GJ/EFM Install....finally done
- skobydog
- Member
- Posts: 275
- Joined: Mon. Jun. 10, 2013 9:53 am
- Location: Greenfield MA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anthracite
This is my first ever boiler installation. I knew nothing about boilers two years ago and because of the people here I believe I pulled it off. I'm just a home owner who learning things like this. I could have made it simpler but at least it's done now.
I'm posting this because past installation threads really helped me. There have been a number of members here who have also helped so thanks again.
This was the final design. I spent a lot of time working this out and it changed many times while I was building it.
I used two moving dollies and two car floor jacks to roll the boiler into place. I moved this by myself and it worked. It almost tipped over once.
Had to put in an 8" flue. I used a diamond blade circular saw to get through the cinder block and a 4" diamond blade cut off wheel to get through the terra cotta liner. I've used hammer drills in the past but I found the cut off wheel much easier.
These were old 3/4" supply and return manifolds I scavenged from an older boiler. Everything worked so I cleaned them up with ketchup.
Building out the supply side. Paid attention to the 18" before the air scoop. I overbuilt this with (3) 1" supply and returns plus the (3) 3/4" supply/returns.
Front view with return lines mocked up.
Worked on the return manifold. The electrical was started. Painted the masonry wall too.
I added this picture. I read a post where someone said to install an overhead light. That made a world of difference with the rest of the install.
It's starting to look like I'm making progress here. The 3/4 manifolds were added from the scavenged boiler. Had to redo some of the copper pipe though. I used a few unions to remove the 3/4 manifolds if/when needed.
The tricky part of the piping was the hot air furnace duct above.
Wired the aquastat. Rather than wire the stoker and circulator directly I put ran wires to the junction box below so I can unplug either one and plug directly into the outlet nearby. Just have to remember not to mix them up.
Working on the water supply. What a waste of time trying to reuse 1/2" valves.
I was able to salvage the back flow and pressure reducing valves. Neither worked so I pulled them all apart and cleaned the insides. They worked after that.
Electrical done and the return is nearly complete.
All the black iron and copper work is completed. Next it's time to install pex......the color of the boiler looks different in this pic.
Pex install.
Color coded the circulator and stoker plugs with paint. That aquastat cover is wrong so bungee corded it on. Also have a barbque thermometer in the chimney stack and another thermometer to see what return temps are. Probably didn't need the purge/fill valve but it works well.
Circulator pump did not work initially. I found it in a junk pile at my oil friend's company. I pulled it apart and gave it a spin to free it up and it works. I like "free" when it comes to plumbing. Hopefully I can get a few seasons out of it.
Supply and Return complete. There's a 1" supply line with manual valve coming off the manifold that goes to my modine-style garage heater. I didn't want to spend an extra $150 putting in a zone valve and thermostat. Not many members here approved of it but for now it works. I'm only going to use when I'm working in there. I'll have to plug in the heater fan manually also when I use it.
Boiler install is completed.
I am still working on a coal bin and a delivery system to fill it.
I need to familiarize myself with air and tooth counts, hi lo settings on the aquastat, and the settings for my fan limit switch for the radiator in my furnace plenum.
I'm also playing with furnace fan settings to pull off enough heat from the radiator while keeping total external static pressure within furnace specs.
Overall this was a fun project. What I like best is that I know everything about this system and can now work on it. Thanks everyone for all your help.
I'm posting this because past installation threads really helped me. There have been a number of members here who have also helped so thanks again.
This was the final design. I spent a lot of time working this out and it changed many times while I was building it.
I used two moving dollies and two car floor jacks to roll the boiler into place. I moved this by myself and it worked. It almost tipped over once.
Had to put in an 8" flue. I used a diamond blade circular saw to get through the cinder block and a 4" diamond blade cut off wheel to get through the terra cotta liner. I've used hammer drills in the past but I found the cut off wheel much easier.
These were old 3/4" supply and return manifolds I scavenged from an older boiler. Everything worked so I cleaned them up with ketchup.
Building out the supply side. Paid attention to the 18" before the air scoop. I overbuilt this with (3) 1" supply and returns plus the (3) 3/4" supply/returns.
Front view with return lines mocked up.
Worked on the return manifold. The electrical was started. Painted the masonry wall too.
I added this picture. I read a post where someone said to install an overhead light. That made a world of difference with the rest of the install.
It's starting to look like I'm making progress here. The 3/4 manifolds were added from the scavenged boiler. Had to redo some of the copper pipe though. I used a few unions to remove the 3/4 manifolds if/when needed.
The tricky part of the piping was the hot air furnace duct above.
