Need Some Boiler Help...Choices
- LsFarm
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Hello Bob,, when or if you make that coal hopper,, leave a 'sump' under the auger's location.. you want an area below the auger for the 'fines' in the coal to collect and not choke the auger. If you can, make this 'sump' such that it can be accessed to clean out the end of the auger just in case it gets jammed with a chunk of rock or wood in the coal.
The EFM 520 auger is not adjustable.. the EFM website still shows an EFM 700 or 900 model that is no longer available..it has a right angle auger that is adjustable. The EFM 520 auger pulls the coal from the hopper into the bottom of the burn pot,, from the opposite side from the motor/gearbox/fan assembly.
Greg L
The EFM 520 auger is not adjustable.. the EFM website still shows an EFM 700 or 900 model that is no longer available..it has a right angle auger that is adjustable. The EFM 520 auger pulls the coal from the hopper into the bottom of the burn pot,, from the opposite side from the motor/gearbox/fan assembly.
Greg L
- stoker-man
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I can't find it.the EFM website still shows an EFM 700 or 900 model that is no longer available.
- coaledsweat
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http://www.efmheating.com/manuals/Stoker%20Manual.pdfstoker-man wrote:I can't find it.the EFM website still shows an EFM 700 or 900 model that is no longer available.
- stoker-man
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Didn't see that before
You can still buy a new 900, when the are available. Production is very limited.
You can still buy a new 900, when the are available. Production is very limited.
- LsFarm
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Got a price for a EFM 900?? I thought the sidewinder auger units were discontinued.. only used ones available.stoker-man wrote:Didn't see that before
You can still buy a new 900, when the are available. Production is very limited.
Greg L.
Greg,
Thanks tons for the info......
Naturally, since I don't have the unit right now, I can only speculate, but your advice, as well as others, sure helps regarding the pitfalls. The stainless steel sheet lining that I plan on using provides a slippery, corrosion free (mostly) surface which the coal can't readily stick to. Leaving an open area below the auger, and possibly lining that with stainless as well, I'm sure I can reduce, or eliminate any possible jamming issues once I get the unit to study it.
I've also looked over the Coal-Trol electronics to better utilize the use of coal (made in my childhood town Syracuse, NY).........I'm so sick of fuel oil price instability, and the monies I've had to pay over the last several years, I wish I'd never have built the system I have now utilizing oil. The beauty of it all is that it is a hot water baseboard system, and is easily converted to coal. Doing the math, on the first year/season alone, I will be saving at least $2800 with coal, and that is considering current oil prices ($4.67 p/gal), which obviously won't stay put.
With the monies I've put aside so far, (hard to do when buying fuel oil right now) I can opt for either the Harman or Keystoker new, or pick up an EFM unit used.
We'll see how it goes.....& thanks
Bob
Thanks tons for the info......
Naturally, since I don't have the unit right now, I can only speculate, but your advice, as well as others, sure helps regarding the pitfalls. The stainless steel sheet lining that I plan on using provides a slippery, corrosion free (mostly) surface which the coal can't readily stick to. Leaving an open area below the auger, and possibly lining that with stainless as well, I'm sure I can reduce, or eliminate any possible jamming issues once I get the unit to study it.
I've also looked over the Coal-Trol electronics to better utilize the use of coal (made in my childhood town Syracuse, NY).........I'm so sick of fuel oil price instability, and the monies I've had to pay over the last several years, I wish I'd never have built the system I have now utilizing oil. The beauty of it all is that it is a hot water baseboard system, and is easily converted to coal. Doing the math, on the first year/season alone, I will be saving at least $2800 with coal, and that is considering current oil prices ($4.67 p/gal), which obviously won't stay put.
With the monies I've put aside so far, (hard to do when buying fuel oil right now) I can opt for either the Harman or Keystoker new, or pick up an EFM unit used.
We'll see how it goes.....& thanks
Bob
- stoker-man
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greg, contact:
Anczarski Enterprises 230 S. Main St. Shenandoah, PA 17976 (570) 462-0748
Anczarski Enterprises 230 S. Main St. Shenandoah, PA 17976 (570) 462-0748
- coal berner
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Greg I know where you can get a 700 Right Now if you want itLsFarm wrote:Got a price for a EFM 900?? I thought the sidewinder auger units were discontinued.. only used ones available.stoker-man wrote:Didn't see that before
You can still buy a new 900, when the are available. Production is very limited.
Greg L.
