Aa-220 value used

Stoker, power-vented and gravity flow delivery to cast iron radiators and all this in new construction...this may be a first...IDK...???

Why no prod this time to the one pipe steam system?

My only thought with this was that a gravity hot water system would be less costly than a single pipe steam system to purchase and install.

The water is heated to 170 degrees and travels up the hot water riser pipe to the open to air expansion tank.
The water flow for the system in a cold attic is set up with a U turn at the base of the open to air expansion tank and in the process keeps the water in the open to air expansion tank warmer than the surrounding air.
The water flow for a warm attic is set up with the riser pipe entering the side of the open to air expansion tank and the heated water sinks in the open to air expansion tank and travels to the radiators below the attic.
The over flow pipe for the open to air expansion tank can be plumbed through the roof a foot or so above the peak with an elbow and screen in the elbow to keep out insects and vermin or it can be plumbed so that the overflow pipe comes out the side of the open to air expansion tank and drains back to the basement reaching a floor drain or the overflow pipe is plumbed directly to a laundry sink-doing it this way helps when refilling the system as you do not require a second person to bleed the air out of the radiators as all the water pushes upward out of the radiators as you are filling the system from the basement rather than opening the water feed valve in the attic.

The added advantage of buying pipe joints in bulk in 20 foot lengths is that is unthreaded and it will save money as the pipe must be measured, cut and threaded as the system is installed from the basement upward in any case.

A one pipe steam system could or should be looked at as well as it needs to be designed properly with a 3 or 4 inch diameter drop header tied together with both steam tapping's to deliver dry steam to the radiators quickly and using the correct size air vents in the header pipes and using steam traps for longer distances if needed.

I do not remember if the LL boilers are rated for steam though.

Using swymans experience with his new LL220 and the power venter is an eye opener for anyone else considering using one due to the amount of maintenance they require for fossil fuel burners due to the fly ash buildup.

Its fun to think about the possibilities as you have the potential for a huge amount of thermal mass with water volume in a gravity hot water system using hot water radiators or from the cast iron in a smaller number of reclaimed salvaged steam radiators.

Having a coal fired steam system with a drop header allows for a smaller stoker to make steam as the wet steam will exit the steam jacket into the two or more tapping's which increases the efficiency of the steam boiler an order of magnitude for each additional tapping as the low pressure wet steam is allowed to escape at a high velocity and fill the header pipe with dry steam.
At the same time it pushes the atmospheric air out of the header pipe or pipes and then the dry steam is pushed into the steam radiators through the automatic air vents on the end of the steam radiators or thermostatic control valve mounted on each radiator.

Th heat is shed using the electro magnetic force caused by the thermal reaction of the steel or cast iron radiator(s) for steam service or hot water heating having the radiators under the windows increases the efficiency of the radiator too but they work well being placed by a blank wall-this was how it was explained to me by a long time steam plumber. Cast iron of course holds heat longer so that is an added benefit and having temperature controls on the steam radiator allow for more precise heating if one desires that.

In a gravity hot water system or a system using circulators to feed hot water to radiators with hot water it is controlled by either the shut off valves being partially closed or the orifice disc insert that has a hole drilled in it to control how much water enters a hot water radiator at any time and how fast it enters as you want a hot water radiator on the first floor to heat slower than the second or third floor as the hot water will want to reach the first floor radiators first no matter what if there is no drilled orifice disc and the first floor radiators will be very hot and the upper floors will never get hot enough to heat the home.

Homes that have hot water radiators run into problems when the interiors are painted and the painter removes the radiator to piant behind them and discards the flow control orifice thinking its a piece of junk metal and then when the heating system is restarted or the control valve is reopened the balance created by the orifice disc(s) is lost and the radiator or radiators cannot heat very well on the upper floors.

Never allow nit-wit painters to use your wrenches and to then throw away your plumbing parts,,,or just do your own painting jobs.

Sorry for the typos, I just saw them ;^0.

I am going into my 5th season with this boiler. Bought it new and I use the powervent and seem to be the only one on this forum that runs this boiler. What you want to know first?

Swyman...
Got that chimney built yet?...
Gonna be a cold one...

CapeCoaler wrote: ↑

Wed. Aug. 28, 2019 9:52 am

Swyman...
Got that chimney built yet?...
Gonna be a cold one...

Had the cash, trouble finding a contractor and now I give up.....going to pay off debt and enjoy the misery of cleaning the power vent all winter AGAIN! I may just take on the task myself next year....not sure but I cannot upgrade boilers till I have one!