New Solid State Timer

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Tue. Nov. 22, 2022 4:01 pm

I have not had good luck with the Hydrostat aquastats.

Well that's disconcerting, I've had one on my oil boiler for a couple of years now and really liked how it was doing. At least I'm not running my circulators off of it.

nepacoal wrote: ↑

Tue. Nov. 22, 2022 3:46 pm

My Keystoker has a dump zone so it would be wired differently than an EFM. For an EFM type setup without a dump zone, I'd wire this way:

A1 - 120v hot leg
A2 - 120v neutral leg
15 - 120v power (most use a jumper from A1)
18 - NO contact that gets power from 15 when activated. This is wired to ZR on your triple aquastat. Using ZR, the timer will not fire the stoker above high limit.

With a dump zone, you can wire 18 to B1

Thanks! The bit about wiring to ZR was a perplexity got it now.

I'm into my 7th year using my hydrostat and really like it. Did have a probe go bad but it was a $15 plug and play fix. I'd buy another in a heartbeat...

BunkerdCaddis wrote: ↑

Tue. Nov. 22, 2022 8:14 pm

Well that's disconcerting, I've had one on my oil boiler for a couple of years now and really liked how it was doing. At least I'm not running my circulators off of it.

They seem to work fine on oil units, I know there are many of them in service. I suspect the starting load of the motor on an EFM or Van Wert stoker is greater than a Keystoker or oil burner, but that is just a theory.

Rob R. wrote: ↑

Tue. Nov. 22, 2022 8:24 pm

They seem to work fine on oil units, I know there are many of them in service. I suspect the starting load of the motor on an EFM or Van Wert stoker is greater than a Keystoker or oil burner, but that is just a theory.

Ah, that makes sense and why running a RIB would fix that, I have a couple of spare RIBs I can pop one in to handle the load. Thanks for the input.

Revisiting this. How would one wire this up on a koker? My intermatic timer has 4 wires going into the box and none coming out. Hot, neutral, ground so the other must be signal. I know I'm overthinking this so and help it's appreciated.

In looking at the latest wiring diagram for the koker and koker lite, I'd wire it the same way.

A1 - 120v hot leg (black on my Keystoker)
A2 - 120v neutral leg (white on mine)
15 - 120v power (or whatever needs switching) (120v jumper from A1)
18 - NO contact that gets power from 15 when activated (red on mine)

Any grounds would be tied to the metal box (I don't remember mine having a ground).

Double post

nepacoal wrote: ↑

Fri. Apr. 05, 2019 11:37 am

The new solid state timer is working out great. I received the two spares from the manufacturer (Geya) today. It took a few weeks to get here but with them only costing $15 each, it was worth the wait.

Nepacoal - I'm going to swap out my timer for this setup detailed in this thread. However, on my EFM 520, I have three wires coming into the electrical box from the power source (black, red, and white), and then I have only two wires (white and black) leaving the electrical box headed to the high aquastat. I see in your photos that you have red,black, and white wires coming in and going out of the electrical box and timer. How would you suggest I wire the timer with my boiler?

It'll be the same as yours now.
A1 is 120v
A2 is neutral
15 is common (usually a jumper from A1)
18 is the NO that is triggered by the timer. (You have the red from B1 on it with that black wire continuing on to that high/low limit setup.

Your current timer looks good and should be fine if it's working. No need to change it out unless there's an issue.

nepacoal wrote: ↑

Tue. Nov. 14, 2023 9:05 am

It'll be the same as yours now.
A1 is 120v
A2 is neutral
15 is common (usually a jumper from A1)
18 is the NO that is triggered by the timer. (You have the red from B1 on it with that black wire continuing on to that high/low limit setup.

Your current timer looks good and should be fine if it's working. No need to change it out unless there's an issue.

Can you take a look at this wiring setup? My last timer with the black airtronics unit didn’t seem to work.

As soon as I turned my main switch on, the fuse blew. I’m assuming because I forgot to unattach the red buses/connectors (I got ahead of myself).

Please let me know your thoughts on this wiring and if it is correct, and if the red connectors should be setup the same as the previous pictures in this thread.

No, that will not work as wired. It looks like you have all the wires connected together so it would short out as soon as you turned it on. The red tie rail in the middle of the DIN rail blocks needs to be cut apart and inserted for the different sides of your circuit. I mentioned that on the first page of this thread. Take a closer look at my picture and note the small individual red blocks in the middle of the terminal blocks. Each red block ties the hot, neutral, and timer side to separate circuits.

Hopefully you didn't turn it on with all those wires connected together like that.

I did turn it on and it blew the 15 amp fuse that I have right beside the ON switch. Hopefully that’s all that fried. I have it screwed out currently in the picture to get a replacement now. Hopefully when I adjust the red ties it’ll be ok

Hopefully!!!
You'll also need to rearrange all those wires to get them tied into the correct circuits.

I know this is a big ask, but do you think you could draw a wiring diagram for me and upload the picture?