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Robe0531
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker k6

Post by Robe0531 » Mon. Jan. 08, 2018 12:00 am

Hello everyone I am new to the whole coal game had propane boiler before i got a keystoker k6. The price of propane was insane was spending 350 ever two weeks
I got boiler all hooked up and burning coal but i just can't seem to get it dialed in. Having problems with feed and air settings. Was wondering if anyone is near lock haven pa and willing to come and help me how to get this puppy dialed in
Thanks


 
lzaharis
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Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Mon. Jan. 08, 2018 1:42 am

Are you burning un oiled rice or buckwheat coal or a mix of both?

How many threads out is your stoker set at? Is the damper door on the combustion blower set at 1/2 open position from the factory?

What are your timer settings? I have my hold fire timer set up to run at 3 minutes at zero, 2 minutes at 7 minutes, 3 minutes at 15 minutes and I have .02 draft.


Please delete this duplicate post
Last edited by lzaharis on Mon. Jan. 08, 2018 1:48 am, edited 1 time in total.

 
lzaharis
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Location: Ithaca, New York
Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
Hand Fed Coal Boiler: former switzer CWW100-sold
Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Mon. Jan. 08, 2018 1:45 am

lzaharis wrote:
Mon. Jan. 08, 2018 1:42 am
Are you burning un oiled rice or buckwheat coal or a mix of both?

How many threads out is your stoker set at? Is the damper door on the combustion blower set at 1/2 open position from the factory?

What are your timer settings? I have my hold fire timer set up to run at 3 minutes at zero, 2 minutes at 7 minutes, 3 minutes at 15 minutes and 2 minutes at 22 minutes and I have .02 draft.
These are the only settings that work for me. The flat grate stoker you have is identical to the KAA-4-1 stoker that I have.

 
Robe0531
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker k6

Post by Robe0531 » Mon. Jan. 08, 2018 8:20 pm

I think i got it the damper was closed all the way. I fixed it to half and seems to be much better
Thanks for the help

 
lzaharis
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Stoker Coal Boiler: Keystoker KAA-4-1 dual fuel boiler
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Coal Size/Type: rice
Other Heating: kerosene for dual fuel Keystoker/unused

Post by lzaharis » Mon. Jan. 08, 2018 9:56 pm

There is not supposed to be a manual damper in the flue pipe.

Are you referring to your barometric damper? Your barometric damper requires that the weight for the damper door is set on the right side and pushed all the way to the left and then locked in place.

 
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windyhill4.2
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Coal Size/Type: 404-nut, 520 rice ,anthracite for both

Post by windyhill4.2 » Mon. Jan. 08, 2018 10:14 pm

Robe0531 wrote:
Mon. Jan. 08, 2018 8:20 pm
I think i got it the damper was closed all the way. I fixed it to half and seems to be much better
Thanks for the help
Can you post some pics of your settings ? This would surely be far better than getting random answers about something different than what you are actually referring to.

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Tue. Jan. 09, 2018 5:26 am

He is talking about the damper (or flap, if you want to call it that) that controls the combustion air. Keystoker suggests running that flap 1/2 open and, the feed 12 to 14 turns from max if burning rice coal.


 
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windyhill4.2
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Tue. Jan. 09, 2018 6:02 am

Rob R. wrote:
Tue. Jan. 09, 2018 5:26 am
He is talking about the damper (or flap, if you want to call it that) that controls the combustion air. Keystoker suggests running that flap 1/2 open and, the feed 12 to 14 turns from max if burning rice coal.
I too thought that was what he was talking about, the response given was so "different" that i suggested pics to get both sides into the same ozone layer.

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Tue. Jan. 09, 2018 6:06 am

lzaharis wrote:
Mon. Jan. 08, 2018 9:56 pm
There is not supposed to be a manual damper in the flue pipe.

Are you referring to your barometric damper? Your barometric damper requires that the weight for the damper door is set on the right side and pushed all the way to the left and then locked in place.
He’s referring to the damper that you referred to when telling him your settings lol he said NOTHING of a barometric, you called it a damper yourself.

And that shouldn’t be told to people that that’s how a barometric damper is set up by the way, the only proper way is to set it up with a manometer. With mine all the way to left, the flap tends to stick open a lot.

 
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oliver power
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Post by oliver power » Tue. Jan. 09, 2018 7:55 am

hotblast1357 wrote:
Tue. Jan. 09, 2018 6:06 am
He’s referring to the damper that you referred to when telling him your settings lol he said NOTHING of a barometric, you called it a damper yourself.

And that shouldn’t be told to people that that’s how a barometric damper is set up by the way, the only proper way is to set it up with a manometer. With mine all the way to left, the flap tends to stick open a lot.
.........and don't forget the two different weight positions for Vertical, and Horizontal pipes (Barometric Damper). You all know how I recently stuck "foot in mouth", not even thinking of "The Other" pipe orientation. Yes, looking at a picture puts everyone in conversation on the same path. :)

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Tue. Jan. 09, 2018 8:25 am

Absolutely! Which is why a manometer should be used.

 
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windyhill4.2
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Tue. Jan. 09, 2018 8:31 am

Better yet,install a Magnehelic gauge ,easy.... no liquid to mess with, allows more time to play with dampers. :)

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Tue. Jan. 09, 2018 8:33 am

I use the magnehilic manometer also, looks cool! But I also have the Dwyer liquid and they both work the same.

There both a manometer.

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Tue. Jan. 09, 2018 9:29 am

A KAA-4 and a KA-6 have very different stokers also. So settings are NOT the similar/same, as was stated in the first reply.

 
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Post by k-2 » Tue. Jan. 09, 2018 9:58 am

Start with manual recommendation and go from there ,lots of trial and error. I dial my feed in and out over he course of the winter depending on avg heat load. You may want to find a happy medium and leave it there. Whatever you need to keep your water at the set temp. If water temps start to overheat you will have to dial it back some. Too much air has a tendency to push the fire off the grate as well as send too much heat up the flue. My stove is much smaller than a 6 but same principal parts.


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