Coalpail.com Forum

i'll run the cables as i glue the conduit together, worked for me in the past with other projects.

should i make 2 runs of 14/2 uf from the house for the circulator pumps in the garage loop? the 250 foot roll of uf cable is cheaper than buying thhn and conduit.

i got some 18/8 thermostat wire coming too, i plan on putting two runs of that in conduit.

i'm assuming if i don't have the connection to the house that then i would need a seperate zone relay for the garage?

got a new taco 007 e new on ebay for 80 dollars shipped. another score!

i ordered another one of Dan Holomans books tonite. Primary-Secondary Pumping Made Easy!

The point of 1" conduit is to have room to pull the cable...
NEC also specs the % of wire fill based on type of wire...
Conduit is always better...
Because you can replace a shorted wire or add a circuit...
Direct bury...
Ya gotta dig it up...
In the middle of winter...

everything will be in conduit except the runs of 14/2 uf for the pump. i got a 250 foot roll for 49 bucks.
finding a lot of surplus stuff online for much less than retail. Thank goodness for online shopping.....back in the day dad and i would drive all over the state for bargains lol.

CAble lube is your friend and if you make the conduit joints all at once you will be able to pull the 0-2 conductor through it in a couple minutes of tugging as the cable lube will slick up the conduit as it is pulled through it. It also reduces any friction and possible thinning of the insulating sheath around the 2-0 conductor. This is true for all wires too.

Install the circulators conductor wire in conduit you will not regret doing that as you may have to pull it and replace it someday.
About the PVC conduit a good Greenlee tape snake and a Greenlee kellums clamp will pay for itself you will save a lot of time if you glue the joints together away from the trench as you will be able to quickly spin the PVC to get it to melt and seat in the other bell joint.

the insulated pipe and the 1/2" pex and the manifold will be here friday.
going to day to pick up a bunch of conduit.

also fixing the rubble basement wall by the breaker panel. electrician coming thursday to install 200 amp service. got the loose stuff knocked off and the mud washed off and i put a coating of portland paint on everything to get ready to start filling the voids as soon as it stops raining.

the garage will be about 12 foot from the back porch, if i ever need to run any future wiring i can run it out from the porch. the reason i am trenching to the basement is so i can get below the frost line with the plumbing, also closer to the electrical service. the back 21 foot of the house is over a crawl space, 7 foot of that is the original addition and it's real tight for a 7x12 area.

the manifold for pex-al-pex is here, the 1/2" pex-al-pex is here, i picked up conduit and fittings last night, also got an electrical panel for the shop.

the crew expects to start 4/25 and have the roof and the walls on 4/26. that gives me 4/27 and 4/28 to install the pex. then they come back 4/29 and finish the garage.

got 200 amp electrical service installed yesterday and guy from the township was here to approve my garage location. not a word was spoken of the sheds that aren't there on his paperwork lol.

the excavator is coming next wednesday to do the site prep and to compact the soil and he is also redoing the driveway, getting the top 3" of sand and organic material off (my dad had brown screenings on the driveway, what a mess!) then he is putting 3" of stone on the whole driveway, 6" in front of the garage and then compacting it and the stone he put down for the new shed driveway. i hope he digs the trench too, at least starts it so the mechanicals can be roughed in.

next thursday i have to have the inspector out to inspect the footings before the crew can set the poles.
they expect to have the roof on by friday evening, next weekend is go time for the pex install.

anyone willing to come help? i'll feed you good and make sure you get compensated.

i have to pressurise the floor heat pipes to 100 psi for 15 minutes before the crew can come pour the slab.
my air compressor is not hooked up tho......it's in the storage container right now till the garage slab is ready to drive on. not even sure if it works yet, a friend of mine gave it to me, he claimed it worked but it was too large for his small shop. when i moved i had to leave my other compressor behind.....i built it out of my friends scrap pile and my new parts and motor so it was his. it was a v4 emglo 2 stage. had to leave the af-150 behind too, and it has not been maintained since i left.

will a portable tire inflator be able to pressurize the system to 100 psi? i have a ryobi cordless and some electric ones that belonged to my dad and my uncle.

Rent one for the day.

As Scott has so kindly mentioned rent an air nailer-the double tank gasoline engine type for one day and you can regulate the pressure at the air compressor as long as it has an manual air pressure regulator on the outlet side.

why not fill the piping with water and when the sun hits it will go to 100 psi leave filled during the pouring process and keep a gauge on it for leakage. if sun its the piping it will go ski high. like 300 psi . pipe freezing weather is over for months

Air makes bubbles in wet concrete...
Fix fast before 'crete sets...

Yes pressurize with air, have a small form made out of 2x4s, like a 2’x2’ box, and have the splice repair parts ready to go, just in case somehow someone puts a hole somewhere in the pipe, you can hurry up and put the form around the leak, take out the wet concrete, make the repair, then screed the concrete back over, you should wrap the repair in elecectrical tape really well also. But hopefully you don’t have any repairs.

hmm... i better order some 1/2" pex-al-pex compression couplers then.