Run times

First time user..as some already know...what can I expect as average run times. I know...loaded question, too many factors to consider outside temp...heat load...just to name 2...

I have this unit in series with my wood boiler(pics tonight ...ps..wood boiler is not going to have fire in it) with the circulating pump running 24/7 to the house. To start I have it on 3 teeth and the corresponding air setting. I have NOT purchased a timer ...yet...I believe I need to ...or not thus my question about run times. Since it is my first time and I didn't want it to go out...I increased my low limit to 155/160... In theory...if my settings are too low the unit will run constant..which is not optimal..correct?

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Whatcha running there, partner?

DooHicky wrote: ↑

Fri. Oct. 26, 2018 11:05 am

To start I have it on 3 teeth and the corresponding air setting.

No, do not use 3 teeth. Set it to 4 teeth and 4.5 air at first. Since your heating another boiler you will likely need to go to 5 teeth but 4 is where you start.

DooHicky wrote: ↑

Fri. Oct. 26, 2018 11:05 am

Since it is my first time and I didn't want it to go out...I increased my low limit to 155/160... In theory...if my settings are too low the unit will run constant..which is not optimal..correct?

Wrong, it will NOT run constantly because your LO Limit is to low. EFM recommends LO = 160 HI = 200, but you are probably NOT using a thermostat, Right?. If not, set the LO to 180.

-Don

EFM 520 btw.

WOW...those seem to be high temps Don.

My fear is the fire going out...how long can it set before it can't reignite?.

That is correct..I am not using a tstat...only concern is water jacket temp..because i circulate the water 24/7...so the Honeywell on it does everything that I want it to do.

If you are not running a thermostat into the triple aquastat, you are just using the LO Limit. Set it to 180, that is not too high, that is as normal as it gets with stoker boilers in Hydronic systems.

If you run it at 180 and run the pump through your house loop 24/7, it should run perfectly. When it gets cold enough for the stoker to run for more that 30 minutes at a time, you can check to see if you 1 to 2 inches of ash on the ash ring.

-Don

A couple other points to mention are, if you are not going to use the wood boiler, disconnect the stove pipe. Since the wood boiler will be hot, the chimney will suck the heat out of it if left connected.

If you have a good chimney draft on the EFM, and since you are pumping 24/7, you may get lucky and not need a timer. Pumping 24/7 through a house loop tends to lead to a short stoker run once an hour or so. That could keep the fire going.

-Don

Pumping only to 20 plate DHW and 50 plate heat exchanger for house heat...

The wood boiler has an induction fan with a flapper so it is sealed up air tight, that's why I did not disconnect the flue.

Still learning

If the short chimney on the forest eater is still open it will let heat escape.
If you can find a flue pipe plug for the chimney inside diameter you should plug it up.
The other worry is summer use as you will need to put several pots of Damp Rid in it
to absorb the moisture that that will accumulate in the firebox.

I have a timer running mine,but while i was reading this,it occurred to me that i likely don't meed a timer. I found that during a power failure of 4.5 hrs. the fire pot still had fire.. it lit up fine when the power returned.

I never recommend running only 3 teeth of feed. I kept detailed records for a few seasons and determined that 3 teeth did not save any coal compared to 4 teeth, but it did make the stoker run more time per day.
Others have reported the same results.

The answer on the timer is "it depends". Chances are good you won't need one with your setup, but it is nice to have one wired in with a switch.

Coming home to a cold coal boiler gives me flashbacks to burning wood...so I run a timer, just to be sure.

The new with the old

Btw..upped it to 4 teeth and turned on the garage floor heat...been running ..should have upped it even further..but would rather take a couple days to get the garage up to temp gradually

Ive been running a 520 for 5 years, Series tie in to oil boiler, circulator full time, One radiant loop full full time.
Without a timer the run times keep the pot at just a hint of glow. Natural draft seems to be enough. One outfire
during a very long warm spell. If the barrel seems to not go down as usual. about ten manual turns of the auger

keeps the fire high in the pot. Feel the pot tube for temp to check if fire is high enough, Too low it will push hot

exhaust down the tube into the barrel or bin. A readout CO unit can warn you early. Get a feel for ash production and

there will be no drama. Gary