Considering Home Coal Boiler Project

 
ScottB
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Post by ScottB » Mon. Dec. 11, 2017 9:58 pm

I completed checking over my heat loss calculation. The 1st floor checked out except for some window sizing errors. Total 1st floor (~900 sq ft.) heat loss is 26034 btu/hr. Central entrance hall/ stair way to 2nd floor checked out at 3154 btu/hr. I found a number of errors with the second floor half story data. The corrected data shows its heat loss to be 32781 btu/hr. The total for the main house is 50965 btu/hr., with the Addition data as posted earlier, for a combined loss of 84751 btu/hr.


 
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windyhill4.2
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Mon. Dec. 11, 2017 10:10 pm

Pacowy wrote:
Mon. Dec. 11, 2017 9:44 pm
You took on a unique and complex project and brought it to a successful and fully functional conclusion. Whether that was done by computer program or seat-of-the-pants, you still get the credit. :clap:

Mike
Thank you ! :)
I do have to credit farmer/mechanic ingenuity..... some.

LOTS of credit go to this forum with all the stored info on many systems & designs + all those who contributed ideas ,suggestions & links to outside info :yes:

 
ScottB
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Post by ScottB » Mon. Dec. 11, 2017 11:30 pm

Qtown1835 wrote:
Mon. Dec. 11, 2017 9:36 pm
Try downloading the slantfin app and see what that gives you for a heat loss. It would be interesting to see how your numbers compare.
I did. when I set air infiltration to be the same, results are very close. The slintfin app varies the infiltration by set amounts depending on exposed sides with windows and doors. Overall when viewing my calculation, it showed me I tend to slightly overestimate air infiltration with one exposed wall with a window or door, and consistent with slantfin with 2 exposed walls with doors or windows The other factors for doors, window, walls, were not the same but very close. Based on what I found, if I enter the correct data, my result should be close.

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Tue. Dec. 12, 2017 5:32 am

Allowing for 2" of insulation on the ceiling and floor, I come up with 17,380 btus per hour for the addition. If I select the "Sun Room" option, which allows for windows on three different walls and higher infiltration, the number increases to 23,742 btu's per hour. This is very close to what I observe in my own home in a similar sized room, with windows & doors on three walls.

 
ScottB
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Post by ScottB » Tue. Dec. 12, 2017 7:33 am

Rob R. wrote:
Tue. Dec. 12, 2017 5:32 am
Allowing for 2" of insulation on the ceiling and floor, I come up with 17,380 btus per hour for the addition. If I select the "Sun Room" option, which allows for windows on three different walls and higher infiltration, the number increases to 23,742 btu's per hour. This is very close to what I observe in my own home in a similar sized room, with windows & doors on three walls.
I plan on insulating the floor with form board. This alone would make a big difference. One room has windows 2 outside glass pane entrance doors and 2 windows on three walls, the other has windows on two walls. I'm confident with insulation and sealing, I can get it down to the 18.5 -20k range.

 
ScottB
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Post by ScottB » Tue. Dec. 12, 2017 7:40 am

Second sentence on last post should have been:
One room has two entrance doors with glass panes, and 2 windows on three walls, the other has two windows on two walls.

 
ScottB
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Post by ScottB » Tue. Dec. 12, 2017 7:51 am

Rob - When I change my heat loss calculation to include the floors insulated with foam board insulation, my heat loss drops to under 19.5k


 
Qtown1835
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Post by Qtown1835 » Tue. Dec. 12, 2017 8:08 am

Your main house loss of 50k seems more reasonable. My 50x30 block basement was costing me 33,000btu alone, main floor is about 23k. Like Rob suggested, insulate. I installed Foamular 150 in about half of my basement and it made a huge difference. I also blew in 18" of atticat into the attic and that was a noticeable improvement as well.

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Tue. Dec. 12, 2017 8:42 am

That sounds reasonable to me. Make sure that room is on its own zone.

Also, for the rest of the house - keep in mind that if you have multiple rooms on one zone, and you size the radiation based on the current insulation, any changes you make later may throw off the balance of the system. I.e. if you put more radiator in one room because it had an uninsulated wall, and later insulate the wall, that room will be warmer than any others on the zone. Closing the dampers on the baseboard will help some, but it might be better to split the upstairs into two zones.

Your house is WELL within the capability of a DF520. I expect you will find that it ends up doing a pretty easy job on 4 teeth.

 
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Post by ScottB » Tue. Dec. 12, 2017 9:12 am

I think where I'm heading is insulating at least the gable end-walls upstairs. That will make a big difference in the amounts of radiation surface area required to be installed, not to mention the ongoing coal consumption. Now would be the time to do it since they're not occupied and I'll be working up there anyway.

 
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windyhill4.2
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Tue. Dec. 12, 2017 9:15 am

Rob R. wrote:
Tue. Dec. 12, 2017 8:42 am
That sounds reasonable to me. Make sure that room is on its own zone.

Your house is WELL within the capability of a DF520. I expect you will find that it ends up doing a pretty easy job on 4 teeth.
If 4 teeth can't handle the job.... 7 teeth sure will get the job done.!! :)

 
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Post by k-2 » Tue. Dec. 12, 2017 12:06 pm

Rob R. wrote:
Tue. Dec. 12, 2017 5:32 am
Allowing for 2" of insulation on the ceiling and floor, I come up with 17,380 btus per hour for the addition. If I select the "Sun Room" option, which allows for windows on three different walls and higher infiltration, the number increases to 23,742 btu's per hour. This is very close to what I observe in my own home in a similar sized room, with windows & doors on three walls.

You would think the sun room option would be lower heating Req. But apparently the heat loss overnight outweighs the gain during sunny hours. I eliminate the overnight loss in my own sun room by closing it off from the main house at night.

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Tue. Dec. 12, 2017 1:00 pm

It is calculating the max heat loss based on the conditions provided, not the average load over 24 hours.

 
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vermontday
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Post by vermontday » Wed. Dec. 13, 2017 8:03 pm

We heat a 4,200 sq. ft.. home with an EFM 520. The house has a huge sunroom with a 17 ft. ceiling. The boiler EASILY meets our heat and hot water needs. I just changed it from 4 teeth yesterday to 5 teeth for winter as we are supposed to get below 0 with heavy winds.
However, it was more for my entertainment switching to 5 teeth as it was just sitting there waiting for a heat call at 4 teeth.
After you get a 520 you will laugh at yourself for ever doubting it's capability. This isn't an under sized oil or wood boiler. This is a beast with a terrific automatic turndown when you don't need the btu's.

 
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Post by k-2 » Wed. Dec. 13, 2017 8:14 pm

From what iv read the 520 is sometimes used in apt. buildings and light commercial applications. A single stove could probably handle several well insulated homes. Or one or two uninsulated ones. Im sure it can out perform a wood stove now heating the home


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