WL-110 Start up etc.
- ASea
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- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kast Console II
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I'm curious about the WL-110. Id love to see a video on how to swap it from oil to coal and the procedures for doing so. And then maybe a little of the daily routine. I guess stoker Don is just gonna have to add one to his stable so he can put it on YouTube.
- Canaan coal man
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I was just asking about the
WL-110 last week not many people own one on here. The boiler experts steered me away from the wl-110 bc it only holds like 13gal. My house will need more capacity yours may be different. But hopefully some wl owners chime in.
The 110 has a very attractive price point and I can sneak it down my basement steps witch made it another good option. If I go with a bigger coal boiler like efm keystoker or I will have to add outside basement access witch will add to cost of install.
WL-110 last week not many people own one on here. The boiler experts steered me away from the wl-110 bc it only holds like 13gal. My house will need more capacity yours may be different. But hopefully some wl owners chime in.
The 110 has a very attractive price point and I can sneak it down my basement steps witch made it another good option. If I go with a bigger coal boiler like efm keystoker or I will have to add outside basement access witch will add to cost of install.
- ASea
- Member
- Posts: 1156
- Joined: Thu. Nov. 27, 2014 8:55 pm
- Location: Athol Massachusetts
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kast Console II
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Coal Chubby
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114, Glenwood 30 "Estate" Warm Morning 120
- Coal Size/Type: Sherman Anthracite Nut/Stove from C&T Coal
- Other Heating: Peerless Boiler with Cast Iron Baseboards
Spoke with LL they said it would handle my heating load easily. I have a 1959 Ranch, new windows, attic insulation was updated by Mass Save with blown in a few years ago. Walls are lathe and plaster. I don't believe there is much in the way of insulation in the walls. I have cast iron baseboards. There is a forum member with a Van Wert 600 I am considering. Seems a bit more complicated? I also like the idea of a new unit that is relatively easy to swap from coal to oil etc.Canaan coal man wrote: ↑Fri. Jan. 25, 2019 5:24 amI was just asking about the
WL-110 last week not many people own one on here. The boiler experts steered me away from the wl-110 bc it only holds like 13gal. My house will need more capacity yours may be different. But hopefully some wl owners chime in.
The 110 has a very attractive price point and I can sneak it down my basement steps witch made it another good option. If I go with a bigger coal boiler like efm keystoker or I will have to add outside basement access witch will add to cost of install.
-
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I like LL and the people who run it, but it seems like you are talking about two different animals here. A VA600 has a gross output of like 150k btu/hr, while a WL-110 has a gross input rating of 110k btu/hr, which translates to like 95-99k btu/hr gross output, depending upon whether you use a diffuser and firetube "economizers". They differ substantially in the loads they would be able to carry for you.
Mike
- McGiever
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Where you are now with this the oil option seems very logical...But latter, In practice, guys here seem to set those oil guns aside and keep cranking the coal no matter what...whatever let's ya sleep well is how ya should go.
- Rob R.
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I can't see how the LL is any easier to switch to oil.
Also - do not overlook the maintenance required to burn coal in each unit. The cleaning frequency is not the same.
Also - do not overlook the maintenance required to burn coal in each unit. The cleaning frequency is not the same.
- Rob R.
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
ANY of the stoker boilers you have asking about will do a reasonable job if appropriately sized for your house and if installed properly. The rest comes down to personal preference and physical space limitations.
What is your heat load?
Do you plan to do the installation yourself?
-
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You can look at the WL-110 owners manual on line and the pictures show what is involved to switch from oil to coal and back. As I mentioned you need to do a number of things when the boiler is cold and welding gloves or heavy oven mitts will not help you with that.
- ASea
- Member
- Posts: 1156
- Joined: Thu. Nov. 27, 2014 8:55 pm
- Location: Athol Massachusetts
- Hot Air Coal Stoker Stove: Alaska Kast Console II
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Coal Chubby
- Baseburners & Antiques: Glenwood Modern Oak 114, Glenwood 30 "Estate" Warm Morning 120
- Coal Size/Type: Sherman Anthracite Nut/Stove from C&T Coal
- Other Heating: Peerless Boiler with Cast Iron Baseboards
Hey Rob, could you point me to the heat load calculation? I'd be curious to do one. I have a boiler man I would use to install. I want to be sure it's done right.Rob R. wrote: ↑Fri. Jan. 25, 2019 1:48 pmANY of the stoker boilers you have asking about will do a reasonable job if appropriately sized for your house and if installed properly. The rest comes down to personal preference and physical space limitations.
What is your heat load?
Do you plan to do the installation yourself?
- Rob R.
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 18004
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
- Location: Chazy, NY
- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
I have used the Slant Fin program in the past with good results, so that is where I would start.
https://www.slantfin.com/slantfin-heat-loss-calculator/
If for some reason you don't care for the Slant Fin app, a quick web search should bring up a few other choices.
https://www.slantfin.com/slantfin-heat-loss-calculator/
If for some reason you don't care for the Slant Fin app, a quick web search should bring up a few other choices.