Solder Corrosion

 
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franpipeman
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Post by franpipeman » Wed. Nov. 22, 2017 8:43 pm

i saw it my mistake

 
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gaw
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Post by gaw » Wed. Nov. 22, 2017 11:08 pm

I have had good results with this new solder and flux from the big box stores. It is a much stronger bond according to the advertised specs. I use an oxy acetylene torch just like you use for welding or brazing, plenty of heat. I never had white powder corrosion; your water is not acid is it? But that should eat the copper too.

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 7:14 am

The new solder works fine with decent flux, but you need a good torch. The fluffy white flux sucks. It is ok on small copper, but if you try to use it in a large brass fitting it is real easy to burn the flux before the fitting is hot enough to take solder.

Oatey No. 5 or Nokorode Regular flux for me.

 
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franpipeman
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Post by franpipeman » Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 7:41 am

I like a turbo torch as distance from pipe gives your temperature variance but tip size is just as important
Just a note about flux and non soldered joints, on two instances I was called to a large hvac hydronic heating project and a severe flood occurred. Ultimately after one year a joint that was fluxed, then corroded but never soldered let loose and , yes water make up valve enabled a large volume of water to leak out. The astonishment is , that joint did not leak a drop of water for one year at 30 psi, 180 degrees and multiple cool heat cycles until it said it had enough.


 
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franpipeman
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Post by franpipeman » Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 7:43 am

Does this system have a lot of water exchange

 
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McGiever
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Post by McGiever » Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 9:08 am

X2 for Oatey #5 flux...and you CAN get it at the orange big box store.
X2 on acetylene fuel in a "B" or PrestOLight tank w/ turbo-torch...enough heat quick.

 
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Post by nepacoal » Thu. Nov. 23, 2017 9:43 am

I had good results with Oatey no. 95 tinning flux...

 
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Post by bradludwig » Thu. Dec. 28, 2017 9:27 pm

McMaster Carr has 50/50 lead/silver. Not cheap but works very well for heating systems.


 
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Post by Rob R. » Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 8:04 am

I have some Oatey "Safe-flo" solder that I used for potable water piping. It is not as nice to work with as 50/50, but it is better than 95/5.

https://www.oatey.com/2374320/Product/Oatey-Safe- ... ire-Solder

 
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Post by coaledsweat » Fri. Dec. 29, 2017 3:12 pm

I won't do repairs on my hydronic heating system without the 50/50. Way to much grief.

 
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Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 1:09 am

MAPP gas trigger ignite torch that works in any position.
White water soluble flux
50/50 or other solder
GOOD brushes and wire inside and outside cleaners
Emery cloth
CLEAN cloth to wipe joint before soldering- do NOT touch soldering area with your hands. Keep it CLEAN!

Heat the thicker piece first (ie fitting) and evenly, then heat the pipe while applying solder. Orient piece so solder can flow downhill if possible and the fitting will not slip apart when solder "floats" the joint.

If your old solder is white and pitted, it all has to come off. Just do it and start over on the joint. You'll be glad you did ;)

Why? Maybe the joint wasn't heated enough, the solder was contaminated (dull looking, dirty), or something else.

Good luck!

 
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Post by creek44 » Sun. Dec. 31, 2017 8:31 am

This is a great resource for soldering and brazing. I use their products since it is well referenced as to what is compatible for the project at hand.
http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/~/media/Files/ ... dering.pdf

 
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Post by Phil May » Mon. Jan. 01, 2018 2:24 pm

Thanks all good info

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