Hydrolevel 3150 3250 - Thinking about Buying One

 
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skobydog
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Post by skobydog » Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 9:26 pm

The electronic temperature controller is working. I had to set it 10 degrees higher to get an accurate reading because the probe is on the outside of the boiler.

It's dialed in pretty good now. I wish I didn't have to go into work because I'd like to run it overnight.

Changed settings
Low 160
Differential 15
3 teeth but need to raise to 4

Temp controller 190 (180 actual water temp.)
Dif 10 (makes on 180, breaks 190)

Aquastat hi is set at 200 for backup. (It will be nice to have an aquastat that actually works). :)

 
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Post by Rob R. » Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 9:30 pm

If you install one of the 3250 aquastats you will not need the separate controller. The aquastat will target a temperature lower than the high limit unless there is enough demand to warrant maximum output.

 
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Post by skobydog » Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 10:24 pm

Rob R. wrote:
Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 9:30 pm
If you install one of the 3250 aquastats you will not need the separate controller. The aquastat will target a temperature lower than the high limit unless there is enough demand to warrant maximum output.
It sucks it breaks on a Friday AND a 3 day weekend. I'm just trying to get by until it arrives. I knew I was having a problem a few weeks ago, I should've addressed it then. :( :oops:


 
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 5:50 pm

You know, this is seldom mentioned when troubles surface, but the wet well size needs to match the aquastat's bulb size.
And sometimes there is a size mismatch and poor fit will lead to poor operation.

If when new factory aquastat is installed and the heat conductive paste is omitted before the bulb gets inserted into well the performance can be erratic due to poor contact inside the well.

That metallic paste is messy as all get out, but does work wonders. :)

 
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 6:04 pm

Agreed. I use the paste in mine.

 
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Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 2:56 pm

Which model did you get?

I am looking at this one for my KA6, but not sure which model to get?

https://www.amazon.com/Hydrolevel-3250-Plus-Hydro ... B00HS4TKY8

I really want the purge feature. In this weather the cold overruns the amount of radiant we have. Longer water circulation with less boiler run time would be good.

I have also been having the same troubles you did. 10F of on the top and this year I believe it is running off my high limit. I've been putting it off and I think it is about time- especially with so many having good luck with the now-mature technology ;)


 
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Post by nepacoal » Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 3:44 pm

A 3250+ came with my kaa-4

 
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Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 4:37 pm

nepacoal wrote:
Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 3:44 pm
A 3250+ came with my kaa-4
Thank you.

I don't understand how it works with the boiler temp and circulator. My circulator is wired through the triple aquastat now (and timer) but only TT from my zone controller. I already have DHW priority via setting on my zone controller, so won't need that.

If my zone(s) is calling for heat, what would the 3250+ do?

It sounds like it would run the circulator upon tstat call, until...what? A certain amount of time or a temp? What time and what temp, if so?

Would I need an outdoor reset then? Wouldn't I just want a low setting for low the temp setting? I don't need immediate temp recovery in the rooms, it can take time...or I can go with a smaller hysteresis setting, right?

I envisioned having custom controls by now, but had some health problems earlier this year, took me out for a few months. I am concerned that I may wake up one day and this current TA will be toast and we'll be cold :o

If the 3250+ doesn't do these things, I would be less inclined to move away from a proven name like Honeywell ;)

 
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Post by nepacoal » Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 4:45 pm

It has the same functions as a mechanical triple aquastat plus purge, cold start, and eco settings. I do not use any of those extra functions but do like the digital display and built in LWCO when using the electrowell

 
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Post by skobydog » Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 11:57 pm

McGiever wrote:
Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 5:50 pm
That metallic paste is messy as all get out, but does work wonders. :)
Thanks for reminding me
CoalisCoolxWarm wrote:
Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 2:56 pm
Which model did you get?


I really want the purge feature.

I have also been having the same troubles you did. 10F of on the top and this year I believe it is running off my high limit. I've been putting it off and I think it is about time- especially with so many having good luck with the now-mature technology ;)
I ordered the 3250.

It took me forever to figure out what was going wrong with my Aquastat. I didn't know this but for heat it's supposed to run off the hi setting. The lo is for tankless coil which I don't have.

For a temporary fix I am running a digital temperature controller from another project I had. It's working good. The temp controller just monitors and maintains boiler temps while the aquastat lo setting is turning on/off my circulator. I like that I can control the circulator on/off and stoker on/off temps separately.

You could use the temp controller for high safety cut off or low cut off in case you break a shear pin when you're away. I'm still thinking about these little controllers instead. The purge feature may be good in shoulder months but I can't see much benefit in this kind of weather.
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