Another CoalVac

 
lzaharis
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Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 1:08 am

Putting the outlet under water works well too.

You could do some modifying by making a water proof box with a baffle in the center with the pipe outlet under water and it would act like a exhaust gas water fume scrubber used on underground mining equipment filtering out the exhaust particles and sparks but it will not be making steam.


 
titleist1
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Post by titleist1 » Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 9:00 am

lzaharis wrote:
Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 1:08 am
Putting the outlet under water works well too.
Underwater - Really?! :o I'll have to try that. I wouldn't mind saving $ on the filter bags if I could. The 16" of clearance Qtown has is more than I thought would work for filtering. I thought it would need to be within a couple inches of the water for the momentum of the air to carry the dirt to the water level. But the water turbulence in the barrel is way more than I thought you would get at that 16" distance and the black water shows its working!

I was thinking if the pipe was under water then it wouldn't allow air flow through it as the other pipe from the vac creates the suction? Does it somehow create water turbulence that allows 'pockets' of air suction as the water is cleared from the end of the pipe?

 
Qtown1835
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Location: Quakertown, PA
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker '81 KA4 (online 1/16/17)
Coal Size/Type: WAS Lehigh Rice (TBD)
Other Heating: EFM SPK600

Post by Qtown1835 » Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 9:24 am

The pipe that feeds from the coal barrel is below the water line. Im not following having the outlet under water. If I did that, i would suck all the water into the vac?
Water filter.jpg
.JPG | 30.4KB | Water filter.jpg

 
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windyhill4.2
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Stoker Coal Boiler: 1960 EFM520 installed in truck box
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Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 9:29 am

Qtown1835 wrote:
Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 9:24 am
The pipe that feeds from the coal barrel is below the water line. Im not following having the outlet under water. If I did that, i would suck all the water into the vac?
Water filter.jpg
You are correct. :)

 
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windyhill4.2
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Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 9:33 am

lzaharis wrote:
Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 1:08 am
Putting the outlet under water works well too.

You could do some modifying by making a water proof box with a baffle in the center with the pipe outlet under water and it would act like a exhaust gas water fume scrubber used on underground mining equipment filtering out the exhaust particles and sparks but it will not be making steam.
Isn't the barrel already water proof ??

 
lzaharis
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Location: Ithaca, New York
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 12:58 pm

Qtown1835 wrote:
Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 9:24 am
The pipe that feeds from the coal barrel is below the water line. Im not following having the outlet under water. If I did that, i would suck all the water into the vac?
Water filter.
The outlet stays above the water line. The flow of air into the water is created by a positive pressure gradient- PSIG. the flow to the outlet in the fan is a negative pressure gradient-HG water column.

All you are doing is pushing the air and coal dust is being pushed into the water solution just as diesel exhaust is pushed into water scrubbers to help strip it of particulates. The baffle slows down the migration of the flue gasses and particulates.

The baffle in a coal dust catcher would be there to slow and control the frothing/waves created by the movement of the air.


I am sorry if there was a missunderstanding.

 
lzaharis
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Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 1:00 pm

lzaharis wrote:
Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 1:08 am
Putting the outlet under water works well too.

You could do some modifying by making a water proof box with a baffle in the center with the pipe outlet above the water line and it would act like a exhaust gas water fume scrubber used on underground mining equipment filtering out the exhaust particles and sparks but it will not be making steam.
I have corrected my error-my coffee was not refilled adequately-its all :oops: decaff


 
Qtown1835
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker '81 KA4 (online 1/16/17)
Coal Size/Type: WAS Lehigh Rice (TBD)
Other Heating: EFM SPK600

Post by Qtown1835 » Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 2:20 pm

lzaharis wrote:
Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 12:58 pm
The outlet stays above the water line. The flow of air into the water is created by a positive pressure gradient- PSIG. the flow to the outlet in the fan is a negative pressure gradient-HG water column.

All you are doing is pushing the air and coal dust is being pushed into the water solution just as diesel exhaust is pushed into water scrubbers to help strip it of particulates. The baffle slows down the migration of the flue gasses and particulates.

The baffle in a coal dust catcher would be there to slow and control the frothing/waves created by the movement of the air.


