KA6 Timer Replacement

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. Mar. 26, 2018 10:36 am

You can pass through switched timer power through the ZR circuit in the triple aquastat, or add a separate Honeywell aquastat. For a Keystoker, I would suggest a separate Honeywell for a high limit to help avoid outfires.

 
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Mar. 26, 2018 11:17 am

Zinj wrote:
Fri. Mar. 23, 2018 11:32 am
Looking at the aquastat, the high limit was wired in parallel to the thermostat. Correct me if im wrong ( standard electrician not a controls guy here), I'd have to add a relay to cut the timer power?
Edit: high limit is single pole.
If you have a unused port or well in boiler vessel you would add one of these aquastats to "open" the circuit (NC contact) to the "burner" upon reaching a high set point...that way it prevents a "run away" "stuck" timer fault from overheating/boiling.

https://customer.honeywell.com/en-US/Pages/Catego ... 1&start1=0

I use a SPDT version and have a 120 volt neon light pig tail wired to the (NO contact) to be a light indicator showing when boiler is at over temp condition. :idea: The light will remain on and the burner will remain off until the boiler temp drops by the amount of the differential.



HTH
Last edited by McGiever on Mon. Mar. 26, 2018 11:39 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. Mar. 26, 2018 11:37 am

McGiever wrote:
Mon. Mar. 26, 2018 11:17 am
I use a SPDT version and have a 120 volt neon light pig tail wired to the (NO contact) to be a light indicator showing when boiler is at over temp condition.
That is an excellent idea.


 
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Post by coaledsweat » Mon. Mar. 26, 2018 12:01 pm

The high limit control should be right after the disconnect switch, the timer sticking isn't the only thing that can cause a runaway.

 
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Mar. 26, 2018 5:10 pm

coaledsweat wrote:
Mon. Mar. 26, 2018 12:01 pm
The high limit control should be right after the disconnect switch, the timer sticking isn't the only thing that can cause a runaway.
Huh? Not that it wouldn't work that way...
Please explain how a run-away happens after the "burner" (B1) is disconnected.

 
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Post by Rob R. » Mon. Mar. 26, 2018 9:06 pm

I think his point was the high limit in the triple aquastat can fail, just like the timer. I prefer to have the separate high limit last in the chain, that way the circulators can still work in the even of a high temperature situation.


 
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Post by cbowser1 » Tue. May. 01, 2018 9:00 pm

Having trouble with my TORK- 8301 timer. The pins are falling out when I try to adjust them. Anyone else have this issue? It is a product problem?

If so is there a better suggestion for a 30 min timer?

 
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Post by lzaharis » Tue. May. 01, 2018 11:24 pm

The Intermatic 30 minute timer is a very good timer, Just be sure to buy more pins for your stoker as the number of pins that come with the timer are not enough. I have my KAA-4-1 set to operate 4 times every thirty minutes otherwise I have out fires.

 
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Post by Qtown1835 » Wed. May. 02, 2018 1:35 pm

My intermatic came with 3 packs of pins. Way more than you will need. Mine is currently set to run 60sec every 10min and it has been holding fire fine even with 80* temps outside.

 
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Post by nepacoal » Wed. May. 02, 2018 5:26 pm

Intermatic C8835 is the model number

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