Intermatic C8865

 
DonR
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Post by DonR » Wed. Jun. 27, 2018 12:52 pm

I did a quick search and didn't see this covered before. When the power to my system is interrupted ,even when I toggle the switch, my Intermatic C8865 timer runs backward (counter clockwise). I'm certain of this, if I toggle the switch again it will run forward (clockwise). Does anyone have any experience with this? Also, how can I wire or jumper this timer so it will run my EFM 520 which has a Honeywell L7224 aqua stat during a call for heat? I have radiant floor heating and many times the calls for heat last a long time during which the system is just "sipping" heat out of the boiler as not to overheat the living area. The boiler isn't running during these long calls and since the aqua stat will not allow the timer to run the boiler the fire goes out. Thank you in advance. Don.


 
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BigBarney
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Post by BigBarney » Wed. Jun. 27, 2018 8:17 pm

This usually happens with cheap a/c motors they start in either direction

depending on where the motor stopped . Motors of this type are used in

places like microwave turntables where direction doesn't matter . Could

be a problem in the control circuit or defective motor .

BigBarney

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Wed. Jun. 27, 2018 8:46 pm

Don, if your boiler runs up the high limit and stays there for a long time, it makes sense that the timer can not operate the stoker. Assuming you have already cut the feed rate back to 4 teeth, some changes to the controls will help.

One way to avoid this is to wire the timer circuit through a separate high limit aquastat, and then to the stoker. By doing it this way you can set the high limit on the triple aquastat at a lower temperature.

e.g. high limit on the 7224 at 180, separate high limit at 200.

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Wed. Jun. 27, 2018 11:44 pm

DonR wrote:
Wed. Jun. 27, 2018 12:52 pm
The boiler isn't running during these long calls and since the aqua stat will not allow the timer to run the boiler the fire goes out. Thank you in advance. Don.

Me thinks that is backwards...timer "switch cycle" is suppose to not cycle on only when boiler temp has hit the high limit. Boiler temp then must drop by the differential amount to have it permit the timer switch to cycle on again.
BTW: The "repeat timer" clock motor is never supposed to stop running just keeps repeating. It runs non stop 24/7 and the "switch operation" is what is cycled on and off, but, only with permission from the high limit.
Some owners will use ZR terminal to allow this. Others will use a separate L6006 using NC contact for skipping the timer cycle at a higher setting, like what Rob R mentioned above.

Time to order a new timer clock motor replacement unit. And some cleaning of gears before a very small amount of "turbine oil" is applied at turning gear shaft mounts. Turbine oil is shown elsewhere in another thread. ;)

 
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Post by anthony7812 » Thu. Jun. 28, 2018 6:10 am

DonR,
I have had the same issue with the same timer for about 4 years. Figured once the heating calls become more frequent in cold weather it isnt a concern anymore. If I kill the power to do a cleaning its always a go to check. Maybe once during a nighttime power loss did i miss it and have a mess to clean up a day or so later.

 
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Post by Scottscoaled » Thu. Jun. 28, 2018 3:19 pm

You guys are going to make me come out of retirement the hard way!

 
DonR
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Post by DonR » Thu. Jun. 28, 2018 6:14 pm

I bought the timer in January so I contacted Intermatic and their response was once the timer motor runs in reverse there is no fix, file a warranty claim, which I am doing. The high limit isn't stopping the boiler from firing as much of the time it's below the high limit. I didn't know that the aqua stat has to go below the diff before it will allow the timer to fire the boiler. This makes sense, I knew I was missing something. And yes, the only time this is a problem is during the season change when demand on the system is low and it takes the boiler a long time to drop temp. I do have the timer wired to the ZR terminal. It sounds like wiring a separate high limit aqua stat to the boiler is the way to go. Can someone break out the crayons and draw me a picture? I'm a mechanic, not an electrician, as I'm sure you can tell.


 
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Post by McGiever » Thu. Jun. 28, 2018 10:09 pm

I'm stumped, a working controls arrangement for a heat sipping radiant load while needing at the same time to keep a coal fire to always remain lit, needs to come from someone who has already made all the mistakes and already knows what won't work.
I'm Out! :whistle:

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Fri. Jun. 29, 2018 5:33 am

Don, instead of having that timer wire go to the ZR terminal, it will pass through a separate aquastat and then come back to the power wire for your stoker motor (starts at the B1 terminal in your current aquastat).

They make aquastats that you can strap on to a section of pipe, but it is better if you have a tapping on the boiler that you can use. Most EFM's have a few 1/2" tappings that are not used, so look yours over and see what you can do.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-L4006A2007- ... -5481000-p

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-121371A-1-2 ... -3712000-p

 
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Post by DonR » Mon. Oct. 29, 2018 7:19 pm

Time for an update. Intermatic was very good about the warranty, sent me a new timer no questions asked. Didn't even want the old timer back. I wired in a high limit aqua stat as Rob suggested, installed a new well in the boiler. The EFM is running great, no more out fires! I would like to thank everyone again, if not for this forum I would never had been able to pull this off. Don R

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. Oct. 29, 2018 7:28 pm

DonR wrote:
Mon. Oct. 29, 2018 7:19 pm
Time for an update. Intermatic was very good about the warranty, sent me a new timer no questions asked. Didn't even want the old timer back. I wired in a high limit aqua stat as Rob suggested, installed a new well in the boiler. The EFM is running great, no more out fires! I would like to thank everyone again, if not for this forum I would never had been able to pull this off. Don R
Don, thanks for letting us know how you made out. It isn't often that anyone listens to me. 8-)

 
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Post by StokerDon » Mon. Oct. 29, 2018 7:31 pm

And it's even less often that people report back after their problem was fix by advise given here.

Thank you!

 
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Post by DonR » Sun. Mar. 31, 2019 10:43 am

Help! Went down to check the furnace this am and smelled steam. The triple aqua was tripped. Error code 4, B1 fault, check B1 wiring/ voltage. The safety was spitting steam. I killed power and turned it back on. Boiler temp was 276! I bled off hot water, got it down to 220. I had to leave for work so I checked to make sure the timer would run it, it did. There was a lot of fire in the box for how warm it is out. I've noticed over the winter sometimes when it's running and shuts off it will restart right away as the other aquastat takes over.( Triple or high). Also once or twice it will turn on and turn off within a couple seconds? I didn't have time to check anything this am. Any thoughts. Don R

 
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Mar. 31, 2019 11:11 am

Something is not wired or working right...sounds like 2 issues...
L4006 should of shut down boiler way befor the 276*F you were seeing.

 
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Post by DonR » Sun. Mar. 31, 2019 1:18 pm

Yes, so it sounds like a problem with the L7224. I was wondering if the B1 wiring issue could be caused by having the high aquastat wired into the burner along with the L7224. At times they both have to be powering it. Or is the L7224 faulty? Thanks. Don


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