- coal berner
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Some one Needs a Tme out to study there Homework Now go sit in the corner and do your Homeworkstoker-man wrote:Didn't see that before
You can still buy a new 900, when the are available. Production is very limited.
http://www.efmheating.com/manuals.html
- stoker-man
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- Hand Fed Coal Boiler: 1981 efm wcb-24 in use 365 days a year
- Coal Size/Type: Anthracite/Chestnut
- Other Heating: Hearthstone wood stove
Yeah, I know. I'm going to have to have the name of the link changed.
I just got off the phone with "scrapper's wife, Ann.
Boy that lady knows her stuff.........!
Although she wasn't into the electric part of the boiler's workings, she knew her BTU rating's and applications, as well as the innerworkings of the EFM's.......with as little as I know of the whole area, I was greatly impressed.
Anyway, she assessed that I could do fine with a EF350 (1700 sq. ft.) rather than the 520 I was talking to scrapper about originally. And I guess they are more common as far as "used", or refurb's. Overall, it'd be far more efficient than the bigger unit, running in the middle rather than more towards an idle on the bigger boiler.
Take care,
Bob
Boy that lady knows her stuff.........!
Although she wasn't into the electric part of the boiler's workings, she knew her BTU rating's and applications, as well as the innerworkings of the EFM's.......with as little as I know of the whole area, I was greatly impressed.
Anyway, she assessed that I could do fine with a EF350 (1700 sq. ft.) rather than the 520 I was talking to scrapper about originally. And I guess they are more common as far as "used", or refurb's. Overall, it'd be far more efficient than the bigger unit, running in the middle rather than more towards an idle on the bigger boiler.
Take care,
Bob
- Highlander
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Hello Bob
Since no one has stood up for the Harman, let me be the first, it is a very well built machine, I don't think you should worry about it breaking down. The boiler itself is 1/4" steel plate, most of the welds are machine made, very high quality. The plates look to be cut with a CNC plasma cutter. The water jacket is braced with what looks like 1/2" steel dowels. The unit weighs 960# so its no lightweight. The base is seperate from the boiler weldment so it can be configured for left or right hand flu. There are 8 schedule 80 2" pipes across the top of the firebox and a water wall between the fire and the flu pipe which is very low, so most of the heat is transfered to the water and retained in the boiler. Harman is the only manufacturer to provide a means to knock off fly ash from the interior heat transfer surfaces with an external cleanout rod.
The stoker itself is very robust, and uses a Dayton Gear motor with needle bearings driving a large aluminum pusher block, on a pivot supported by large bronze bushing which can be lubricated. Its kind of a cross between an underfed stoker like an EFM and a bed stoker like the Keystokers. Coal is pushed up into the fire so there is much less of a chance of the fire burning its way back into the coal hopper.
If your house isn't that large, the Harman should be large enough to do the job. Its rated at 95K, which is a bit optomistic, I figure its more comfortable in the 80 to 90K range. It can be had with an oil burner, it replaces the access door with one with a Wayne Blue angel gun rated at .75 gph.
As far as Harman's service goes, its true that you can't contact Harman directly, all service inquiries have to be through a Harman dealer. My dealer has been good to deal with, on a positive note, Harman doesn't rip you off with replacement parts, What they charge for a replacment stoker motor is about what Grainger sells the same motor for. I would suggest buying from a dealer whom you'd be comfortable going for service from, someone who knows what he is selling.
I was faced with a similar situation, had a budget I wanted to stay within, ended up going with the Harman, no regrets.
Good luck with your decision.
Bill A.
Since no one has stood up for the Harman, let me be the first, it is a very well built machine, I don't think you should worry about it breaking down. The boiler itself is 1/4" steel plate, most of the welds are machine made, very high quality. The plates look to be cut with a CNC plasma cutter. The water jacket is braced with what looks like 1/2" steel dowels. The unit weighs 960# so its no lightweight. The base is seperate from the boiler weldment so it can be configured for left or right hand flu. There are 8 schedule 80 2" pipes across the top of the firebox and a water wall between the fire and the flu pipe which is very low, so most of the heat is transfered to the water and retained in the boiler. Harman is the only manufacturer to provide a means to knock off fly ash from the interior heat transfer surfaces with an external cleanout rod.
The stoker itself is very robust, and uses a Dayton Gear motor with needle bearings driving a large aluminum pusher block, on a pivot supported by large bronze bushing which can be lubricated. Its kind of a cross between an underfed stoker like an EFM and a bed stoker like the Keystokers. Coal is pushed up into the fire so there is much less of a chance of the fire burning its way back into the coal hopper.
