Difference between a Keystoker KA6 and KFA

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memco man
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Post by memco man » Sat. Nov. 25, 2017 9:42 am

Thank you for the tip did the furnace cement hold up to the heat? I saw you post and was wondering how it worked out by the pictures it looked really good.

Thanks again
memco


 
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Post by McGiever » Sun. Nov. 26, 2017 12:11 am

Keep a cup of water handy and use a wet finger to get a glass like smooth finish with furnace cement.

 
memco man
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Post by memco man » Sun. Nov. 26, 2017 8:55 pm

Thanks McGiever I got the tunnels welded on today and paint on the bottom and the back getting closer to getting it down in the basement
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It is going to warm up again so I hope to pressure test it again this week to check out my welds I don't think that they leak but I would rather find out now then later

Have a good evening
memco

 
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Post by CoalJockey » Sun. Nov. 26, 2017 9:36 pm

Very nice looking welds...you've been around the block a time or two. Did you do that shielded arc or was that a wire machine?

I went to school for it and was certified on all positions for stick, I should be able to tell. I just cant quite get zoomed in on your photos enough to be able to tell.

Either way...very nice :yes:

 
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Post by memco man » Mon. Nov. 27, 2017 9:27 pm

Good evening everyone Thank you coalJockey that was done with a Lincoln SP 140 T it a small 110 v welder and I pushed it to the max I used .030 er70s-6 wire and put a little weave in it it should have been done with a .035 wire I probable should have taken it to my shop and used a bigger welder on it ,the welder I used is designed 3/16 wire and 1/4 in flux core I also got certified in 2011 SMAW all positions with 7018 (3/32 & 1/8 ) from 1/4 to 3/4 inch I also got my cert for FCAW .045 all positions same thickness I know that this is contrary to most welders but I like a good 7018 rod over wire feed it may be slower but you get a better weld better penetration and stronger weld in less you are using a outer shield flux core with a 75/25 meatal mix then you get a really smooth and strong weld comparable to a 7018
Sorry I got rambling a little off track it is going to warm up again tomorrow so am going to take some time off from work and try to get it pressure tested and finish the painting I forgot to mention that I preheated the meatal before I welded it

Have a good evening all
Memco

 
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Post by gaw » Mon. Nov. 27, 2017 11:22 pm

Time to get'er done, you still have the car to finish up and paint.

 
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Post by CoalJockey » Tue. Nov. 28, 2017 5:38 am

MM

You could have fooled me, I never would have thought that was done with a 110 volt machine. Very nice.

One more thing and and I will let the thread get back on topic...just like you I would prefer 7018 rod over any wire machine, any day. I don’t know, wire has its advantages but for running vertices and overhead welds I really want the 7018. Very versatile to run on either AC or DC as well.

I run a 250 Miller MIG at the truck garage for convenience but there are days I wish I would have bought a stick/TIG combination unit instead. I still won’t rule that out in the future.


 
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Post by memco man » Tue. Nov. 28, 2017 8:38 pm

Good evening all this post is kind of hard to write I have to eat some humble pie :oops: no how much seasoning I put in it still taste like poo!!! I put a pressure test on the boiler and had a failure I had five pin holes in the welds on the tunnels one on the right side and four on the left side they were all on the boiler side it look like where I stopped and started it didn't penetrate quite enough I should had taken it to the shop and used a bigger welder so I guess that is what is going to happen I am going to take it over Friday night grind off the weld and re-weld it ,you know what they say if at first you don't succeed try,try again. in the mean time I can work on the burner
Gaw you are right I need to get this done the cold weather is coming and I don't have any boilers going yet I might end up putting a stove down in the basement if things keep going the way the have been that way I wont have to hook up the oil boiler. and yes I do have to get that car done

Take care all
Memco

 
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Post by memco man » Tue. Nov. 28, 2017 8:48 pm

CoalJockey the miller 250 is a really sweet welder I have had a chance to use one a few times I really liked it.

Take care
MM

 
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Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Tue. Nov. 28, 2017 9:44 pm

memco man wrote:
Tue. Nov. 28, 2017 8:38 pm
....where I stopped and started it didn't penetrate quite enough I should had taken it to the shop and used a bigger welder so I guess that is what is going to happen I am going to take it over Friday night grind off the weld and re-weld it ,you know what they say if at first you don't succeed try,try again.
When you mentioned using a 110 welder, I thought "I could never get proper penetration with that" But I am not a welder. I have one. I use it successfully. But about 80% of it is the welder, not 'this' welder, LOL.

I have a Lincoln PowerMIG 255xt and like it very much. When I need something tricky or very good I call my buddies who are certified welders for a living. They like it, too.

I don't know how you "real welders" would like it, but it was a huge step up from the old stick for this shadetree welder.

Good that you are going to grind it and reweld if not satisfied. There is a reason grinding discs come in packs ;) Good luck.

 
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Post by hotblast1357 » Wed. Nov. 29, 2017 5:24 am

One is either a professional welder, or professional grinder.... lol

Just picking!

Stop and starts are the hardest, I was always taught in school to never stop if it all possible, which is about the only advantage to a mig vs stick.

 
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Post by CoalJockey » Wed. Nov. 29, 2017 6:08 am

MM

You will get it, your no stranger to this stuff. Never mind that humble pie, you should see some of the things I’ve tried that crashed and burned in a ball of fire.

You know now what ya need to do, go get ‘er!

 
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Post by gaw » Fri. Dec. 01, 2017 6:50 am

Seeing that you have used Bondo that is pretty much the consistency of the cement for the grates. My first try I had something more like play dough and it did not adhere well, shrank, and came out causing air through the top edge and that is how I got fire back into the hopper base. After getting the correct stuff I had no problem. I think they have been sealed for 8 years or more without a problem and I expect many more years.

 
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Post by memco man » Fri. Dec. 01, 2017 10:06 am

Thank you gaw I have not worked on the boiler for a couple of days I have had to work on my car and my wife's the four wheel drive wasn't working on mine and she needed rear brakes. I am going to bring the boiler to the shop this afternoon and re-weld the tunnels I also thing that I will bring the burner and get that done as well I was wondering how the furnace cement would hold up and you answered that question thank you very much that will save me 280.00 bucks plus postage I will post some more pictures this weekend

Thank you and have a good weekend
MM Bill

 
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Post by StokerDon » Fri. Dec. 01, 2017 7:17 pm

Keystokers are similar to Yellow Flame stokers. The Yellow Flame has holes the full length of the grate. This can cause problems, it's a common practice to seal the first 4 rows holes near the hopper with furnace cement.
On this set I sealed off a few rows on the bottom of the grate to make it more like a newer Keystoker.
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The furnace cement is good to well over 2000 degrees. I've seen it in very old Yellow Flame grates and it was still intact and very difficult to get out.
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In French also!
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-Don


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