KA6 install help needed for self install noob

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Nov. 05, 2017 12:49 pm

If you can afford copper, go for it.


 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Sun. Nov. 05, 2017 12:53 pm

not2bad wrote:
Thu. Oct. 19, 2017 9:46 pm
Anyone have a preference circulating pump: single or 3 speed and/or make and model? I keep wondering if I need zone valves if I am coming off the 1-1/4 output line to furnace one heat exchanger just 2 feet from the feed and then continuing with 1 -1/4 to the second furnace plenum 13 feet away reducing down to 1" input at the heat exchanger at the plenum there?
ECM circulator and three zone valves would be my choice.

 
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David...
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Post by David... » Mon. Nov. 06, 2017 8:02 am

I have pex feeding my dump zone. No problems with it and 200° water.

David

 
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windyhill4.2
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Post by windyhill4.2 » Mon. Nov. 06, 2017 8:22 am

I have over 1000' of pex,in use since Sept 2006,mostly up to 180*,sometimes to 200*.

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Mon. Nov. 06, 2017 8:24 am

Well the stuff is rated for 200 degrees at 80 psi, so you’ll never have a problem running 200 degrees 24/7, the only time I think someone would have issues, is up past 230-240, depending on there pressures also. I wouldn’t want to run that high of a temp, but I also wouldn’t want any type of system at that heat.

 
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Post by not2bad » Mon. Nov. 06, 2017 8:32 am

That's good to know for future reference. What kind did you use?

 
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hotblast1357
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Post by hotblast1357 » Mon. Nov. 06, 2017 10:06 am

I purchase all my pex and fittings from

badgerinsulatedpipe.com

Great company and great customer service.


 
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Post by not2bad » Tue. Nov. 28, 2017 9:33 am

When installing a honeywell V8043 zone valve the instructions say not to use silver solder so what do you use? I took the top off ,ok, so would you continue and take the ball assembly out as well before you sweat, if so, is there a gasket or just leave it alone and make sure the ball isn't touching an sweat it? Thanks..












i

 
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Post by McGiever » Tue. Nov. 28, 2017 12:25 pm

lzaharis wrote:
Sun. Oct. 15, 2017 3:17 pm
Having a steel expansion tank and a closed system in my case with the KAA-4-1 saves me from having to worry about having to have a jet pump on hand or find a plumber with a jet pump to add water from a pail if I lose my water supply again as it cannot lose water unless there is a catastrophic failure like a boiler blow off AND also having to create system pressure in a heating loop plus having to bleed baseboard radiator.
:roll: PLEASE!...Worrying about the jet pump scenario, as you do, is not typical for the vast majority of people, so need to inflict that "black cloud" needlessly here.

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Tue. Nov. 28, 2017 2:27 pm

not2bad wrote:
Tue. Nov. 28, 2017 9:33 am
When installing a honeywell V8043 zone valve the instructions say not to use silver solder so what do you use? I took the top off ,ok, so would you continue and take the ball assembly out as well before you sweat, if so, is there a gasket or just leave it alone and make sure the ball isn't touching an sweat it? Thanks..
Regular 50/50 or 95/5 will work fine. Make sure the zone valve is in the manual open position when you solder it.

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Fri. Dec. 01, 2017 10:05 pm

Rob R. wrote:
Tue. Nov. 28, 2017 2:27 pm
If I need to use a lot of heat, like in a large and heavy valve, I will dip a rag in a bucket of water and wrap it around the valve stem/body, just back from where I need to solder- in addition to having the valve open.

Watch where your steam/heat goes and watch equally as much where your solder drips go.

Silver solder is too high heat, more likely to damage the valve.

Good luck!

 
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Rob R.
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Post by Rob R. » Fri. Dec. 01, 2017 10:07 pm

I do the same - that also works well whenever you are sweating multiple fittings in close proximity.

 
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CoalisCoolxWarm
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Post by CoalisCoolxWarm » Fri. Dec. 01, 2017 10:59 pm

Rob R. wrote:
Fri. Dec. 01, 2017 10:07 pm
I do the same - that also works well whenever you are sweating multiple fittings in close proximity.
Yep! Hot side up ;)

Also- wiping down solder and fittings afterwards keep neat and clean fittings and removes any leftover flux. I prefer the white, water-soluble paste. About the consistency of heavy whipping cream. Be sure to wipe off excess after soldering each joint.

And CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN inside and out solder areas and a little extra on the pipe with emery cloth. I also clean the very end of the fittings. I've had a few that if uncleaned would reject solder from the joint, preventing it from drawing into the joint. Just a couple of tips ;)

 
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Post by not2bad » Mon. Dec. 11, 2017 1:16 pm

I bought a SWG-4HDs power vent because I don't have a chimney or stack. Does anyone know if you can use a rheostat because I can't tell if it has brushes or not. I bought one like this on ebay..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Newest-For-Router-Fan-Va ... OSwEzxYd0T~

 
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Post by McGiever » Mon. Dec. 11, 2017 9:13 pm

not2bad wrote:
Mon. Dec. 11, 2017 1:16 pm
I bought a SWG-4HDs power vent because I don't have a chimney or stack. Does anyone know if you can use a rheostat because I can't tell if it has brushes or not. I bought one like this on ebay..

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Newest-For-Router-Fan-Va ... OSwEzxYd0T~
Nope, will NOT work...you have NO brushes in that style/model.

Try this: Solid-State-Variable-Speed-AC-Electric-Motor-Control


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