KA6 install help needed for self install noob
I am wiring a Honeywell zone valve, one to each of 2 electric furnaces with the heat exchangers I installed, and each having its own thermostat. For my Keystoker Ka6 do I need to wire the auxiliary switches back to the aquastat somewhere or can I just leave the auxiliary alone so when each stat calls for heat it just opens the valve and no need to go back to the aquastat? Thanks again everybody.
- Rob R.
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That depends. How are you planning to power the circulator? If you want to run it off the aquastat on the KA6, then yes - you need to bring the end switch from each zone valve to the TT terminals in the triple aquastat on the KA6.
If you are running the circulator all the time, or off a separate relay, you do not need to have the end switches hooked up - but you will need to keep the boiler at a steady temperature, since it won't be getting a heat call signal from the thermostats.
If you are running the circulator all the time, or off a separate relay, you do not need to have the end switches hooked up - but you will need to keep the boiler at a steady temperature, since it won't be getting a heat call signal from the thermostats.
- coaledsweat
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Call the manufacturer before you try that. The motor may not like variable speed.not2bad wrote: ↑Mon. Dec. 11, 2017 1:16 pmI bought a SWG-4HDs power vent because I don't have a chimney or stack. Does anyone know if you can use a rheostat because I can't tell if it has brushes or not. I bought one like this on ebay..
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Newest-For-Router-Fan-Va ... OSwEzxYd0T~
Yeah, the motor is shaded pole and brushless so I can't use it, but I bought one from Kb Industries and their application engineer I contated said it would work. I'm not planning on slowing it down to a crawl because it could stall and burn up. Just for some draft tweaking if needed..
- McGiever
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Yeah, that KB controller will not allow too low of a setting...it ain't no light dimmer.not2bad wrote: ↑Wed. Dec. 13, 2017 10:57 amYeah, the motor is shaded pole and brushless so I can't use it, but I bought one from Kb Industries and their application engineer I contated said it would work. I'm not planning on slowing it down to a crawl because it could stall and burn up. Just for some draft tweaking if needed..
So I will power the circulator off the 3250plus hydrostat on terminals c2&c1. There are just the 2 TT terminals and there are auxillary switch wires off each of each of the 2 Honeywell zone valves I am using goes to them. So do I need 4 wires to come back to the tt terminals, correct, or can I use a terminal block, or parallel the wires from the two switches somewhere and just run 2 wires back? Again I am using 2 air handlers. There will be 4 thermostats total. The two that I have now for electric coil heat and ac and then I am adding two T4 Pro stats that I will be using just for heating from the boiler. I was also wondering and don't see where the two 4006b connections in the bypass loop go to. Thanks.
- McGiever
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Can splice the 4 into 2 and just run the 2 wires to TT.
- McGiever
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Somebody else can answer that one...
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Tube will get inserted thru the door. There should be a screw plugging the hole in the upper right corner of the door. I used a short section of brake line. The tube will stay in all the time. IIRC keystoker recommends -.02wc