Water to air exchanger

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Qtown1835
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Post by Qtown1835 » Sat. Jan. 20, 2018 8:48 am

Looking to add a water to air exchanger in the garage. I have the extra zones prepped from last year's install. My thought was to ad a plate exchanger using boiler water then have a closed glycol loop to feed the water/air exchanger.
Question can I just feed the both the plate exchanger and glycol loop with taco007s I have on hand?
I'm assuming I will need purge point at the high point of the exchanger to purge air during initial intsall.
Are there any gauges to monitor the glycol loop once it's in place or do I need to manually check the dillution yearly?

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Sat. Jan. 20, 2018 9:11 am

Since the glycol loop is (presumably) to be closed, pressurized, and contained, I can't imagine needing to check it annually. If you don't pressurize it, the circulators impeller will be eaten away over time via cavitation. As far as I know, Propylene Glycol does not break down over time.

007's should suffice, and depending upon the BTU's required, and the footage and configuration (friction induced pressure drop, or friction head) of the glycol loop, may even be overkill.

Beware that the "specific heat capacity" of water mixed 50/50 with glycol is 0.85 (vs. 1.0 for water alone) so it will not carry as much heat as water alone, and circulation velocity needs to be increased to compensate.
Last edited by lsayre on Sat. Jan. 20, 2018 9:18 am, edited 2 times in total.

 
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David...
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Post by David... » Sat. Jan. 20, 2018 9:17 am

The glycol loop will need an expansion tank. It would be good if there was a pressure and temperature gauge. A relief valve is also a good idea. Glycol lasts about 5 years, it's the corrosion inhibitors that go first. Glycol can be tested with litmus like strips available where ever you get the glycol.

David

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sat. Jan. 20, 2018 10:29 am

x2 on the relief valve and expansion tank for the glycol loop. If the garage is insulated, you may find that the amount of coal required to keep it above freezing all winter is a good trade off compared to the glycol system.

A friend of mine heats his garage to 50 all winter. He said if you just try to keep it around 40, it will often be a sloppy mess and not dry out. Keep it at 50, put a fan in the corner, and things will dry out.


 
Qtown1835
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Post by Qtown1835 » Sat. Jan. 20, 2018 10:39 am

Thanks for the info. From what I've read 50/50 is overkill, it's more like 35% which brings burst temp down to about -4*. In any case I agree about the expansion and relief valve. I suppose I will need to do some digging on circulator size. I'm not looking to keep the garage at a constant temp all winter, just looking to keep my hands from freezing while butchering. Depending on the usage, I may just keep it on, IDK. 15-20k exchanger will suffice.

 
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lsayre
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Post by lsayre » Sat. Jan. 20, 2018 10:43 am

I keep my garage at 45 degrees, and I do not have glycol in my system. But my garage also gets heat from the bedroom zone of the house that sits above it.

 
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michaelanthony
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Post by michaelanthony » Sat. Jan. 20, 2018 10:54 am

Qtown1835 wrote:
Sat. Jan. 20, 2018 8:48 am
Looking to add a water to air exchanger in the garage. I have the extra zones prepped from last year's install. My thought was to ad a plate exchanger using boiler water then have a closed glycol loop to feed the water/air exchanger.
Question can I just feed the both the plate exchanger and glycol loop with taco007s I have on hand?
I'm assuming I will need purge point at the high point of the exchanger to purge air during initial intsall.
Are there any gauges to monitor the glycol loop once it's in place or do I need to manually check the dillution yearly?
Used sterling
...only 50 miles away

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