To Gasket or Not to Gasket, that is the question

Do you use stove cement or flat gaskets?

Keystoker KA6 (KA-6), use gasket between stoker flange and boiler?

What about between hopper and top of stoker?

Inquiring minds need to know ASAP, LOL

I use the gooey high temperature gasket stuff on the boiler side of the stoker plate and I just set the hopper on the stoker and pray I can get the damn bolts in to hold it.

I would first refer to the manual and see what it says. But, there is no need for a gasket on the hopper. I would use Hi Temp silicon between the stoker and boiler.

If you intend to remove the stoker again, it's a good idea to silicon some flat stove gasket to the stoker and rely on that for a seal. Then the stoker will come right out with no mess.

-Don

I used stove cement. Probably would do high temp silicone next time.

Thanks for the replies!

The stoker has to removed each year for servicing, right? I've been doing it about every other year.

So you guys think the high temp silicon is better than cement? Guess that makes sense, but what temp did you find? I saw it at TSC earlier, but the temps weren't really high and made me wonder, so I didn't get it.

Looks like I'll be running to stove shop tomorrow for flat gasket (if they have it) and high temp silicone.

I use the high temp rtv below and added a flat gasket to the stoker opening in the boiler for easy stoker removal when required. It was a 1/8" x 1" flat gasket. I had to use 1/4" flat gasket along the bottom to make up for a slightly bent stoker flange

nepacoal wrote: ↑

Thu. Nov. 08, 2018 9:06 am

I use the high temp rtv below and added a flat gasket to the stoker opening in the boiler for easy stoker removal when required. It was a 1/8" x 1" flat gasket. I had to use 1/4" flat gasket along the bottom to make up for a slightly bent stoker flange

Ahh...I didn't think about the copper RTV. TSC had some kind of gasket adhesive, I think for their rope gaskets. I didn't see any flat gaskets yesterday

What about the gasket adhesive they sell? How effectively does the copper RTV hold the fiberglass gasket onto the stoker?

The stove supply place is about an hour each way. I *may* end up slapping stove cement (in the caulking style tubes) onto the stoker and putting it together, then getting the supplies for next Spring's removal. I think it would be easier to remove for servicing than RTV?

For the stoker's grate bed, I was thinking of cleaning the tops sides with a brush and filling in with stove cement. The grates are solidly held and I don't want to break anything forcing them apart to rebed them in cement- Yet also want to have them sealed for air.

Any TIPS on sealing the stoker grates? I read to seal the sides (where the grates meet the raised side lip) and the hopper side/top end of the grates.

I am thinking about cutting a couple of 2" wide/1/2" thick strips of fiberglass insulation to lay on top of the stoker before setting the hopper back down on it. I vaguely recall...maybe...some flat gasket material in there when installing a few years ago. Figure all it has to do is keep the coal fines/dust from slipping through and shouldn't add any noticeable thickness to misalign the hopper bolts.

IF I am going to play with the air, I need to seal her up. The ash and inspection doors need resealed, too, but that will have to wait a bit.

Opinions are welcomed!

the RTV works great and is easy to use. I ordered my flat gasket online, probably from Amazon. I actually called Keystoker to ask them about using gasket between the hopper and stoker and they said not to. That was on a Kaa-4. Why are you re-cementing the grates? Are they leaking. I don't think it is a normal maintenance item. My manual says to re cement if removed to clean under them....

nepacoal wrote: ↑

Thu. Nov. 08, 2018 12:00 pm

the RTV works great and is easy to use. I ordered my flat gasket online, probably from Amazon. I actually called Keystoker to ask them about using gasket between the hopper and stoker and they said not to. That was on a Kaa-4. Why are you re-cementing the grates? Are they leaking. I don't think it is a normal maintenance item. My manual says to re cement if removed to clean under them....

I read the same thing, but from a post here referencing the manual. The edges of the grates have some grooves where I presume the cement is/was. I was going to fill those in, since they all seem to be still fully adhered.

I do not have any reason to believe they are leaking, so preventative half measure instead of removing and recementing.

I can't imagine having 'nothing' between the stoker and boiler. How would it not leak massive air with just metal on metal?

Not between the stoker and boiler... That needs sealing. I was talking about the hopper and stoker

nepacoal wrote: ↑

Thu. Nov. 08, 2018 2:03 pm

Not between the stoker and boiler... That needs sealing. I was talking about the hopper and stoker

Yeah, that make sense

nepacoal wrote: ↑

Thu. Nov. 08, 2018 2:03 pm

Not between the stoker and boiler... That needs sealing. I was talking about the hopper and stoker

Ha. I should have read better. I dont gasket between hopper and stoker, just between stoker and boiler.

The stove cement worked quite well. I used a brass brush to clean the grooves on the sides of the grates and then fill them using furnace cement in a caulking tube and pressing it in tightly and smoothing with a putty knife.

I also sealed the top edge of the grates (near the hopper) and the two vertical edges there.

A single bead of cement around the opening on the boiler's vertical surface- after cleaning both it and the stoker's mating surface with an angle grinder and flapper disk.

It sealed nicely, though the bolts were a real PIA!

Remember, there is a LIP on the bottom of the stoker that has to be tipped into place first.

A fire is lit and waiting for it to come up to temp. Off to the races