Intermatic C8865

Post by **StokerDon** » Thu. Apr. 04, 2019 8:15 pm

It's going to take a little while for me to figure this out but, the timer and the 4006 are not wired right at all. Also, you don't even have the ZR terminal connected???

I do like the crayon drawing, much easier to understand then the digital stuff.

-Don

Post by **StokerDon** » Thu. Apr. 04, 2019 8:29 pm

You should wire it like it is on page 15 of the EFM manual.

.PDF | 14.4MB | DF520_Manual.pdf

In your drawing, remove the green wire from the 4006 and connect that wire to the ZR terminal.

Remove the blue burner wire from B1 on the aquastat and connect it to the 4006 where the green wire was.

This puts the timer hot wire in series with the triple aquasta HI Limit and the 4006 in series with the burner giving you 2 HI Limits for safety.

-Don

DonR · Post by **DonR** » Thu. Apr. 04, 2019 9:07 pm

At the start of this project I had the timer wired through the ZR terminal and kept getting out fires. The purpose of the hot wired L4006A was to eliminate this problem. It works great. If I go back to the ZR I believe I'll go back to out fires. When the seasons are changing and the boiler fires early in the morning it pushes the temp above the high limit. Many times there would be no draw of hot water from the boiler to reduce the temp and by the time it radiated off, to below the high limit, the fire would be out.

DonR · Post by **DonR** » Thu. Apr. 04, 2019 9:23 pm

Scottscoaled suggests that I should be running off my low limit, not my high. This sounds right and would eliminate all the short repeated runs ( like it doing right now) how do I do that?

Post by **Rob R.** » Thu. Apr. 04, 2019 9:53 pm

Don, if your heat calls often bring the boiler up to the high limit, it will skip timer cycles.

Run the radiant zone(s) off a relay that is independent of your triple aquastat.

Post by **StokerDon** » Thu. Apr. 04, 2019 10:27 pm

The out fires are likely caused by low feed rate, high air setting and incorrect chimney draft. If you correct these problems you should be ok. I would think an EFM set correctly, would be able to hold a fire even if it skipped a timer cycle or two.

I would also do as Rob suggested and run the pump separate from the aquastat. This will keep the boiler from running up to the high limit on a heat call, then over shooting after.

-Don

DonR · Post by **DonR** » Fri. Apr. 05, 2019 9:51 am

I'm certain the out fires are caused by the skipped timer cycles. The aqua stat also has to drop below the high diff before it will allow the timer to fire the boiler. I've drank a few beers down there baby sitting my system to be certain. The radiant floor computer also reads the outside temp and in the spring/fall mornings when the outside temp quickly increases it will retard the system as not to overheat the rooms. So once again, no load on the boiler.

The zones and one of the pumps is run off a relay. But here again, I'm a mechanic, not an electrician.

Olllotj · Post by **Olllotj** » Fri. Apr. 05, 2019 11:35 am

Maybe you EFM guys give your Timers too much time off, it's pin city in the Intermatic on the big green Keystoker.

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Fri. Apr. 05, 2019 12:23 pm

DonR wrote: ↑
Fri. Apr. 05, 2019 9:51 am
I'm certain the out fires are caused by the skipped timer cycles. The aqua stat also has to drop below the high diff before it will allow the timer to fire the boiler. I've drank a few beers down there baby sitting my system to be certain. The radiant floor computer also reads the outside temp and in the spring/fall mornings when the outside temp quickly increases it will retard the system as not to overheat the rooms. So once again, no load on the boiler.

The zones and one of the pumps is run off a relay. But here again, I'm a mechanic, not an electrician.

Running a nice big coal boiler into a frugal system is going to have problems.

More than one way to "make up" for this situation...may even take a combination of different adjustments.

Find a way to "build in" a "dump" to shed some "over shoot" and make room for an occasional "timer cycle".

Also make the wiring change to "run off the low set-point" instead of the "high"...can make even some more "wiggle room"

DonR · Post by **DonR** » Fri. Apr. 05, 2019 1:42 pm

Running a nice big coal boiler into a frugal system is going to have problems.
Yeah, I have had my share but I love this system. LOVE those warm floors. Besides, born and raised in Trevorton, got coal dust in my blood.I had the problems licked till this aqua stat problem. How do I wire it so it runs off the low set-point? Are there any down sides to doing this?

nepacoal · Post by **nepacoal** » Fri. Apr. 05, 2019 1:56 pm

If it were me, I'd get rid of the TT wired into the boiler aquastat and use that same MAIN end switch on the ZVC for the primary pump (removed from C1/C2 on the aquastat and wired to the MAIN end switch with 120v like the zone pump ). Probably be safer to set up some type of dump zone for safety if you do that, but I'm overly cautious. With no TT to trigger B1 on a call for heat, it would run on the low limit. I ran my old sf-260 like this, but with a dump zone too (hand fed and definitely needed dump zone)...

McGiever · Post by **McGiever** » Fri. Apr. 05, 2019 2:03 pm

See if this fits...

How to Operate Stoker and Circulator Independently