How do I use my Keystoker Lite efficiently?

Thanks Titleist. There is a small hole on the bottom of my furnace just behind the hinges of the small door. Can the Dwyer be installed using that hole? Then one I am using keeps showing me 0.00 in. H2O. I do apologize for all of the posts, but like I said, I am nearing the auction block with this Stoker.

mdprincipal wrote: ↑

Sun. Mar. 18, 2018 10:30 am

I do apologize for all of the posts, but like I said, I am nearing the auction block with this Stoker.

No apology necessary, the more details we get the better we can help. Stick around, these guys will get you heading in the right direction.

I just adjusted the draft a little, the manometer still reads 0.0 and the system shut itself off. I think I give up. Does anybody want a Keystoker Lite for really cheap? I think I'm headed to wood burning.

mdprincipal wrote: ↑

Sun. Mar. 18, 2018 10:39 am

I think I give up. Does anybody want a Keystoker Lite for really cheap? I think I'm headed to wood burning.

Really... you would give up an automatic coal appliance to be a wood slave? I think you just need to make some adjustments to your cold air return and get your draft right. Then it's "Easy Street"

The adjustments seem to be out of my league, and the only one around to help is he who installed the mess. I am still burning wood to compensate for the Koker. It's killing me and I think I have found my limit of frustration. I do apologize for the rant on this thread, but thought this would be a bit easier that it has turned out to be.

mdprincipal wrote: ↑

Sun. Mar. 18, 2018 10:30 am

Thanks Titleist. There is a small hole on the bottom of my furnace just behind the hinges of the small door. Can the Dwyer be installed using that hole? Then one I am using keeps showing me 0.00 in. H2O. I do apologize for all of the posts, but like I said, I am nearing the auction block with this Stoker.

Don't send it to auction just yet!! Once you get it dialed in you may find you like the heat with less effort and mess than wood! You are not alone with the initial frustration, there is a slight learning curve but it is well worth it IMO. There are countless people that have switched from burning wood, persevered through the learning curve and won't go back to wood! The keystoker users here and even a call to keystoker itself if necessary will probably get you dialed in on the stoker settings.

The tubing that comes with the dwyer cannot be put in the flue pipe or stove or it would melt from the heat. Some people use brake line others use small diameter copper tubing (refrigerator water line size) to stand up to the heat and then transition to the manometer tubing.

On my stoker there is a port that has an allen head bolt which when removed allows the copper tubing to be inserted to get a firebox pressure reading. Somebody with a keystoker could probably tell you if yours has something similar or a call to keystoker would also work.

On my flue pipe i have a hole sized for a threaded fitting that the copper tubing connects to. I take the firebox reading when I fire up in the beginning of the heating season to make sure the combustion fan baffle plate isn't open too much. But then after that I leave the manometer connected to the flue pipe and only occasionally take a firebox reading (maybe twice a season) to make sure things haven't changed for some reason.

I am not familiar with setting up a direct vent other than knowing a manometer is needed to balance it. Its good you have CO detectors. Remember to swap them out when they get about 5 years old. I rotate mine so they are various ages and wouldn't all go bad about the same time. And also it doesn't hurt as much spending money for 1 every couple years rather than 3 all at once!

mdprincipal wrote: ↑

Sun. Mar. 18, 2018 10:53 am

The adjustments seem to be out of my league, and the only one around to help is he who installed the mess. I am still burning wood to compensate for the Koker. It's killing me and I think I have found my limit of frustration. I do apologize for the rant on this thread, but thought this would be a bit easier that it has turned out to be.

This stuff isn't out of anyone's league. Read, research, learn and do. I once knew absolutely nothing about burning coal. I didn't even burn wood, other than in a barrel stove in my garage.

We're here to help.

Where do you live? Perhaps there is a forum member nearby that would be willing to help you sort this out.

Does this Direct Vent have the "T" handle on it?

If so, that controls the amount of draft getting 'pushed' outdoors thru flue pipe.

It does not have a T-handle. I live in Conneautville, PA.

How about a few more pics.....of the controls and fans on the back of the stoker and a few of the direct vent from different views? Maybe one of that hole you mentioned by the hinges of the upper door.

Even if you decide to eventually get rid of the coal burner you won't waste your money on a manometer since the wood burner can benefit from that as well.

Thanks for posting those pics...that will help a lot.

Here is another members Keystoker Direct Vent showing a T-handle used to "throttle" exhaust output:

You have to loosen the ALLEN setscrew and it should move in and out with the T-Handle, sometimes it gets gummed up with ash and its hard to move it, tap on it with a hammer if need to. It must adjusted with a draft gauge properly. I believe IN in less draft on the stove, out is more draft. it's doesn't take much to change the draft, so be careful if you have to adjust it.
I have my draft gauge permanently mounted, i can tell when it needs cleaned, the draft starts going down a bit.

From the manual:

After a fire has been established and the stove is warmed up, a draft reading should now be taken. Use pre-drilled hole on side of ash door frame and insert draft gauge. Draft gauge should read between -.02 to -.04. The combustion air shutter is preset at factory.
If any further adjustment is needed to obtain proper draft reading . . . slide adjusting rod (located in rear of venter) in or out to obtain proper draft. Secure adjustment rod with set screw.