Coalgun s130 install

So im trying to figure out best way to situate the boiler in the basement.
Heres an outline of house This would be the most direct chimney option with only 1 90, but i may be only able to get one ash door fully opened. This way would be a little more accessable but i would have to route stove pipe around hopper to get to the chimney. This way would also require 2 90s and short sections of pipe. But more room on sides of boiler. All relatively close to the forced air furnace for the heat exchanger and can mount the manifolds etc on wall to left of boiler.

Just trying to figure out best way to configure as i gotta level.out the floor a bit as concretes not very smooth/level.
Not sure if main focus should be on best stove pipe route or overall setup.
Thanks

2-90 degree elbows will not diminish the effectiveness of the chimney on an AHS-130...access to all sides is most important.

I would go with option 1 or 3. Option 2 is too complicated and you will have to take it apart during the Winter to clean it.

On a boiler, the coal supply and chimney connection are much more critical than the plumbing orientation. You can make the plumbing work wherever you put the boiler.

The stove pipe should come up out of the boiler at an angle and go right to the chimney thimble. If you go strait up with the stove pipe, then horizontal to the thimble, you will get a load of flyash buildup in the horizontal piece.

If I remember correctly, the S130 has a 5" outlet just like the AA 130M. You will need to run 5" stovepipe right up to the chimney connection. This keeps the exhaust gas velocity high keeping the flyash in suspension until it it reaches the chimney. The place where the stovepipe increases in diameter is where the flyash will dump out of suspension. You will want to be able to clean this area easily in mid Winter. -Don

About your floor you could rent a floor grinder to level it or do what don did with his toy/workhorse :^) and lay down either 2 inch brick or 4 inch 1/2 blocks(which is what don did for his boiler) on a bed of mortar and also butter the block or brick on all narrow sides and the floor to make sure the base is sealed.
It looks like you are limited on headspace so grinding the floor to level it is an option.

Don't forget to have the barometric damper installed near the chimney as well.
I don't know if having a 5 inch tee with a piece of stove pipe and a cap right after the first elbow to act as a fly ash catcher would be a help or a nuisance for you but checking with the ahs people will tell you if that is a good idea or not.
You could have a covered bushel ash basket right under the length of stove pipe to keep the fly ash in check and dump it as needed if ahs says a fly ash trap would not be a problem

Only 5" stove pipe I could locate was the split-lock and it ruptured wide open at the seam with the first novice operator puff back.
Take my word for it it is not a pretty sight scrambling around for a fix while your structure is filling up with carbon monoxide exhaust.
After i made quick repairs to 5" split-lock pipe I promptly ordered Heat Fab welded seam 6" stove pipe & parts and learned how to avoid puff backs real quick.
I substituted a Heat Fab Tee and clean-out cap for the first 90 fitting out of the breech and vac out the flyash at the Tee opening after ~ 3 tons burnt. May vac out flyash during a idle cycle...may also temporarily switch OFF fan for safety of a random start.

So did you go straight to 6" from the boiler with an adapter?
I thought it was recomended to use 5" up to the chimney for better venting.
But seems weird they chose an odd size.

lamina1982 wrote: ↑

Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 12:29 pm

So did you go straight to 6" from the boiler with an adapter?
I thought it was recomended to use 5" up to the chimney for better venting.
But seems weird they chose an odd size.

I did enlarge at breech from 5" up to 6"...and welded seam over the split-lok seam.
My guess is that more guys use more 6" than ever the 5" There is a cyclone before the breech that knocks out a lot of the flyash...depends what you want to worry about or not...every chimney is different, so hard to say what fits all...

Tell us more about your chimney and it make it better for us to recommend or not recommend options...

lamina1982 wrote: ↑

Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 12:29 pm

So did you go straight to 6" from the boiler with an adapter?
I thought it was recomended to use 5" up to the chimney for better venting.
But seems weird they chose an odd size.

5" is not an odd size, 6" is only slightly more common. I would use the 5" as recommended. It's not very likely that you will ever have a big enough puffback that it will break the split pipe. If you are worried about it, put a couple hose clamps around each section.

In my opinion, you will likely have to replace this stove pipe every few years so I wouldn't go buying anything expensive.

-Don

lamina1982 wrote: ↑

Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 12:29 pm

So did you go straight to 6" from the boiler with an adapter?

That's how I did it for my Coal Gun S-130. No complaints other than the occasional puff-back in eight years.

StokerDon wrote: ↑

Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 1:21 pm

In my opinion, you will likely have to replace this stove pipe every few years so I wouldn't go buying anything expensive.

Don and I have obviously had different experiences...my Heat Fab pipe is original from 2011...oh well...

McGiever wrote: ↑

Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 1:28 pm

Don and I have obviously had different experiences...my Heat Fab pipe is original from 2011...oh well...

My Selkirk Heat Fab is original to 2011 also. And it's still got a number of years left in it.

lsayre wrote: ↑

Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 1:32 pm

My Selkirk Heat Fab is original to 2011 also. And it's still got a number of years left in it.

Heavy gauge, full electro-welded seam, cold rolled steel, no hose clamps required and mo money.

There is a big difference between a lil combustion "BUMP" and a Bonified "PUFFBACK"

To each his own...I'm out!

Its a masonry chimney that goes up middle of house(2 stories) and then maybe 6ft above roof.
Withe the keystoker last yr had plenty of draft.

lsayre wrote: ↑

Mon. Sep. 02, 2019 1:27 pm

That's how I did it for my Coal Gun S-130. No complaints other than the occasional puff-back in eight years.

I went from 5 inch to six inch at the boiler