I am sorry if there was a missunderstanding.
I get it now. That would be a good idea to try. Only issue I see with that is I would need to saw the barrel in half to install the baffle? I would like to try and maintain the integrity of the barrel. Im going to try the aerator approach first to see if that helps settle the agitation some.

 
titleist1
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Post by titleist1 » Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 2:36 pm

Qtown1835 wrote:
Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 9:24 am
The pipe that feeds from the coal barrel is below the water line. Im not following having the outlet under water. If I did that, i would suck all the water into the vac?
Water filter.jpg
Thanks for the sketch....i do picture manuals better than word manuals!! :) The pipe that feeds from the coal barrel is what i was calling the inlet pipe (since the air is coming "IN" the barrel via that pipe) and I wasn't clear that you had it below the water line.

This is an upgrade I will probably be doing soon since I need to redo the sealant around the toilet flange on the bottom of the barrel. There is a good bit of leakage that developed there and I'm losing suction. Its probably from me blowing warm air back into the outside coal bin the last few weeks to melt the damp coal that was in the supply pipe from the previous filling.

 
Qtown1835
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker '81 KA4 (online 1/16/17)
Coal Size/Type: WAS Lehigh Rice (TBD)
Other Heating: EFM SPK600

Post by Qtown1835 » Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 2:42 pm

titleist1 wrote:
Tue. Jan. 16, 2018 2:36 pm
This is an upgrade I will probably be doing soon since I need to redo the sealant around the toilet flange on the bottom of the barrel. There is a good bit of leakage that developed there and I'm losing suction. Its probably from me blowing warm air back into the outside coal bin the last few weeks to melt the damp coal that was in the supply pipe from the previous filling.

I used foam weather stripping between my barrel and toilet flange. Seems to be working well.

For the water filter, the baffle idea would be worth exploring if you have a removable lid to whatever vessel you will be using. By doing so, you could probably reduce the headspace from water level to intake.

 
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Pauliewog
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Post by Pauliewog » Wed. Jan. 17, 2018 12:44 am

The problem I encountered with submerging the pipe was that it created a fine mist which soaked the shop vac filter, and collected in the bottom of the shop vac.

I had better results keeping the pipe close to the top.

Paulie

 
Qtown1835
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Coal Size/Type: WAS Lehigh Rice (TBD)
Other Heating: EFM SPK600

Post by Qtown1835 » Wed. Jan. 24, 2018 8:49 pm

I made a modification to the "dip tube". I partially plugged the end of the 2" and drilled additional holes in the side more like aerator. It seems to have calmed the agitation of the water and increased suction so that the pickup is faster. It does not appear that I have lost any substantial ammount of water yet. I put a mark on the side of the barrel and it looks to be at the same level. I don't run the paper filter either.

 
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Pauliewog
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Location: Pittston, Pennsylvania
Hot Air Coal Stoker Furnace: Alaska 140 Dual Paddle Feed
Baseburners & Antiques: Fame Rosemont #20, Home Stove Works #25, Glenwood #6, Happy Thought Oak, Merry Bride #214, Sunnyside, Worlds Argand #114, New Golden Sun , & About 30 others.
Coal Size/Type: Stove, Chesnut, Pea, Rice / Anthracite

Post by Pauliewog » Thu. Jan. 25, 2018 12:03 am

Are you getting any water in the shop vac ?

Paulie

 
titleist1
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Post by titleist1 » Thu. Jan. 25, 2018 7:42 am

Qtown1835 wrote:
Wed. Jan. 24, 2018 8:49 pm
I made a modification to the "dip tube". I partially plugged the end of the 2" and drilled additional holes in the side more like aerator. It seems to have calmed the agitation of the water and increased suction so that the pickup is faster. It does not appear that I have lost any substantial ammount of water yet. I put a mark on the side of the barrel and it looks to be at the same level. I don't run the paper filter either.
Could you please provide some details on drilling the holes? They are all below the water line, correct? What size drill bit and how many holes? Did you use a 2" cap and drill holes in it to partially plug the end of that pipe?

Can you tell I'd like to limit my experimenting when I modify mine?!?!? :yes:

 
Qtown1835
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker '81 KA4 (online 1/16/17)
Coal Size/Type: WAS Lehigh Rice (TBD)
Other Heating: EFM SPK600

Post by Qtown1835 » Thu. Jan. 25, 2018 9:14 am

Paulie- No accumulating water in the vac. There is moisture getting to the vac but nothing appreciable that i would worry about.

Titleist- I will need to pull the pipe out to get some pics. I think i used a 3/8" bit? I drilled directly thru the pipe so there were holes directly opposite of each other. The holes are about 60* apart 5 holes each side, spaced evenly (roughly) over 7" or so. All total i have about 30-40 holes. For the bottom i used a dog toy to block the end...LOL I would just run to box store and buy a test cap to fit inside the end.
Image


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