If your house isn't that large, the Harman should be large enough to do the job. Its rated at 95K, which is a bit optomistic, I figure its more comfortable in the 80 to 90K range. It can be had with an oil burner, it replaces the access door with one with a Wayne Blue angel gun rated at .75 gph.
As far as Harman's service goes, its true that you can't contact Harman directly, all service inquiries have to be through a Harman dealer. My dealer has been good to deal with, on a positive note, Harman doesn't rip you off with replacement parts, What they charge for a replacment stoker motor is about what Grainger sells the same motor for. I would suggest buying from a dealer whom you'd be comfortable going for service from, someone who knows what he is selling.
I was faced with a similar situation, had a budget I wanted to stay within, ended up going with the Harman, no regrets.
Good luck with your decision.
Bill A.
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Highlander, I was curious as to how many sq ft you are heating with your Harmon?
Thanks Bill....
I appreciate the thorough description on the Harman. I haven't totally counted it out just yet. My only problem with the Harman's is that they more or less force you to stay "dealer specific" through their policy.
This kind of screws you up if you find one dealer that's selling the Harman you want for much less, then you buy it, only to find that you have to deal through that same dealer throughout the time that you own/service the furnace. If it's close by, no problem........but if the best deal on the boiler takes you a few hours from home, and you buy it, now your stuck. The other dealers, more times than not, won't touch it because you didn't buy it from them.
If Harman insist's on keeping this policy, they should create a standard pricing list as far as dealer's are concerned. I've seen prices listed on the forum from an average of $4500 on down to $3500 for the same boiler (VF3000). That's a wide margin. The $3500 price that was listed by a forum member was over in NH....probably a good 6-8hrs. from me. Although it's a considerable drive, I most likely would've made the trip to get one, and still saving a good chunk of the $1000 after the gas & tolls......only to find out that I more than likely wouldn't have a service rep. if I needed one.
On another note.....I spoke with a forum member last night and found that unless Harman does the install, the warranty isn't valid.........that's a huge detractor. That policy alone would keep a large portion of prospective customers from buying, obviously.
I have to do some serious research regarding Harman, like maybe a call to their information line to verify these questions. I know the purchase and service issues are correct, as I spoke to their rep.'s......if the warranty/installation issue is correct, then I would drop them like "a hot potato" from consideration. I was raised having an uncle that was an old school plumber, and I had the opportunity to work with him many. many times during my summer vacations as a kid. After seeing what the local plumber's (who are also Harman installers) have done, it leaves a lot to be desired. In most cases, my son could do better/cleaner installs.
Again, thank you...I appreciate your help & I will check into it.
Bob
I appreciate the thorough description on the Harman. I haven't totally counted it out just yet. My only problem with the Harman's is that they more or less force you to stay "dealer specific" through their policy.
This kind of screws you up if you find one dealer that's selling the Harman you want for much less, then you buy it, only to find that you have to deal through that same dealer throughout the time that you own/service the furnace. If it's close by, no problem........but if the best deal on the boiler takes you a few hours from home, and you buy it, now your stuck. The other dealers, more times than not, won't touch it because you didn't buy it from them.
If Harman insist's on keeping this policy, they should create a standard pricing list as far as dealer's are concerned. I've seen prices listed on the forum from an average of $4500 on down to $3500 for the same boiler (VF3000). That's a wide margin. The $3500 price that was listed by a forum member was over in NH....probably a good 6-8hrs. from me. Although it's a considerable drive, I most likely would've made the trip to get one, and still saving a good chunk of the $1000 after the gas & tolls......only to find out that I more than likely wouldn't have a service rep. if I needed one.
On another note.....I spoke with a forum member last night and found that unless Harman does the install, the warranty isn't valid.........that's a huge detractor. That policy alone would keep a large portion of prospective customers from buying, obviously.
I have to do some serious research regarding Harman, like maybe a call to their information line to verify these questions. I know the purchase and service issues are correct, as I spoke to their rep.'s......if the warranty/installation issue is correct, then I would drop them like "a hot potato" from consideration. I was raised having an uncle that was an old school plumber, and I had the opportunity to work with him many. many times during my summer vacations as a kid. After seeing what the local plumber's (who are also Harman installers) have done, it leaves a lot to be desired. In most cases, my son could do better/cleaner installs.
Again, thank you...I appreciate your help & I will check into it.
Bob
Last edited by bmac on Fri. May. 30, 2008 8:20 am, edited 1 time in total.