Wired the aquastat. Rather than wire the stoker and circulator directly I put ran wires to the junction box below so I can unplug either one and plug directly into the outlet nearby. Just have to remember not to mix them up.
Working on the water supply. What a waste of time trying to reuse 1/2" valves.
I was able to salvage the back flow and pressure reducing valves. Neither worked so I pulled them all apart and cleaned the insides. They worked after that.
Electrical done and the return is nearly complete.
All the black iron and copper work is completed. Next it's time to install pex......the color of the boiler looks different in this pic.
Pex install.
Color coded the circulator and stoker plugs with paint. That aquastat cover is wrong so bungee corded it on. Also have a barbque thermometer in the chimney stack and another thermometer to see what return temps are. Probably didn't need the purge/fill valve but it works well.
Circulator pump did not work initially. I found it in a junk pile at my oil friend's company. I pulled it apart and gave it a spin to free it up and it works. I like "free" when it comes to plumbing. Hopefully I can get a few seasons out of it.
Supply and Return complete. There's a 1" supply line with manual valve coming off the manifold that goes to my modine-style garage heater. I didn't want to spend an extra $150 putting in a zone valve and thermostat. Not many members here approved of it but for now it works. I'm only going to use when I'm working in there. I'll have to plug in the heater fan manually also when I use it.
Boiler install is completed.
I am still working on a coal bin and a delivery system to fill it.
I need to familiarize myself with air and tooth counts, hi lo settings on the aquastat, and the settings for my fan limit switch for the radiator in my furnace plenum.
I'm also playing with furnace fan settings to pull off enough heat from the radiator while keeping total external static pressure within furnace specs.
Overall this was a fun project. What I like best is that I know everything about this system and can now work on it. Thanks everyone for all your help.
- lsayre
- Member
- Posts: 21781
- Joined: Wed. Nov. 23, 2005 9:17 pm
- Location: Ohio
- Stoker Coal Boiler: AHS S130 Coal Gun
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- Other Heating: Resistance Boiler (13.5 KW), ComfortMax 75
The wait won't be too long. Winter seems to be right around the corner. Your install looks real nice!unhippy wrote:Nicely done......now you just have to wait for winter to hit so you can enjoy your hard work
- Rob R.
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- Location: Chazy, NY
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Looking good. The only changes I suggest are to replace the romex with armored cable, and to replace that piece of pex in the bypass with iron or copper. I am pretty sure armored able is required by code, and is a good idea regardless. Pex lengthens considerably when it gets hot, and does not support itself - although it would probably be fine, I would not feel great about the piece of pex next to the flue pipe...especially if the boiler overshoots the aquastat settings.
I would guess the stoker came to you with the feed already set...probably at 4 or 5 teeth, and the air around 4.5 - that will work fine for getting things fired up.
I would guess the stoker came to you with the feed already set...probably at 4 or 5 teeth, and the air around 4.5 - that will work fine for getting things fired up.
- skobydog
- Member
- Posts: 275
- Joined: Mon. Jun. 10, 2013 9:53 am
- Location: Greenfield MA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anthracite
I really do hate the cable I'm using for the circulator and stoker. That's an easy fix so I'll change that.Rob R. wrote:Looking good. The only changes I suggest are to replace the romex with armored cable, and to replace that piece of pex in the bypass with iron or copper. I am pretty sure armored able is required by code, and is a good idea regardless. Pex lengthens considerably when it gets hot, and does not support itself - although it would probably be fine, I would not feel great about the piece of pex next to the flue pipe...especially if the boiler overshoots the aquastat settings.
I would guess the stoker came to you with the feed already set...probably at 4 or 5 teeth, and the air around 4.5 - that will work fine for getting things fired up.
"pex next to the flue pipe".... I just measured the pipe. I think I can switch the pex and iron to have the pex on top of the boiler and the iron next to the flue pipe.
I'll try 4 or 5 teeth/ 4/5 air.
I'm not entirely sure what settings to start out with on the aquastat. I have it at 150 lo, 190 hi, 15 differential which is close to what I've been reading here.
- StokerDon
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- Coal Size/Type: Rice, Chestnut and whatever will fit through the door on the Harman
- Other Heating: Noth'in but COAL! Well, Maybe a little tiny bit of wood
Ah, so that's what you've been doing for the past few months. Can't wait to see a fire in its belly!
You might get some stink using just the short feed pipe into a bucket. A lid should take care of it though.
-Don
You might get some stink using just the short feed pipe into a bucket. A lid should take care of it though.
-Don
- Rob R.
- Site Moderator
- Posts: 18004
- Joined: Fri. Dec. 28, 2007 4:26 pm
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- Stoker Coal Boiler: EFM 520
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Chubby Jr
I am not a fan of using just the pot auger, but some guys make it work. Depends on your draft and how high the feed/air needs to be set. If you intend to feed it out of a drum, look for a 55 gallon drum with a lid.
