Got a leak!
Here is a pic of of 1 of 2 components that have started a small drip/leak. I have opened them and applied Teflon tape. Not sure if this should be a temporary fix or should I replace them.
Wondering why there would start leaking.
Also I drained off the boiler to relieve the pressure. I am guessing I shy let the boiler cool down before refill?
Thanks for your help!
Wondering why there would start leaking.
Also I drained off the boiler to relieve the pressure. I am guessing I shy let the boiler cool down before refill?
Thanks for your help!
- Rob R.
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Those float vents are notorious for leaking, especially with hard water.
I would apin that entire assembly out of the boiler and replace with a brass nipple, ball valve, and a new float vent.
Once the system is free of air, valve off the float vent.
I would apin that entire assembly out of the boiler and replace with a brass nipple, ball valve, and a new float vent.
Once the system is free of air, valve off the float vent.
- nepacoal
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Everything I have read always states: "let boiler cool before adding water". They never give a temp...
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Yup it does not take long for them to cool if they are circulating water.
Adding to Robs suggestion you could do the following fairly quickly.
Purchase a small can of pipe dope for the plumbing and you will have many fewer problems. Be sure to apply the pipe dope on the second thread of the pipe nipples to reduce any chance of pipe dope getting in to the boiler water.
if you can purchase an 1/8" bronze ball valve, pipe nipples and fittings great, if not the 1/4 inch bronze ball valve will have to do as you will need two 1/4" to 1/8" reducing bushings for the ball valve a second 1/8" pipe nipple and coupler for the air vent and then you can dry fit them and then pipe dope them together in a pipe vice or a good work bench with two small pipe wrenches.
You could make these fittings up dry before you install them:
1. 3/4 to 1/4 reducing bushing for the steam chest
2. 1/4 by 6 inch pipe nipple
3. 1/4" ball valve
4. 1/4" to 1/8" reducing bushing
5. 1/8" short nipple
6. 1/8" inch union
7. 1/8" nipple for the air vent.
If your plumbing supply house has 1/8" bronze ball valves all the better as you can use a 3/4" to 1/8" reducing bushing and then plumb it together using 6" by 1/8" pipe nipples and an 1/8" union and a second nipple for the and 1/8" coupler for air vent to allow a quick change out of the air vent. I am glad I got rid of the automatic air vents with my system as they fail even with soft water anyway.
You have to remember that the bronze ball valve has to rotate 90 degrees to seal. Substituting a small bronze gate valve will work too, you just have to be sure that the stem packing is tight-if it leaks through the stem when closed you have to make sure the gate valve is fully closed; do not tighten the packing gland nut unless the gate valve is closed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you have the steam jacket open it would not hurt to drop a couple of "Steam Tabs" in the water to help get the crud broken up and let it fall in to the boiler sump so you can drain it off later.
Adding to Robs suggestion you could do the following fairly quickly.
Purchase a small can of pipe dope for the plumbing and you will have many fewer problems. Be sure to apply the pipe dope on the second thread of the pipe nipples to reduce any chance of pipe dope getting in to the boiler water.
if you can purchase an 1/8" bronze ball valve, pipe nipples and fittings great, if not the 1/4 inch bronze ball valve will have to do as you will need two 1/4" to 1/8" reducing bushings for the ball valve a second 1/8" pipe nipple and coupler for the air vent and then you can dry fit them and then pipe dope them together in a pipe vice or a good work bench with two small pipe wrenches.
You could make these fittings up dry before you install them:
1. 3/4 to 1/4 reducing bushing for the steam chest
2. 1/4 by 6 inch pipe nipple
3. 1/4" ball valve
4. 1/4" to 1/8" reducing bushing
5. 1/8" short nipple
6. 1/8" inch union
7. 1/8" nipple for the air vent.
If your plumbing supply house has 1/8" bronze ball valves all the better as you can use a 3/4" to 1/8" reducing bushing and then plumb it together using 6" by 1/8" pipe nipples and an 1/8" union and a second nipple for the and 1/8" coupler for air vent to allow a quick change out of the air vent. I am glad I got rid of the automatic air vents with my system as they fail even with soft water anyway.
You have to remember that the bronze ball valve has to rotate 90 degrees to seal. Substituting a small bronze gate valve will work too, you just have to be sure that the stem packing is tight-if it leaks through the stem when closed you have to make sure the gate valve is fully closed; do not tighten the packing gland nut unless the gate valve is closed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you have the steam jacket open it would not hurt to drop a couple of "Steam Tabs" in the water to help get the crud broken up and let it fall in to the boiler sump so you can drain it off later.
- nepacoal
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One of these in between the boiler and new air vent. I use 1/8" air vents from supply house... Get whatever ball valve matches the air vents you choose.
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Webstone-41685-1-8-FI ... Ball-Valve
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Webstone-41685-1-8-FI ... Ball-Valve
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Last edited by nepacoal on Wed. Apr. 03, 2019 11:45 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Not sure if you have a Sid Harvey’s by you, but I would suggest one of there auto air vents. They can be taken apart and cleaned. I have 12 of them installed at different jobs and have zero issues with any of them.