Hydrostat 3250 Settings

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skobydog
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Post By: skobydog » Wed. Jan. 10, 2018 8:50 am

I'm confused with a few things here.

Why does the sticker of the door of my Hyrostat say "Low Limit: Factory set to OFF - adjust only if boiler has tankless coil". I set my high to 180. When I woke up the morning my boiler was 156 degrees. Tech support said I had to set the low limit if I wanted to maintain a low temperature.

I just wondered why the sticker on the door says only if boiler has tankless coil yet tech support I'm being told to set it (probably should have asked them when I had them on the phone).

The second question is setting low limit. If I want to maintain a boiler temp of 155 - 180 should I be setting low to 165 and high to 180 (high diff is now 10 degrees)? Also, after setting low does the jumper remain off of the board?


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20180110_083257.jpg
Last edited by skobydog on Wed. Jan. 10, 2018 9:32 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Rob R.
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Post By: Rob R. » Wed. Jan. 10, 2018 9:15 am

You can run a low limit on any boiler, but in the oil and gas world there is normally no need unless you have a tankless coil. These controls are intended to save energy, so they put that sticker on there to stop people from setting a low limit unnecessarily.

Do you have your zone valve/relay/thermostat connected to the TT terminals in the 3250?

Do you have an indirect water heater?

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Post By: skobydog » Wed. Jan. 10, 2018 10:02 am

Zone valve to TT, No indirect water heater.

I was only setting the manual settings for now to make sure the boiler was turning on/off at the correct temps. I have the hi at 180. low at 165, and hi dif at 10.

I'm not sure if I should try running a little lower temp. It was a little warmer yesterday and the boiler maintained a temp in the 160-170 zone which was working fine.

Does the jumper remain off of the board? I'll probably lose it but I guess I have no use for it anyway.

I haven't tried the Thermal Pre-Purge or any other settings yet.

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Post By: Rob R. » Wed. Jan. 10, 2018 10:51 am

Which jumper are you talking about?

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Post By: skobydog » Wed. Jan. 10, 2018 12:46 pm

Jumper "B"

It says not all models come with it. I am also wondering under economy mode if I should leave it off.
High limit.jpg
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High limit.jpg

Rob R.
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Post By: Rob R. » Wed. Jan. 10, 2018 2:45 pm

No need for Jumper B. Discard or tape it inside the cover if you want to save it.

Your timer should be connected to the ZR terminal. Set the Zone/Indirect switch to the indirect position...this will allow the timer to run the stoker as long as the temperature is below the high limit setting.

I suggest the following settings:

Low - 160
Diff - 10
High - 200
Pre-purge - On
Economy - 1

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Post By: skobydog » Wed. Jan. 10, 2018 5:26 pm

Rob R. wrote:
Wed. Jan. 10, 2018 2:45 pm
No need for Jumper B. Discard or tape it inside the cover if you want to save it.

Your timer should be connected to the ZR terminal. Set the Zone/Indirect switch to the indirect position...this will allow the timer to run the stoker as long as the temperature is below the high limit setting.

I suggest the following settings:

Low - 160
Diff - 10
High - 200
Pre-purge - On
Economy - 1
Thanks Rob

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Post By: skobydog » Fri. Feb. 16, 2018 9:22 am

The boiler was over 200 degrees this morning and the Hydrostat was reading an error ......... "flashing 250" all lights on top of aquastat flashing. When I removed power and reapplied it the aqaustat continues to blink and the stoker motor cycles on/off every second. Manual says "indicates the control has sensed a boiler temperature of 250°F".

1) Check that the sensor is inserted all the way into the well so it can accurately sense the temperature of the boiler water. CHECK

2) Check the load on the burner contacts: If the load exceeds the 7.4 Amp rating, the contacts may have welded.

I'm not quite sure how I'm supposed to check the load on the burner contacts .

I'm waiting for customer to call me back.

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Post By: McGiever » Fri. Feb. 16, 2018 10:04 am

Would say contacts not welded since motor is doing one second on/off cycle...but it may be more than 7.4 amps.
AC amp-clamp tester is needed for that.

7.4 amp contact rating is pretty delicate for some stoker motors. I would recommend a Safety Fuse to save an expensive aquastat. and/or motor.

You might try disconnecting motor leads to see how aquastat responds w/o it.



BTW: What boiler do you have? None listed in your profile. ;)

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Post By: Rob R. » Fri. Feb. 16, 2018 10:29 am

Not good. Has the control been working correctly up until now?

You can reset the control by turning it off, holding the red button on top for 5 seconds, and turning the power back on while still holding the button.

I love the functionality of these controls, but problems like you described are not acceptable.

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Post By: Rob R. » Fri. Feb. 16, 2018 10:31 am

McGiever wrote:
Fri. Feb. 16, 2018 10:04 am
Would say contacts not welded since motor is doing one second on/off cycle...but it may be more than 7.4 amps.
AC amp-clamp tester is needed for that.

7.4 amp contact rating is pretty delicate for some stoker motors. I would recommend a Safety Fuse to save an expensive aquastat. and/or motor.

You might try disconnecting motor leads to see how aquastat responds w/o it.

BTW: What boiler do you have? None listed in your profile. ;)
I think he has Don's racing stripe GJ with an EFM stoker...which should have a 1/8hp motor.

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Post By: skobydog » Fri. Feb. 16, 2018 10:37 am

Control has been working great. It was ok last night when I came home. (1/8hp correct).

I'll reset and run it. Give me a few minutes and I'll see if it shuts down correctly when it reaches temp.

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Post By: McGiever » Fri. Feb. 16, 2018 10:45 am

Thanks.
The reference for higher than 7.4 amps would be due to possible higher motor fault amps.
Running amps would be much less of course.

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Post By: skobydog » Fri. Feb. 16, 2018 11:07 am

McGiever wrote:
Fri. Feb. 16, 2018 10:45 am
Thanks.
The reference for higher than 7.4 amps would be due to possible higher motor fault amps.hap
Running amps would be much less of course.
The aquastat seems to be working after the reset. I guess this rules out contacts being "welded". .........

So, what's to stop this from happening again? Although it's safe to have high temp cut off I didn't think I would need one with an aquastat that's less than 2 months old. Customer support still isn't available. Unacceptable in my book.

I'm just frustrated that this happened and now I'll be wondering if or when it's going to happen again.

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Post By: Rob R. » Fri. Feb. 16, 2018 11:25 am

Having a separate high limit aquastat is a good idea no matter what. That should stop an overheating situation, but won't stop you from coming home to a cold boiler if the Hydrostat flakes out.

A while back I talked to someone that had some problems with Hydrostats on Van Wert units, and said he corrected the issue by powering the stoker motor via a relay. Perhaps the start-up load of a typical stoker motor is enough to make the control act funny.

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