keystoker KAA-4

lzaharis · Post by **lzaharis** » Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 9:57 am

Would anyone happen to know why keystoker changed the desired placement of the barometric damper from the point above the stoker in a horizontal section of stove pipe to very near the flue breech? I would like to get that settled before I replace the old stove pipe this year.

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 12:52 pm

OH, so you got the NEW Keystoker Manual you've been waiting for all this time!

The best place for the baro is like any one of the manufacturer's (of the baro) many recommended physical locations...no stove maker can guess or predict how their product will be aligned with any customer's unique chimney.

Visit Fields website and pick a recommendation that applies to YOUR install or have the conversation with Keystoker of how your chimney is arranged so he can make a proper recommendation...one size does NOT fit ALL.

Look at Page 2, Figure 1

.PDF | 946.2KB | FIELDS_TypeRC_Rev_B_04-15.pdf

lzaharis · Post by **lzaharis** » Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 1:22 pm

Nope, they have not bothered to mail me a new manual. I was just wondering why they changed the location is all. I was just planning on replacing all the stove pipe anyway
and cleaning the barometric damper and using it again placing it near the flue breech.

I do not have the room to install it 18 inches away from the breech horizontally so I guess I will install it in a second Tee in the first vertical stove pipe after the clean out tee at the flue breech. I may as well buy a new 6 inch barometric damper since I will have all new stove pipe anyway since its 5 years old now and leaking at the joints.

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 1:51 pm

lzaharis wrote: ↑
Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 1:22 pm
Nope, they have not bothered to mail me a new manual. I was just wondering why they changed the location is all. I was just planning on replacing all the stove pipe anyway
and cleaning the barometric damper and using it again placing it near the flue breech.

I do not have the room to install it 18 inches away from the breech horizontally so I guess I will install it in a second Tee in the first vertical stove pipe after the clean out tee at the flue breech. I may as well buy a new 6 inch barometric damper since I will have all new stove pipe anyway since its 5 years old now and leaking at the joints.

Aww, come on man, you didn't read the pdf I added for you...NO damper in in a bull head Tee...they want some length of straight pipe before and after where you put the Tee in... no right angle turning...laminar air flow or something...not turbulence...no wonder you got smoke backing up in the house on a cold fire light-up...

Post by **Rob R.** » Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 2:41 pm

Probably just a different guy that out the manual together this time around. I would just follow the instructions from Field Controls.

As pointed out above, if you install in a straight run of pipe with the supplied collar you will be good to go.

ShawnTRD · Post by **ShawnTRD** » Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 7:40 pm

Hey Leon
You pipe is rusted out already? I think I have Heat Fab pipe and it's still really thick and solid.

ShawnTRD · Post by **ShawnTRD** » Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 7:45 pm

Everyone,
As we are talking about baro placement. Is mine in the best place or should I think about moving it up?

.JPG | 192.9KB | 20190902_193311.jpg

.JPG | 214.9KB | 20190902_193333.jpg

lzaharis · Post by **lzaharis** » Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 8:23 pm

McGiever wrote: ↑
Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 1:51 pm
Aww, come on man, you didn't read the pdf I added for you...NO damper in in a bull head Tee...they want some length of straight pipe before and after where you put the Tee in... no right angle turning...laminar air flow or something...not turbulence...no wonder you got smoke backing up in the house on a cold fire light-up...

==========================================================================================
I agree with you the laminar flow would not be correct with my set up after reexamining it again. Installing it in the Tee prevents the barometric damper from reacting quickly as it should with high winds to bypass the firebox and to also prevent too much combustion air from entering the stoker through the fan housing when the stoker is shut down.

I will do it the way they want it installed. I have a very sharp new pair of Stanley tin snips for the job. I will keep the barometric damper in the new vertical pipe coming off the cleanout tee.

Shawn, you made the same mistake I did with your barometric damper.

=========================================================================================
About my stove pipe Shawn, the stove pipe is rusted and leaks flyash even with the sheet metal screws tightening the connections so its time to change it. I should have bought thicker than 24 gauge pipe I guess.
I received my replacement ash cleanout door on Friday so I can get that replacement work done when it stops raining for a few days. Time to go stove pipe shopping again at Rockford Chimney Supply.

Qtown1835 · Post by **Qtown1835** » Tue. Sep. 03, 2019 9:33 am

lzaharis wrote: ↑
Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 8:23 pm

About my stove pipe Shawn, the stove pipe is rusted and leaks flyash even with the sheet metal screws tightening the connections so its time to change it. I should have bought thicker than 24 gauge pipe I guess.

I used foil tape on all my joints and it has been holding solid for 3 years now. Maybe give that a shot?

lzaharis · Post by **lzaharis** » Tue. Sep. 03, 2019 3:09 pm

Hello Qtown1835,

I can always try that when I pull the pipes off to clean things up if they are worth using again.
One of the problems has been the adjustable elbows as they will leak some vey fine fly ash too.

ShawnTRD · Post by **ShawnTRD** » Tue. Sep. 03, 2019 4:56 pm

lzaharis wrote: ↑
Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 8:23 pm
Shawn, you made the same mistake I did with your barometric damper.

What mistake is that?

lzaharis · Post by **lzaharis** » Tue. Sep. 03, 2019 8:09 pm

What I ment was that I never should have installed my barometric damper
in a stove pipe tee rather than simply cutting a hole in the stove pipe to
secure the barometric damper with a mounting strap.

ShawnTRD · Post by **ShawnTRD** » Thu. Sep. 05, 2019 4:05 am

I could trim the T section back so it's closer to the base. Does anyone think I should?

Qtown1835 · Post by **Qtown1835** » Fri. Sep. 06, 2019 9:51 am

lzaharis wrote: ↑
Tue. Sep. 03, 2019 8:09 pm
What I ment was that I never should have installed my barometric damper
in a stove pipe tee rather than simply cutting a hole in the stove pipe to
secure the barometric damper with a mounting strap.

Why is installing the damper in a tee a problem?

lzaharis · Post by **lzaharis** » Fri. Sep. 06, 2019 6:12 pm

With a barometric damper placed correctly and attached to the stove pipe it allows wind gusts/to bypass the firebox completely where if it is in a Tee in the stack it barely reacts to any atmospheric pressure or breezes in the house as it is 4 inches away from the flue pipe. This was one of the issues I had also.

Your open chimney will let the wind gusts pull the air out of the basement and you will see the barometric damper move if the gusts are strong enough when the boiler is off and the chimney is cold or hot and the stoker is shut down..
In my case the chimney is 19 feet tall with the extension and I am protected by a shelterbelt of trees and learned the hard way. Any wind gust will push air pull through the fire bed rather than through the barometric damper if it is not correctly installed in the flue pipe.
When the stoker is running the barometric damper will react with wind gusts and also prevent the stoker form over firing and wasting coal. my hand fed never overfired as I had the correct size barometric damper in the oil boiler and it prevented it from blowing off.

I never should have done it this way as that added to my boiler issues and it also creates the potential for a much larger fire than the 2 inch band of burning coal on the fire grate. Rest assured I will be changing that as well before I start burning the magic black rocks.