Axeman Anderson 260-M adventures!

Post by **Rob R.** » Fri. Oct. 16, 2020 7:26 am

Yes. Do it once, do it right.

You will be shocked at the output of this thing when you get it online.

swyman · Post by **swyman** » Fri. Oct. 16, 2020 9:42 am

Man I've been trying to figure out AA's spare parts list on the computer and my head hurts. I hope I can just call them and tell them the parts I need because this sucks!

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Fri. Oct. 16, 2020 9:54 am

swyman wrote: ↑
Fri. Oct. 16, 2020 9:42 am
Man I've been trying to figure out AA's spare parts list on the computer and my head hurts. I hope I can just call them and tell them the parts I need because this sucks!

Sure can call, be clear that for AA-260 is all.

Post by **Lightning** » Fri. Oct. 16, 2020 2:16 pm

I know... I had the same trauma when I was looking up parts too. They'll help you figure it out though. If you post pics we could probably help ya figure it out also

Post by **StokerDon** » Fri. Oct. 16, 2020 6:02 pm

swyman wrote: ↑
Fri. Oct. 16, 2020 9:42 am
Man I've been trying to figure out AA's spare parts list on the computer and my head hurts. I hope I can just call them and tell them the parts I need because this sucks!

The parts manual is not the greatest and a lot of the transfer head isn't even in it. The good news is that they have been building these things for over 75 years. If you call them, they will know exactly what you need.

Don't forget the wick and spring for the wick oiler. It might be a good idea to replace the cyclone cone while you have it apart too.

Good job on that DHW coil area! That one will never leak again!

-Don

swyman · Post by **swyman** » Sat. Oct. 17, 2020 7:26 am

StokerDon wrote: ↑
Fri. Oct. 16, 2020 6:02 pm

Don't forget the wick and spring for the wick oiler. It might be a good idea to replace the cyclone cone while you have it apart too.

Good job on that DHW coil area! That one will never leak again!

-Don

Good call on the wick oiler, the cyclone cone looks like it is in near perfect shape. Still have some more wire wheeling to do then have to throw some paint on it!

swyman · Post by **swyman** » Sun. Oct. 18, 2020 12:54 pm

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We got wheels!

NICE!

Amazing what you can do when you have a lathe. Are that aluminum?

-Don

Post by **Lightning** » Sun. Oct. 18, 2020 2:16 pm

Nice! You made those??

swyman · Post by **swyman** » Mon. Oct. 19, 2020 7:10 am

Don, not aluminum, just 2" cold rolled. I was going to bush them with brass but decided to just grease them with high temp grease. I also thought about installing grease zirk's but it wouldn't work going through the cotter pin hole. Only took me a couple hours so I will see how this first season goes. I know a lot of you guys use never seize but I used it in my Bronco lockout hubs once and it dried out causing my hubs not to work so I would rather try my luck with a high temp grease.

swyman · Post by **swyman** » Mon. Oct. 19, 2020 7:11 am

Lightning wrote: ↑
Sun. Oct. 18, 2020 2:16 pm
Nice! You made those??

Yes, not sure how much AA charges for them, just trying to save where I can. I'll see how this season goes with them, may make make new ones with brass bushings if they lock up. Just not sure how the brass would wear?

Post by **coaledsweat** » Mon. Oct. 19, 2020 8:34 am

swyman wrote: ↑
Mon. Oct. 19, 2020 7:10 am
Don, not aluminum, just 2" cold rolled. I was going to bush them with brass but decided to just grease them with high temp grease. I also thought about installing grease zirk's but it wouldn't work going through the cotter pin hole. Only took me a couple hours so I will see how this first season goes. I know a lot of you guys use never seize but I used it in my Bronco lockout hubs once and it dried out causing my hubs not to work so I would rather try my luck with a high temp grease.

You need to drill them from the outside in. Makes greasing them a lot easier too. Or if you must do it inside, offset the hole from the cotter pin hole, there is enough meat.

swyman · Post by **swyman** » Mon. Oct. 19, 2020 9:32 am

coaledsweat wrote: ↑
Mon. Oct. 19, 2020 8:34 am
You need to drill them from the outside in. Makes greasing them a lot easier too. Or if you must do it inside, offset the hole from the cotter pin hole, there is enough meat.

Just thought it would be tough to locate going through the outside. It would be the cats A$% going through the outside though!

swyman · Post by **swyman** » Wed. Oct. 21, 2020 9:00 am

The mason stopped by last night and said he was going to start this morning! And in 2020 fashion it's raining......FMR

swyman · Post by **swyman** » Wed. Oct. 21, 2020 5:53 pm

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Had to break out the rose bud to get 2 ash sled wheels off. The ash sled had a really bad spot where one of the worn out wheels were. Had to build it up with weld, didn't want it to rock. Pin was about worn off on the crank arm that motions the ash sled. This really needed some love! Oh, and my chimney is 4 feet tall!

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swyman · Post by **swyman** » Fri. Oct. 23, 2020 9:30 am

Wonder If I made a mistake? I was not able to talk to the mason because of my work schedule. I tried to make everything as easy as possible for him with my very limited knowledge of chimneys. I have always heard you guys talking about thimbles so I naturally went to my chimney supply site and ordered a 6" thimble. I had to leave work early for an emergency side job yesterday and got a chance to talk to the mason. While the thimble looks really nice I asked how he usually does it. His reply was he just uses the clay tile. Now the thimble I bought is insulated with round stainless pipe inside. Should I not have bought this and just did the clay tile? I guess it will be something I will have to monitor for sure. Once again I get myself in trouble trying to do what I think is right?