Eshland S-260 Install

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Sun. Mar. 26, 2017 7:38 pm

So I have the eshland S260, I am putting up a modular home soon, 27'6"X 44' cathedral ceiling in living room and kitchen, with loft upstairs, full walk out basement. The house is coming with forced hot air which I am going to utilize with a water to air coil right away, and eventually put in radiant floor with the aluminum plates. I'm building a small building for the boiler, probably 12'x16'. roughly 80-100' away from the house, which will house the boiler and coal bin, stainless steel triple wall chimney, the garage will be built off from this building eventually. I want it out of the basement because of the dust, and noise of the boilers fan and motors, plus the room it would take up, and also the additional radiant heat from it that would more than likely over heat the house, and to ease any worry of the associated puff backs with these, and also for the future installation of ash auger removal and coal vac or coal auger feed. I am installing 1/1/4" pex pre-insulated in corrugated pipe, with a domestic water feed line also for the boiler fill valve, and a 110V power line for the building. I am thinking for the boiler room plumbing, coming off the boiler with the 1/1/2 black iron piping to a manifold, then branching off with a house zone, and future garage zone, the correct size pump on each zone. And also 1/1/2" return manifold. The pump on the house zone will be ran 24/7. I will run the 1/1/4" pex to and from the house, I am considering this zone to be primary/secondary plumbing once inside the basement, first will be the water to air exchanger coil, then an direct water heater, each of those with a pump on each. Circulating only on demand, and I will have a third zone, for the future zone of in floor heat throughout the entire home. I will also add a forth zone and cap it, just for any additional zoning later on. As far as the garage zone, I do not know what I am doing yet, will ether be radiant in floor heat in concrete or modines, but I will simply cap off that zone in the boiler building for now.

As far as gadgets and what not, in a 4" PVC I am pulling through a Ethernet cable maybe??, and also some t'stat sensing wires, for any communication or anything between the basement and boiler room. And also leaving a string in it for future pulling of any wires.

Something like this for monitoring temps from inside the house.
http://www.houseneeds.com/heating/hydronic-heat-supplies/azel-digital-temperature-gauge-sensor-probes-ds-60p

Thoughts/ comments/ questions?

Thanks in advance!

windyhill4.2 · Post by **windyhill4.2** » Sun. Mar. 26, 2017 8:16 pm

The underground pex will be in what size pipe ? Insulated how ? wrapped or foam ? It is almost impossible to over-insulate underground pex,it might be a good idea to foam the pipe in the ditch ,much easier b4 the ditch is closed.

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Sun. Mar. 26, 2017 9:01 pm

It's in 5" pipe with 5 wrap insulation. Thanks for the info, if it was longer than 100' I would deff look into more insulation.

Post by **Rob R.** » Mon. Mar. 27, 2017 6:37 am

It is almost impossible to over-insulate underground pex,it might be a good idea to foam the pipe in the ditch ,much easier b4 the ditch is closed.

I agree with David. Extra insulation on that pipe will pay you back every day.

hotblast1357 wrote:with a domestic water feed line also for the boiler fill valve,

I would put the fill valve, expansion tank, circulator, etc all in the basement of the house.

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Mon. Mar. 27, 2017 6:51 am

Ok that can all go in the basement, I wanted it to but thought it would have to go near the boiler,, what about the future garage zone circulator? In the garage or off the boiler?

waldo lemieux · Post by **waldo lemieux** » Mon. Mar. 27, 2017 7:30 am

I have read about numerous installations with problems caused by long distance underground runs, undersized pipe, substandard insulation and lack of proper wiring in the ditch. yes you can pump water for miles just make sure our not doing so unnecessarily... Id opt for all the insulation you can afford, you can add all the bells and whistles later, theyre above ground. send alond some photos as you have them...good luck

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Mon. Mar. 27, 2017 8:17 am

Thanks! Of coarse there will be plenty of pics as it goes!

windyhill4.2 · Post by **windyhill4.2** » Mon. Mar. 27, 2017 8:32 am

hotblast1357 wrote:It's in 5" pipe with 5 wrap insulation. Thanks for the info, if it was longer than 100' I would deff look into more insulation.

For my house & my shop,we actually wrapped the pex ourselves with a "bubble wrap",it looks like styrofoam that is flexible. 1 yr later we moved a trailer in for the inlaws & I bought pre-insulated pex in a corrugated pipe. I can actually easily find a melt line with the pre-done stuff but have a hard time to find a melt line on our homemade runs. Someday I may dig the pex ditches open & foam them. Actually if I were to do it all over again,i would put an 8" conduit in the ditch(surrounded by foam) to pull the pex filled pipe thru,then if any future problem arises there would be no need to dig,just pull the inner pipe out.

Post by **Rob R.** » Mon. Mar. 27, 2017 1:04 pm

Make sure the pex is not in an area that is wet. If you need to install some drainage to keep the water away from it, do it.

I would also add a small piece of electrical conduit, so you can pull wire if needed.

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Mon. Mar. 27, 2017 5:21 pm

Rob R. wrote:Make sure the pex is not in an area that is wet. If you need to install some drainage to keep the water away from it, do it.

I would also add a small piece of electrical conduit, so you can pull wire if needed.

it will be 4' down, buried in high compaction sand, with no water issue, I am planning on putting in a 2" pvc pipe for any electrical and sensing wires.

Post by **coaledsweat** » Mon. Mar. 27, 2017 5:32 pm

Keep the power seperate from the data if you can and run two different conduits would be my recommendation.

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Mon. Mar. 27, 2017 5:34 pm

at roughly $100 per run, I can probably run two 2" pvc runs to the boiler shed.

Post by **coaledsweat** » Mon. Mar. 27, 2017 5:43 pm

Cheap insurance, you want good info coming down the pipe.

waldo lemieux · Post by **waldo lemieux** » Mon. Mar. 27, 2017 8:43 pm

hotblast1357 wrote: buried in high compaction sand,

Sand is the last thing Id use. /air between the individual grains is an insulator. With sand, there is almost none. Washed #2 native (not crushed)stone has lots of air spaces and will give you free insulation. It will not absorb ground moisture like sand. Honest....

hotblast1357 · Post by **hotblast1357** » Tue. Mar. 28, 2017 2:21 am

Well then that's what I'll use then!