So i have moved recently,have mde everal posts about varying thoughts. I am currentmy use a keytoker 90 and using the oil funace to distribute heat, doesnt work great but i can keep the house 65-68 and when gets real cold ive been scrounging wood and surviving. The keystoker 90 did great at the old place but it was only 1000 sq ft
New house has 2 stories, full basement. Its about 2800sq ftnot counting basemwnt
Ive been planning on a ll ak180 and havebeen looking for used or a keystoker 150 or bigger.
Ive been thinking though...would it make more sense to get a boiler and use a water to air exchanger for now and down the rd set the house up with sole iron radiators?
I seem to enjoy reading about the axman 260s and such that stoker don seems to find so many of.
I know u boiler guys will push the boiler idea but what are thoughts and what would u recomwnd...like i said 2800 sq ft, 1880s farm house with new wimdows..unsure insulation, stone basement wiyh concrete floor. Wny, orleans co so less snow.
Idike to be low to mid 70s, i love sitting by the woodstove or coal stove and getting that radiant heat...thinking even a bigger forced air may not satisify that.
Let me know ur suggestions
Thats the layout., i have a masontry chimney up through house.
Was also thinking if oil gun back up just in case
Boiler vs hot air
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- StokerDon
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: Gentleman Janitor GJ-5, Van Wert VA-600, Axeman Anderson130 X3.
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Well, there ya go, you said it yourself. The hot air system gives zero radiant heat. If you do go the boiler route, a coil in the duck work is the quick, easy and inexpensive way to do it. After that you can add radiators or radiant floor. You can run both at the same time if you want.lamina1982 wrote: ↑Fri. Jan. 25, 2019 5:55 pmi love sitting by the woodstove or coal stove and getting that radiant heat
The other benefit you get with a boiler is coal fired hot water, it's hard to beat that. You can also keep your hand fired just in case you want to burn bigger black rocks or wood.
-Don