- skobydog
- Member
- Posts: 275
- Joined: Mon. Jun. 10, 2013 9:53 am
- Location: Greenfield MA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anthracite
I have enough room for the longer auger.
I'm thinking of using a 250 gallon oil tank cut in half sideways for my coal bin. I'll have a couple of 55 gallon barrels and the other half of the 250 gallon tank for storage containers outside.
When it's time to refill I'll use my back hoe to lift storage containers into my truck, back the truck up to the bin, and use gravity to refill. I have to do some measurements before I cut my 250 gallon tank to make sure I'm not too high but something like this should work.
Anyone ever cut an oil tank in half?
I'm thinking of using a 250 gallon oil tank cut in half sideways for my coal bin. I'll have a couple of 55 gallon barrels and the other half of the 250 gallon tank for storage containers outside.
When it's time to refill I'll use my back hoe to lift storage containers into my truck, back the truck up to the bin, and use gravity to refill. I have to do some measurements before I cut my 250 gallon tank to make sure I'm not too high but something like this should work.
Anyone ever cut an oil tank in half?
-
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With plenty of overhead clearance, I used an oil tank on its end, with the other end cut off. Worked very well. Had small trap door under auger end to clear fines, etc. Obviously, need to get rid of all flammable residue before trying to cut tank.
Mike
Mike
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[quote
Anyone ever cut an oil tank in half?[/quote]
Many have cut oil tanks in half,and some have survived.Using a torch is very dangerous,because the oil residue will volatilize and explode,if you are not very careful.Removing oxygen by pumping auto exhaust in while cutting can help greatly with that method.Better and safer probably to use sawzall or reciprocating saw.You still should run exhaust gas in to remove oxygen,to be safe.Better to let someone experienced do the cutting maybe.
Anyone ever cut an oil tank in half?[/quote]
Many have cut oil tanks in half,and some have survived.Using a torch is very dangerous,because the oil residue will volatilize and explode,if you are not very careful.Removing oxygen by pumping auto exhaust in while cutting can help greatly with that method.Better and safer probably to use sawzall or reciprocating saw.You still should run exhaust gas in to remove oxygen,to be safe.Better to let someone experienced do the cutting maybe.
- skobydog
- Member
- Posts: 275
- Joined: Mon. Jun. 10, 2013 9:53 am
- Location: Greenfield MA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anthracite
Didn't realize it but just checked the tank. It's been sitting outside empty for over 6 months and is still filled with gasses.
When my friend was young he tried to dry out a gas tank from his car with a hair dryer......boom
Any guesses on minimal degree rice coal needs to flow downhill naturally through pvc pipe?
When my friend was young he tried to dry out a gas tank from his car with a hair dryer......boom
Any guesses on minimal degree rice coal needs to flow downhill naturally through pvc pipe?
-
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Bottled CO2 or Nitrogen...
Or water will also work...
The explosive VAPOR is what makes the big bang...
1oz of gasoline vaporized in a 5gal tote...
BOOM!
Or water will also work...
The explosive VAPOR is what makes the big bang...
1oz of gasoline vaporized in a 5gal tote...
BOOM!
- CoalJockey
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Why not on the PVC pipe???
I had a 3.5 ton storage bin in my garage for rice that I emptied probably 10 times over the years, 80% of that coal flowed through a single 4 inch piece of PVC pipe and into a 5 gallon bucket. Buckwheat would slide even better = less fines.
Likely a 45 degree angle or a pinch less.
I had a 3.5 ton storage bin in my garage for rice that I emptied probably 10 times over the years, 80% of that coal flowed through a single 4 inch piece of PVC pipe and into a 5 gallon bucket. Buckwheat would slide even better = less fines.
Likely a 45 degree angle or a pinch less.
- skobydog
- Member
- Posts: 275
- Joined: Mon. Jun. 10, 2013 9:53 am
- Location: Greenfield MA
- Hand Fed Coal Stove: Hitzer 50-93
- Coal Size/Type: Nut Anthracite
Between the height of truck bed and top of coal bin it will be hard I may be able to. Ill know bether when i have the bin in place..CoalJockey wrote:Why not on the PVC pipe???
Sawzall with a worn out blade. Sprayed water inside not sure it did anything. Went slow and cooled the blade down every 6 inches of cut. Faster blade speed was better but I chickened out and slowed it dow.
And that is a motorcycle helmet.
Basic idea...top of coal bin 35"......truck bed height 34 ".....just have have filling bin elevated a bit in back of truck.
.