

Snow melting!!

That would do it! There is someone on here that uses a 260 to heat his driveway...forgot who it is. Said it will run wide open for hours on end.

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Wed. Nov. 03, 2021 11:08 am

That would do it! There is someone on here that uses a 260 to heat his driveway...forgot who it is. Said it will run wide open for hours on end.

Ooooo.. 22 pounds per hour lol

Hello Lee,

Gravity hot water heat in combination with cast iron radiators creates a huge amount of thermal mass and the 170 degree temperature of the water permits it to rise slowly in the riser pipe and then to the open to air expansion tank and then it drops slowly into the drop pipe where it travels gradually to the radiators on each floor through the radiators that have restrictor plates in the inlet side of each radiator.

Using a restrictor orifice plate in all the radiators up to the 6th in a top fed or bottom fed natural flow system assures that the lower floors are heated first and the upper floors will be heated at a slower rate to create even heating on each floor.

The restrictor orifice plate in each lower floor radiator allows only a certain amount of hot water to each radiator on the lower floors and the hot water will continue to rise to the upper floors passing the radiators as it travels upward in the riser pipe to each floor gradually reaching the top or 6th floor.

In some top fed gravity hot water heating systems in taller buildings they will pump the water to the open to air expansion tank using a float switch to control the circulator which prevents the open to air tank from flooding and the water to blow out the vent pipe on the roof.

In a top fed gravity hot water system it does not require vent/bleeding of air in the system as the water in the system displaces all the air bubbles and they rise to the open to air expansion tank.

In a bottom fed gravity hot water system each radiator has to be bled to remove any air bubbles in the radiators on each floor starting at the basement radiators.

The beauty of it is the water in the gravity hot water system is never hotter than 170 degrees Fahrenheit.

Huh? And a partridge in a pear tree

McGiever wrote: ↑

Wed. Nov. 03, 2021 2:49 pm

Huh? And a partridge in a pear tree

Leon meant to send that to me in a private message..

Carry on..

McGiever wrote: ↑

Wed. Nov. 03, 2021 11:01 am

Snow melting!!

I would love to have done that to my patio but I would have to tear out the existing concrete and pour new.

swyman wrote: ↑

Thu. Nov. 04, 2021 7:08 am

I would love to have done that to my patio but I would have to tear out the existing concrete and pour new.

Just a days work

hotblast1357 wrote: ↑

Thu. Nov. 04, 2021 9:34 am

Just a days work

Would need a breaker on a mini, my patio is elevated with block walls. I have the means and access to the equipment but the $5k it would take to do it, I'll just keep shoveling.

Well there hasn't been much to talk about till ya go pushing buttons! So with the talk in another thread about the relationship between ashing temp and fire depth I decided to make a slight adjustment. My ashing temp was set at 115* during last season and my first with this boiler. I know you guys say make small adjustments so I went from 115* to 118* just to see what would happen, and boiler load has finally went up some with the cold temps we are having. Fire seemed to have moved a little lower looking better than seeing some burnt coal on top. Thought I would pull out the ash pan and see how it looked and this thing is spitting out clinkers the width of the entire ash sled! I have 2 solid clinkers as long as my ash tub and about 4-5" wide! Is this a good sign or does a clinker indicate that the coal has not been entirely burned? Never seen anything like it.