Restarting after some challenges and storm damage

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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Posts: 2323
Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
Location: Western PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Wed. Mar. 13, 2019 10:28 am

aka "Fines in stoker officially s*kk"

Been fighting my KA6 stoker the past few weeks after a delivery that had a wide variety of sizes plus fines in "buckwheat" coal. Been using about 50% more coal and CONSTANTLY changing ashes and filling the coal bin.

Guess I've been spoiled by the consistency of my supplier. This is the FIRST time I've had any problems with their anthracite in 5 years (bituminous before that).

So 2 days ago it went out. Another 2-3 weeks and the outside coal bin will be "purged" of this load, LOL.

(I spoke with supplier for them to look into their handling and their supplier's delivery to find out what happened. I'm not their only customer and sure don't want a good business to suffer for a temporary problem they wouldn't know about unless someone told them)

Second challenge, for opinions and suggestions????

Siding on one side of house ripped off from recent high winds. I am considering 'upgrading' when installing new siding. Likely changing the siding on the whole house eventually, but starting with this side because...weather. ;)

Standard stick frame on 16" center. From outside to inside: Vinyl siding, tarpaper, R11-R13 fiberglass batting, inside 2" XPS foamboard, OSB, pine tongue and groove (finished only on one side).

This section is above a porch roof and is under 8ft high and about 50ft long with several windows, no doors or balconies. We live in a hollow and this is the wall that gets hit with the most wind, NNW facing, lots of shade. 2 inches foam is our non-condensing value in our climate (no condensing within the wall).

Goals: Greater wind resistance and thermal performance. Sound proofing is nice, but windows.

Option 1: Tyvek and replace vinyl siding. No moisture risk. No additional benefits

Option 2: 1/2" XPS plus vinyl siding. Moisture risk? Minimal thermal improvement, perhaps basic fanfold thinner foam to resist blowing air is similar effect (cheaper, no thickness issues to trim windows)?

Option 3: 1/2" EPS with foil to outside. Moisture risk? Doesn't 'seal' moisture in as much as XPS and foil radiant barrier. Foil may make vapor barrier but help with sound. Can affect cell phones and wifi signals.

Should I use Tyvek WITH foam? Underneath, then foam or reversed?

Without any knowledgeable advice on the above, I would default to Tyvek over existing wall (sans old siding), firring strips (for moisture breathing space), 1/2" XPS, vinyl siding. Basically an additional, airgapped wall surface.

Cost is a significant factor at the moment.

Input and opinions???

Oh- and for the fines and inconsistent sizing...thinking about just turning up the combustion air until it is gone. Thoughts???

Come on, SPRING.... ;)

 
lzaharis
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Location: Ithaca, New York
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
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Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Wed. Mar. 13, 2019 10:47 am

About your siding, it may be time to bite the bullet and just buy some cement board lap siding and corner pieces and then just laugh at the weather. My brother bought it in 25 foot lengths for his house and it worked out well for him.

I have no idea what type of pneumatic nails or if he used short cement screws but the lumber yard people will know what you need to use.

About your coal fines; would it be worth your time to screen the coal by using two layers of hardware cloth over a 2 by 4 frame and then just throw the fines in the hopper occasionally to get rid of them by pouring them on the sides of the hopper to allow them to flow slowly to the hopper throat from one side or the other with the screened coal?

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Posts: 2323
Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
Location: Western PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Wed. Mar. 13, 2019 11:02 am

Thanks for your quick reply ;)

Cement board can get cold here due to lack of sun. NNW side down in a hollow doesn't give it much time to warm up, so I'm concerned it would act as a heat sink. Our covered concrete porch is that way on same side (I didn't design the house, we bought the old family farm house), though it is nice on hot summer days ;)

If we were on a beachfront with constant/high winds, I'd definitely be looking hard at it. I looked at cement log siding some time ago. Some nice stuff out there and nearly zero maintenance.

I updated my other thread on the coal and will get some pics of the coal sizes and fines over there: Post by CoalisCoolxWarm - Lehigh coal vs Reading coal

I have used a screen for the bit coal a few years back. A buddy got me a good deal from a local supplier....yeah. That was the last year I used that furnace and that was one factor.

I watched one of those gold hunting shows the other day from Australia. They use blowers over there. Dump through the big steel grates, then progressively filter it down in size. I think about middle of their process would be 'just right' for my coal. LOL.

The questions on the siding and such may seem a bit odd, but this group is always looking at improving heating performance via black rock burners and building modifications. Quite well balanced approaches most of the time. Figure someone has surely done something similar ;)


 
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McGiever
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Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Wed. Mar. 13, 2019 11:20 am

Might seem trivial, but always seal the seams of the panels or wrap...no matter whether foil, Tyvek or whatever...every product has their own product and as well there are newer products for windows and doors that you cut to size, peel backing and use hand roller, then also for windows and doors there are even brush grade products with great elasticity.
Goes without saying, caulking and expanding foam everywhere you can see or think of... ;)

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Posts: 2323
Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
Location: Western PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Wed. Mar. 13, 2019 11:33 am

McGiever wrote:
Wed. Mar. 13, 2019 11:20 am
Might seem trivial, but always seal the seams of the panels or wrap...no matter whether foil, Tyvek or whatever...every product has their own product and as well there are newer products for windows and doors that you cut to size, peel backing and use hand roller, then also for windows and doors there are even brush grade products with great elasticity.
Goes without saying, caulking and expanding foam everywhere you can see or think of... ;)
Do you know of a decent and affordable foam tape? It used to be garbage that didn't last, so I haven't really used it.

Good advice, I use a foam gun a LOT ;)

 
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McGiever
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Posts: 10130
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Wed. Mar. 13, 2019 11:50 am

Foam tape as in, like used as a gasket?


 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
Member
Posts: 2323
Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
Location: Western PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Wed. Mar. 13, 2019 12:24 pm

McGiever wrote:
Wed. Mar. 13, 2019 11:50 am
Foam tape as in, like used as a gasket?
Tape to seal the joints in the foamboard. Sorry for the confusion.

 
User avatar
CoalisCoolxWarm
Member
Posts: 2323
Joined: Wed. Jan. 19, 2011 11:41 am
Location: Western PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KA-6
Hand Fed Coal Furnace: old Sears rebuilt, bituminous- offline as of winter 2014
Coal Size/Type: Anthracite Buckwheat
Other Heating: Oil Boiler

Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Wed. Mar. 13, 2019 12:25 pm

BTW, just found this link and animation, might be helpful.

Using Tyvek over foamboard

http://www.dupont.com/products-and-services/const ... indow.html

 
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McGiever
Member
Posts: 10130
Joined: Sun. May. 02, 2010 11:26 pm
Location: Junction of PA-OH-WV
Stoker Coal Boiler: AXEMAN-ANDERSON 130 "1959"
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: BUCKET A DAY water heater
Hand Fed Coal Stove: Warm Morning 414A
Coal Size/Type: PEA,NUT,STOVE /ANTHRACITE
Other Heating: Ground Source Heat Pump and some Solar

Post by McGiever » Wed. Mar. 13, 2019 12:29 pm

CoalisCoolxWarm wrote:
Wed. Mar. 13, 2019 12:24 pm
Tape to seal the joints in the foamboard. Sorry for the confusion.
Oh, ...sorry, cannot recommend one personally.

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